Yeah, low on bucks, with a car that requires attention. Been there, done that, and it’s no fun, I know. Hope you can work things out.
They don’t have any inspections in Minnesota, we’re kind of lucky in that respect. I know a lot of cars running around here that would have been scrapped long ago in other states.
Some years ago in Missouri, they passed a poorly written inpection law that prohibited driving a car that didn’t pass the safety inspection. Sounds logical on the face of it, eh? They also decided rather than state funded and paid for inspection sites, they’d “license” mechanic shops to do the inspections. The results were predictable. They almost ALWAYS found “something.” Then if you’d say OK, I’m going to have my son/cousin whoever fix it" they’d say with a wicked gleam in the eye “Why sure, were ya want me to tow it???” Of course, a few unscrupulous shops killed the golden goose and the law was quickly changed.
Oklahoma used to have licensed inspection shops from fast lube facilities clean through supersized car dealers.
The law was pretty specific about what would or would not pass inspection. The state’s own estimate was that about 15% or so of cars entering for an inspection should fail for one reason or the other.
Depending upon the area, the percentage could be even higher.
That puts the mechanic/state inspector (of which I was one) of being in the position of one of the following if a problem was noted.
A. Advising someone of a problem and risk being accused of drumming up work.
B. Letting it slide while saying nothing and hoping a problem won’t come back to bite someone.
C. Risk letting it slide, getting caught, and facing a heavy fine or jail time.
The best thing the state of OK ever did was abolish that program.
I know this fix is not permanent - and will not solve the safety issue - for right now I plan to grind/cut everything back to bright metal (inside and out) weld in a steel box beam on each side and treat everything with Rust Bullet automotive formula, seal in the area with fiberglass fabric and resin, Bondo etc. and yes I plan to put side skirts from WingsWest that I bought a few months ago when I could not see the extent of the issue. At least this will add some rigidity to the area.
Yes you can get rocker panels for your car. This link has them for $48.74 each http://www.rustrepair.com/DODGE-INTREPID-93-REPAIR-PANELS.HTM You can get a glue to install them. A lot of panels are now glued on and it is stronger than welding. As for bodyshop that wont install them, Not many will do rust repair. Find one that will. If you do it yourself you will need some tools that may cost as much as getting done. That being said a grinder, some clamps and cutting wheels can get the job done. I am doing this now to my truck. Rockers are getting bad.
Rocker panels are part of the structural integrity of the car. How a car performs in a crash rest is related to it. Repair shops don’t want that liability, it’s that simple. The only sure fire way to deal with rust in rocker panels is…
Pop off the plastic or metal trim over the rockers. Spread news paper under the panels. Spray oil in through the exposed holes as you now have access to all of it for rust prevention. Catch the drippings over the next 24 hrs and properly dispose. It takes a half a quart of linseed or motor oil and five minutes. Do it once every two years. The fenders and rear quarters are just as easy. It will not rust EVER on areas you reach. Oh…you have to do it before you see rust. Otherwise, you are chasing your tail and driving an unsafe car. Yes, it is that easy and that quick.
I can tell you from experience, it’s cool driving a 15 to 20 year old car without rust that I drove through a car wash 4 times a year while living in the rust belt.