# Starter Signal Problem - 1994 Honda Accord LX 2.2L

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/starter-signal-problem-1994-honda-accord-lx-2-2l/54810>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** relay, starters, stall, start, accord, honda\
**Created:** [September 8, 2010, 11:34am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/starter-signal-problem-1994-honda-accord-lx-2-2l/54810 "2010-09-08T11:34:03Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 3\
**Page:** 2

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**Author:** ![Cougar](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cougar/32/21348_2.png) [@Cougar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cougar)\
**Post date:** [September 10, 2010, 4:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/starter-signal-problem-1994-honda-accord-lx-2-2l/54810/21 "2010-09-10T16:03:47Z")

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If pins A7 and A8 are tied together internally inside the ECU I don’t see how you could have continuity to pin 1 of the relay on one pin and not the other. That doesn’t make sense to me. If there is a grn/blk wire on pin A7 and pin 1 of the relay and they don’t show connection to each other by testing then run a seperate jumper between them and then see if the pump works.

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**Author:** ![natedbrbr](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/47e85d/32.png) [@natedbrbr](https://community.cartalk.com/u/natedbrbr)\
**Post date:** [September 10, 2010, 4:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/starter-signal-problem-1994-honda-accord-lx-2-2l/54810/22 "2010-09-10T16:12:24Z")

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Yeah it weirded me out that I got continuity on one and not the other. I’ll try jumping it and see what happens.

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**Author:** ![natedbrbr](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/47e85d/32.png) [@natedbrbr](https://community.cartalk.com/u/natedbrbr)\
**Post date:** [September 12, 2010, 3:23pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/starter-signal-problem-1994-honda-accord-lx-2-2l/54810/23 "2010-09-12T15:23:18Z")

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So I finally had time to test the continuity between A7 and the green/black wire on the main relay and was able to get continuity this time (had to test it from the back of the ECU connector). I then finished the voltage tests and the A7 to A23 test showed .02 volts which is the proper range). The interesting thing was when I turned the ignition on to test the voltage there I heard the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds so I cranked it and it fired right up. Pulled the testing leads out from the back of the ECU connector and it fired up again. I think I might just have had a loose connection at the ECU harness and pushing the test lead in there pushed it back in where it should have been. Crazy stuff!

I’m cautiously optimistic that I can start driving it for the next couple weeks and keep something handy for pushing that connector back in if it should work its way loose!

I also noticed when I opened up the ECU that it had a couple leaky capacitors…as long as it’s running fine I’m not going to concern myself too much with it but I may keep an eye out for a used ECU on ebay just to keep around as a backup in case the circuit board deteriorates.

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