# Shimmy

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/shimmy/82584>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** tacoma, toyota\
**Created:** [December 8, 2013, 6:15pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/shimmy/82584 "2013-12-08T18:15:57Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 7\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![rodznokkin](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a88e4f/32.png) [@rodznokkin](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rodznokkin)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2013, 6:15pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/shimmy/82584/1 "2013-12-08T18:15:57Z")

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My 1987 Toyota motorhome has an inconsistent shimmy which starts between 47 and 55 mph. This is a one ton chassis. I replaced the front tires and had them balanced.  
An independent mechanic said that everything was tight and could not find the problem. I took it to Toyota and they also said everything was tight. They checked steering, suspension, wheel bearings, brakes, and U joints. When the shimmy starts, accelerating or decelerating does not stop the shimmy.  
At one time I took it rapidly from 55mph down to a full stop. As I slowed the shimmy and thumping got more intense all the way down to a dead stop.  
The shimmy will start on smooth, even pavement and hitting bumps does NOT seem to start the shimmy.  
The RV has 75000 miles on it.

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**Author:** ![knfenimore](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/9fc348/32.png) [@knfenimore](https://community.cartalk.com/u/knfenimore)\
**Post date:** [December 8, 2013, 8:36pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/shimmy/82584/2 "2013-12-08T20:36:17Z")

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You replaced the front tires, but not the back. Try rotating the tires and see if the shimmy changes. It could be a tire separating internally, bent rim, or warped rotor. Debris behind the rotor and incorrectly torqued lugs could do it to.

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**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\
**Post date:** [December 9, 2013, 12:35am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/shimmy/82584/3 "2013-12-09T00:35:16Z")

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Maybe the rear axle IS the problem. See the attached article. The rear axles were overloaded on early trucks and were only fixed “after 1987” per the article.

> **[The Deadly Secret That Lurks in the Early Toyota Motor Homes](http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Deadly-Secret-That-Lurks-in-the-Early-Toyota-Motor-Homes&id=4065393)**
>
> Even though the Toyota motor home had a loyal and dedicated following, there was a deadly secret built into the early models. This article will expose that secret and inform you how to avoid the consequences.

The vibration may be a hint your rear axle is about to fail. You might want to check it out in any case.

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**Author:** ![rodznokkin](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a88e4f/32.png) [@rodznokkin](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rodznokkin)\
**Post date:** [December 9, 2013, 3:23am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/shimmy/82584/4 "2013-12-09T03:23:49Z")

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Mustangman;  
You are quite accurate about the Toyota history just as I am aware. That’s why I bought this Toyota MH which has the upgraded one ton axle, i.e., six lug. I am quite confident that the problem is not with the axle or rear wheel bearings. That’s why I mentioned that it was on a one ton chassis.  
I feel like my problem is coming from the front; steering/axle/suspension/brakes.

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**Author:** ![rodznokkin](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a88e4f/32.png) [@rodznokkin](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rodznokkin)\
**Post date:** [December 9, 2013, 3:39am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/shimmy/82584/5 "2013-12-09T03:39:47Z")

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knfenimore,  
I really don’t think it’s a ply separation since the problem was on both the old and the new tires.  
The new tires are Yokohamas, made in Japan too. I might more likely expect a ply separation on new tires made in China or some off brand cheapies.  
Bent wheel might be a possibility but the tire installer said that the wheel was good.  
Warped rotor or debris sounds like a good possibility. When making my hard stop from 55mph, the thumping/shimmy increased along with louder thumping in the brake pedal. I could actually feel the thumping in the brake pedal. HOWEVER, when otherwise stopping (without the shimmy) the braking action is very smooth. If it was a warped rotor, wouldn’t it pulse every time when braking?  
Maybe you can see why I am so stumped on this one. Any new ideas with this additional info?  
Can lug torque be that critical?

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**Author:** ![keith](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/keith/32/5518_2.png) [@keith](https://community.cartalk.com/u/keith)\
**Post date:** [December 9, 2013, 3:45am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/shimmy/82584/6 "2013-12-09T03:45:25Z")

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Lay down in front of the vehicle and have someone move the steering wheel back and forth about an 1/8th to 1/4th turn each way. Look at every joint and component for a looseness. If something needs attention, you will see it.

If these have struts in front, I don’t think they do but if they do, I would also look at the upper strut mount, but unfortunately you have to remove it to see if it is cracked.

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**Author:** ![CapriRacer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/capriracer/32/22_2.png) [@CapriRacer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/CapriRacer)\
**Post date:** [December 9, 2013, 4:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/shimmy/82584/7 "2013-12-09T16:32:28Z")

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This may be related to the dreaded Jeep death wobble - which seems to occur due to worn components and frequently those components are missed in inspection.

I vote for having someone else look at the front end parts - keeping in mind that what might be considered normal wear for some vehicles, might be excessive for this one.
