# Rocker studs

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** sierra1500, gmc\
**Created:** [November 11, 2011, 3:27pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405 "2011-11-11T15:27:44Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 10\
**Page:** 1

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![jsims](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/ccd318/32.png) [@jsims](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jsims)\
**Post date:** [November 11, 2011, 3:27pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/1 "2011-11-11T15:27:44Z")

</div>

i have bought a 1988 gmc sierra when i bought the truck the engine supposedly was new and it was tore down except the heads and intake in the truck but someone had tightened the rockers like a pedistal mount and pulled most of the pressed in studs out i have drove them back in and used a center punch to dipple them and it is working but what can i do to ensure that one wont pull back out one day when my wife is 50 miles from the house and standed i really dont want to pull the head off i was hoping there was a trick i could do with the engine still in the truck ( happy wishing) i have never had this prob or even seen it on a stock engine and advice would be ggreatly app!!! thank you car talk comm have a blessed day!

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\
**Post date:** [November 11, 2011, 4:45pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/2 "2011-11-11T16:45:13Z")

</div>

You can tap threads in the head and install threaded studs. Your problem is somewhat common on rebuilt engines. I have repaired dozens of engines with that problem. All were recently installed rebuilt engines.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [November 11, 2011, 4:59pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/3 "2011-11-11T16:59:54Z")

</div>

My vote is with Rod Knox about installing threaded studs.

What would concern me just as much would be the quality of a new (meaning rebuilt?) engine on which someone had gotten ham-fisted with rocker studs. My assumption, right or wrong, would be that ham-fisted was carried throughout the rebuild.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\
**Post date:** [November 11, 2011, 5:23pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/4 "2011-11-11T17:23:50Z")

</div>

Now I’m curious - how are these studs attached to the head? Just a press fit?

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\
**Post date:** [November 11, 2011, 6:23pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/5 "2011-11-11T18:23:23Z")

</div>

It seems that engine rebuilders often use heads that have been left to rust for months and even years and rust degrades the press fit. The rusty heads are boiled out and cleaned, then installed on a block where they look and operate as designed on the bench. But once installed in a car the constant hammering of the camshaft is more than the weakened press fit can withstand and one by one they fail. It is advisable to tap and replace every stud on both heads.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![BustedKnuckles](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bustedknuckles/32/25_2.png) [@BustedKnuckles](https://community.cartalk.com/u/BustedKnuckles)\
**Post date:** [November 12, 2011, 12:18am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/6 "2011-11-12T00:18:52Z")

</div>

Texases, yes, the studs are press-fit at the factory, no threads, no lock-pin or dimples.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [November 12, 2011, 12:24am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/7 "2011-11-12T00:24:24Z")

</div>

There is also a kit available (basically a drill bit and 16 common roll pins) to lock the studs in place but I would consider the tapping of threads to be superior.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![mark9207](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mark9207](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mark9207)\
**Post date:** [November 12, 2011, 1:40am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/8 "2011-11-12T01:40:09Z")

</div>

I would also pull all of the rocker studs out, tap the holes, and install threaded studs. High strength threadlocker is also a good idea when they are installed into the head.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\
**Post date:** [November 12, 2011, 2:49am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/9 "2011-11-12T02:49:22Z")

</div>

It is easier to tap threads than to drill for roll pins, IMHO. I’ve tried the side drilling and it is quite tedious.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![jsims](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/ccd318/32.png) [@jsims](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jsims)\
**Post date:** [November 14, 2011, 5:23pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rocker-studs/69405/10 "2011-11-14T17:23:19Z")

</div>

can i do this with the heads on the engine and how would i keep the shavings out of my engine?  
they are just pressed in and are holding but it will always be in the back of my head and dont want to get stranded
