Look at page 1-5 in the owners manual.
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
http://cdn.dealereprocess.com/cdn/servicemanuals/hyundai/2011-sonata.pdf
They state that you follow the same procedures when first driving your car as if the engine had just been rebuilt.
Did you follow these procedures?
Because if you didn’t, that’s how an engine ends up being an oil burner.
The rings don’t seat properly to the cylinders.
Tester
PCV valve if it has one might be worth checking. A compression test also could reveal issues.
Nevada 545: Thank you for the link but I have never let my engine get down even to the L marker on the oil stick. I certainly hope it will not seize. Anyone who lets it run out of oil does not have any basis for complaint as that wrecks any engine.
Testor: Thank you for the pointers. I think I followed break-in procedure…as I have always been careful to do so with all my new cars. This is my first Hyundai. I did not have the recall issue with the steering problem. My friend had a leased Sonata that almost got him killed as he could not steer it on the highway. The leasing agent had not checked the recall problem.
There is no “think”.
Either you did or you didn’t.
Tester
I’m not suggesting that your engine will run out of oil due to neglect and seize like the others, just showing that oil consumption seems to be a common problem with that car.
One quart oil per 1500 miles is in the normal range for newer cars. I wouldn’t worry about it. Just remember to check your oil every 1000 miles and top it off if needed between changes.
One more thing, it’s extremely important on new cars like this, which probably has variable valve timing, to only use the exact oil meeting the specs the manufacturer recommends. The valve timing mechanisms in the cylinder head aren’t forgiving at all. B/c of the known problems mentioned above about this car, suggest you pay a visit to a dealership shop and ask them what’s the best brand and type of oil and filter to use. And stick to using only those going forward.
I don’t understand why everyone is discussing this engine as if it’s an oil burner. It isn’t. It is well within the normal distribution curve for oil usage in an engine of that mileage.
A word to the OP: engines don’t seize because they burn oil; they seize because they run low on oil. Yours is in no danger of seizing. You are a good custodian of your engine.
They way it works is this: The oil pump draws oil up from the pan of oil (called the oil pan)through a straw (called a “pickup tube”) and pushes it under pressure through channels in the crankshaft and camshaft(s). It’s forced under pressure through these channels and between the bearing surfaces and the corresponding wear surfaces on the crank/cam, creating a pressurized oil film between the surfaces. If the oil is allowed to run low enough that the pool of oil in the pan goes below the end of the “pickup tube”, the pump draws only air and the bearings lose their pressurized barrier. They then rub and bang against one another, transferring material and ultimately seizing. Remember that the parts are spinning at thousands of revolutions per minute.
As long as the pumps’ 'pickup tube" is submersed in oil, the pump maintains a constant stream of pressurized lubricant and nothing seizes.
There are rare cases where other conditions such as severe overheating that can begin a chain of events that can result in seizure, but I don’t see any reason to believe they’re relevant here. Your oil usage is well within the normal range and you’re monitoring the oil level and (I assume) the engine’s other critical fluids. Keep these good practices up and you can expect a long reliable engine life.
I agree with those above who say you do not have problem here. You are seeing the need to be vigilant about oil level and using the oil grade and the intervals that your carmaker recommends.
You don’t have a problem yet. These cars are known to have engine problems, there are 118 complaints filed for engine problems with the NHTSA. How much oil did this vehicle consume last year compared to this year?
If consumption increases to 1 quart per 1,000 miles will that be normal?
I’m fairly confident that the vast majority of new car buyers do NOT follow the break in procedure you mentioned
And I’m fairly confident that the vast majority of engines . . . of modern design . . . that are not broken in according to that procedure do NOT wind up being oil burners
Here’s an opinion I have. I believe the engines that are notorious oil burners . . . european designs come to mind . . . are doing so because they are just a lousy design. In regards to oil consumption. I think some engine designs are destined to guzzle oil, no mater how they were maintained and/or broken, and no matter who is using them.
My current car had 62K when I bought it used. The previous owner was a young college student. I think daddy bought the car. It does not use any oil between oil changes. The car had some cheapo brake pads and wipers on it when I bought it. And it had a Costco battery. That makes me think it probably wasn’t maintained meticulously. And I’m also going to assume the engine wasn’t properly broken in.
If I’m interpreting you correctly, I should be thanking my lucky stars that my engine is not an oil burner . . . ?
With all due respect, I think you may be putting a little too much emphasis on the engine break in procedure
Why do you come after me?
This is what Hyundai states in the owners manual.
I didn’t build the vehicle nor did I write the specifications.
Tester
I’m not “coming after” you
I just don’t agree with you
“Did you follow these procedures?”
“Because if you didn’t, that’s how an engine ends up being an oil burner.”
That is what I disagree with you about. Because, as I stated earlier, I believe the vast majority of new car buyers don’t follow those procedures.
What I say next is not meant to be a blanket statement . . .
I believe a very significant percentage of engines that consume excessive oil, do it because of the particular engine design, not because of how it was broken in, who maintained it, how it was driven, etc.
I say that based on personal/professional experience
5W30 is the proper oil for this car, The OP said it uses between 1/2 and one quart of oil per 1500 miles. That is 100 per cent difference in the amount of oil burned. Do you check your oil level right after you have your oil changed? I would not be thrilled by 1500 miles per quart but it is not something that needs fixing.
If you are using the “normal” usage intervals for oil changes there is both a tine and mileage basis. Do not exceed the time basis even if you have not reached the mileage. If you do a lot of short trips, gasoline, water and acid accumulate in the crankcase and dilute the oil which causes burning. If this is what is happening you should be on the severe service oil change interval.
Have someone watch the tailpipe when starting and ALSO follow you for a few miles and see if/when it smokes. It means different things if there is oil smoke when you are accelerating and also when you get off the gas. Rocketman
I kind of sort of agree with DB except that I do not consider the amount of oil used by the subject vehicle excessive.
The part I agree with is that the amount of oil used by a healthy engine is highly dependent upon the engine’s design. As the engine ages, maintenance becomes a more and more major component of the root cause, but to me it’s much like the “nature vs. nurture” debate. Much of what an engine will become comes from the manufacturer, and it becomes more affected by the maintenance as the miles build up.
I offer as the ultimate example the rotary engine. Oil burning is an inherent weakness of the design. Mazda simply could never get the apexes to seal as well as piston rings. It was a great concept and a ripping good engine, but that was an inherent weakness.
My 2010 Kia 2.4L uses zero oil between changes. Of course 35,000 miles on the odometer could be a contributing factor. I just used the standard common sense break-in. Avoid extended idling/constant speed driving, and high RPMs for the first 600 miles.
A quart of oil every 1500 miles is considered NORMAL oil consumption by virtually ALL car manufacturers…Worry about something else…
I too don’t believe how the car was driven during break-in led to this oil consumption.
Hyundai’s owner’s manual has this wording for break-in:
No special break-in period is needed. By
following a few simple precautions for the
first 600 miles (1,000 km) you may add to
the performance, economy and life of
your vehicle.While I too would be a little unhappy with a quart every 1500 miles, it’s within what the manufacturer deems acceptable. So I’d live with it and move on.
2.0L or 2.4L Engine?
Hyundai Has Announced A Recall Of Nearly A Half-Million 2.0L and 2.4L 2011 & 2012 Sonatas For Inspection Of Possible Engine Rod Bearing Problems. They Will Possibly Be Replacing Some Engines In Vehicles Not Passing Inspection. Plans To Extend Engine Warranty Coverage Is Part Of The Recall.
Owners will be notified November 2, 2015.
CSA