My recommendation is to fix the problem and not mess with resets by battery disconnection. Get the code fixed by a qualified mechanic . period end.
It’s not a good idea to clear the code unless you are confident whatever is causing it is not a serious problem. If the code is due to misfires or a rich mixture for example, continuing to drive the car without fixing the problem could ruin your very expensive catlylitic converter. I think that is why the AutoZone folks recommend not to clear it until the problem is at least diagnosed.
bertrand, go back and reread my post, if you can’t figure out what type of ignition you have from my descriptions, I’m not sure how to explain.
Distributor, you have one or you don’t. If you have wires from your sparkplugs all going back to a round cap, you have one.
Lost spark. one coil for each pair of sparkplugs. No distributor but you will have sparkplug wires.
COP, no sparkplug wires but a module that sits on top of each sparkplug wit a couple of small wires going to it.
Unsure, just replace all your sparkplugs and any sparkplug wires you have.
Went to head home from work…started car and no check engine light, I am so confused.
Some faults come and go, most are just harmless emissions related abnormalities…If there is something seriously wrong with your car there will be a drivability issue and you won’t need a light to tell you something is wrong…If that light has something important to say, it will flash on and off…
The van is running great, it has 160000+ miles on it and still getting the same gas mileage from when I bought it, will just to have to wait and see I guess.