# Rusted exhaust bolt **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [July 20, 2018, 12:35am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335 "2018-07-20T00:35:47Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 12:35am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/1 "2018-07-20T00:35:47Z")
![stud](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/1/10ca8e80450427f3f5c9b47fd67aed4ece58cd52.JPG) bolt is rusted. not broke off flush, yet. how about if i cut/slit where red line is to make flange possibly release its grip on bolt? i think the remaining flange is enough to hold pipe clamp. or is there another way to get this bolt out? ![IMG_3485](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/e/ed334c972a72469775588b771f7ba1767c56176e.JPG) ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 12:40am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/2 "2018-07-20T00:40:54Z")
They make a tool called a stud remover. ![](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/a/a1d2a67c70331cd9f2a139f13ccf8ae16b4ab1a0.jpg) Tester ---
**Author:** ![TwinTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/8baadc/32.png) [@TwinTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/TwinTurbo)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 12:44am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/3 "2018-07-20T00:44:36Z")
Disc shaped wire brush in drill. Clean lower threaded end as much as possible. Apply B’laster PB several times. Heat edge of flange (red line area) to expand flange. Use small pipe wrench on top section of stud to turn it out. ---
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 1:20am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/4 "2018-07-20T01:20:26Z")
![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/4/4b8e97b1502ca434210e48d6141aff4727d523cd.jpeg)I used wire brush. Mappgas torch on flange. Melted wax on threads. No budge. Do have generic wd40 ish stuff. Pb is better? Effective? ---
**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 1:28am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/5 "2018-07-20T01:28:34Z")
Often Oxy-Acetelyne is necessary. I have found that heating cast iron until I hear it begin to click almost always loosens frozen fasteners. And parrot beak pliers often work better than a pipe wrench. [https://www.google.com/search?q=parrot+beak+pliers&client=firefox-b-1-ab&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjDx\_LTw6zcAhUJPa0KHSk\_Cp4QsxgIKA&biw=1440&bih=786](https://www.google.com/search?q=parrot+beak+pliers&client=firefox-b-1-ab&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjDx_LTw6zcAhUJPa0KHSk_Cp4QsxgIKA&biw=1440&bih=786) ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 1:32am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/6 "2018-07-20T01:32:54Z")
It looks like you have the part out of the vehicle. Know anybody with a welder? Tester ---
**Author:** ![Yosemite](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/yosemite/32/643_2.png) [@Yosemite](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Yosemite)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 3:06am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/7 "2018-07-20T03:06:28Z")
Because this exhaust manifold is out of the car it shouldn’t be that hard to remove. I had a friend…yes I do have a friend…come over the other day with the same thing. I heated the manifold to a yellow heat and used a stud remover like @Tester eluded to. I got one out but had to drill and retap the threads in the second one. The other method is to find a nut that fits over the end of the stud. Don’t worry about it threading onto the stud. Then weld the nut to the stud. You will still have to heat it to a yellow heat, then get a wrench on the welded nut and break it loose. If you do get it broken loose…lube the threads to make spinning the stud out a bit easier. One idea; I usually keep a vehicle quite a long time. If I think that at some point I will have to remove the exhaust bolts in the future…I replace the bolts with Stainless Bolts. They will never weld themselves like that and you will easily remove them in the future. Yosemite ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 3:14am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/8 "2018-07-20T03:14:02Z")
Never install stainless steel hardware in components that are carbon steel that gets extremely hot. The stainless steel expands/contracts at a different rate than carbon steel. This causes the two different steels to seize to each other like they’re welded together. Ask anyone who’s ever worked with an engine dyno with thermocouples mounted in the exhaust. Tester ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 3:17am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/9 "2018-07-20T03:17:31Z")
That looks like a tough one. I’ll use the term “one” rather than what I actually say if presented with that problem… lol … I think what I’d do is make up some home-make thread penetrant. Last time I made up a batch IIRC I used 1/3 mercon 5 transmission fluid, 1/3 acetone, and 1/3 sunflower seed oil. I’d soak in in that for a few days, then use a propane/mapp/ mapp + o2/ torch and whatever wrench worked best to see if it would budge. If not, I’d cut it off on both sides with a sawzall , dremmel, angle grinder w/cutting disc, or whatever, then drill the remaining section out. I might try an EZ out before entirely drilling it out, if I was in a scientific mood. Shouldn’t be much trouble to drill it out, I doubt the stud is hardened much. ---
**Author:** ![pleasedodgevan2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/ad7895/32.png) [@pleasedodgevan2](https://community.cartalk.com/u/pleasedodgevan2)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 4:51am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/10 "2018-07-20T04:51:21Z")
I like to cut those flush with the manifold and drill them out and run a tap through to clean it up. Cast iron is a lot harder than steel so the job is easy. That stud remover might get it out easily. ---
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 11:33am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/11 "2018-07-20T11:33:01Z")
I am ready to put head on. After I fix bolt. No oxy torch. Technically it is not very hard to cut flush and drill it out as manifold is off car. Drill/ tap might be my only fix ---
**Author:** ![Barkydog](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/barkydog/32/2470_2.png) [@Barkydog](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Barkydog)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 12:00pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/12 "2018-07-20T12:00:05Z")
I have found PBlaster to be very effective at times, ---
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 12:25pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/13 "2018-07-20T12:25:02Z")
bolt is in exposed flange so its not buried in a blind hole such as head or block. cut flush, drill and tap. would be nice to have drill press to keep drill somewhat centered but go easy so it wont walk too far off centerpunch spot. ---
**Author:** ![melott](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/melott/32/10827_2.png) [@melott](https://community.cartalk.com/u/melott)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 3:33pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/15 "2018-07-20T15:33:56Z")
What they call an old guy who used to be a successful womanizer. ---
**Author:** ![TwinTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/8baadc/32.png) [@TwinTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/TwinTurbo)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 3:48pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/16 "2018-07-20T15:48:32Z")
> [@Cavell](#): > > Pb is better? Effective? No comparison to wax, not even in the same universe. I have found Seafoam Deep Creep to be similar in performance to B’Laster PB if one or other not available. WD40 no better than wax or water in this application… If you do resort to drilling, try this- center punch as close to center as possible. Drill small hole at first and only deep enough to be through flange width. Then gradually increasing sizes but well short of hitting threads of the flange. Once you have 90% removed, grasp bolt end from bottom and rotate it out. This removes most of the force on the bolt and avoids having to be perfectly centered. Heat is your friend, even if it is propane. And penetrating oil… ---
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 5:33pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/17 "2018-07-20T17:33:08Z")
I still think a slit thru flange up to threads would allow you to pry or split the flange apart ever so slightly and help the situation. if you say the bolt threads are fuzed to the mating threads in the flange and there is no chance of them ever separating than maybe the slit is a waste of time. would be easy with a dremel and cutoff wheel ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 5:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/18 "2018-07-20T17:41:37Z")
Instead of heating up the flange, heat the broken stud until it’s red hot and then let it cool down. Then try removing it. Sorta like this. Tester ---
**Author:** ![RandomTroll](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/randomtroll/32/12184_2.png) [@RandomTroll](https://community.cartalk.com/u/RandomTroll)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 5:57pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/19 "2018-07-20T17:57:05Z")
‘Rusted exhaust bolt’? What happened to the title of this thread? ---
**Author:** ![TwinTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/8baadc/32.png) [@TwinTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/TwinTurbo)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 7:45pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/20 "2018-07-20T19:45:44Z")
Except you don’t need to destroy the flange. It’s completely unnecessary. All this discussion, it could be out already. No need to overthink it. ---
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [July 20, 2018, 8:11pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335/21 "2018-07-20T20:11:00Z")
![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/b/b30369ddc3a536caf20f05eb1d78d1d60771e1b1.jpeg)had to try slit. Didn’t help [Next page](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rusted-exhaust-bolt/121335.md?page=2)