# Security light and no start **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [January 25, 2016, 12:51pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347 "2016-01-25T12:51:28Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 12\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Vernon\_M](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/57b2e6/32.png) [@Vernon\_M](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Vernon_M)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 12:51pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/1 "2016-01-25T12:51:28Z")
i have a 93 firebird. it has a new engine ,starter and battery. fuse under hood is good. turn switch lights work as usual . any ideas??? ---
**Author:** ![missileman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/missileman/32/1366_2.png) [@missileman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/missileman)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 4:46pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/2 "2016-01-25T16:46:35Z")
Is this an aftermarket security system? If it is…it will have to be removed. Since you say you have a new engine…the computer is probably not recognizing the new lump of metal that has been attached to it. You will need to contact an independent mechanic and explain to them what is happening. ---
**Author:** ![insightful](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/insightful/32/2732_2.png) [@insightful](https://community.cartalk.com/u/insightful)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 9:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/3 "2016-01-25T21:32:02Z")
If this is the factory system, try a new key made _from the VIN_ by a dealer. ---
**Author:** ![Bisbonian](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/858c86/32.png) [@Bisbonian](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Bisbonian)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 9:45pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/4 "2016-01-25T21:45:19Z")
Your key should have a chip on it? Either the chip on the key is missing/broken or else you’re losing contact with the computer that reads the chip. If you have a second key, try starting with that first. ---
**Author:** ![MikeInNH](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/a587f6/32.png) [@MikeInNH](https://community.cartalk.com/u/MikeInNH)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 10:47pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/5 "2016-01-25T22:47:07Z")
> **If this is the factory system, try a new key made from the VIN by a dealer.** GM wasn’t using a smart key in 93. If it turns the ignition then it works. ---
**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 10:52pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/6 "2016-01-25T22:52:15Z")
GM began using a resistor in the key shaft that is verified by a module in the left kick panel during the late 1980’s. If there is a problem with the key or the wiring to the lock cylinder the vehicle won’t start. ---
**Author:** ![MikeInNH](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/a587f6/32.png) [@MikeInNH](https://community.cartalk.com/u/MikeInNH)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 11:07pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/7 "2016-01-25T23:07:45Z")
> **GM began using a resistor in the key shaft that is verified by a module in the left kick panel during the late 1980's. If there is a problem with the key or the wiring to the lock cylinder the vehicle won't start.** HMM…that’s new to me. In fact the local hardware stores says they can make any GM key prior to 1993. ---
**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 11:31pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/8 "2016-01-25T23:31:14Z")
There are 13 different resistor on those old systems so it is a matter being able to identify the key and having the inventory. ---
**Author:** ![TwinTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/8baadc/32.png) [@TwinTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/TwinTurbo)\ **Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 11:36pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/9 "2016-01-25T23:36:30Z")
Very common failure with VATS of that era- tiny wires going to lock cylinder work harden and break off after decades of use…Good news is it is the simplest system to defeat. Measure key chip resistor value. Locate pair of yellow wires running down column to first connector, insert equivalent resistance 1/8W (or larger) film resistor across connector leading away from ignition switch. ---
**Author:** ![Vernon\_M](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/57b2e6/32.png) [@Vernon\_M](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Vernon_M)\ **Post date:** [February 4, 2016, 9:12am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/10 "2016-02-04T09:12:27Z")
when we droped engine in someone tried to steal the car. we had to by pass the vats. and I no longer have the chip key. garage that done the work is no longer around and obviously im not that great on ignitions . is there a way to find the resistance without the key. ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [February 4, 2016, 9:28am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/11 "2016-02-04T09:28:01Z")
I’m not familiar with that technology, but I’d _guess_ you could just probe that resistor pellet with an ohm meter, using pointed probes. You’ll have to experiment to see where to place the probes, maybe one side of the key to the other, or there’s two separate spots on the same side of the pellet. Look at it with a magnifying glass. The ignition switch would have to provide the same function, probes contacting the pellet somehow, for the computer to be able to measure the pellet resistance. ---
**Author:** ![TwinTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/8baadc/32.png) [@TwinTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/TwinTurbo)\ **Post date:** [February 4, 2016, 10:37pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/security-light-and-no-start/92347/12 "2016-02-04T22:37:43Z")
> we had to by pass the vats. Do you recall how that was done? The typical way is what I have described above. Maybe, someone jammed a resistor into the harness connection and it has now come loose/fallen out. You could start looking from either end although the column side is more accessible IMO. Eliminating the VATS module altogether is quite difficult. It produces an output waveform that the ECM expects to see. Far easier to fake out the VATS module than the ECM…