Replace front struts and CV axles on a 2010 Hyundai Elantra?

Many low-cost cars go to the salvage yard after the timing belt breaks, owners defer the replacement of the timing belt due to the expense, after the belt breaks it is impractical to replace the engine. Many of the older car models with timing belts are no longer seen on the road.

There is only one 2008-2010 Elantra on my local craigslist. There are four 2008-2010 Elantras at my closest Pick-A-Part.

An owner could spend $3000 on timing belt replacement, suspension and axle repairs, then discover they can only get $3000 when selling the vehicle.

$3000 seems optimistic for a 2010 Elantra

If the hypothetical 2010 Elantra is in good condition and has reasonably low miles, it could easily sell for $5k. $3k is too cheap.

I did look and your numbers are far higher than what I’m seeing

From all said the axles are due and could leave you stranded. The struts don’t sound like they are hopeless yet, but could be a safety concern. I’m surprised there is so little about the condition of the car in general, not even the mileage. Nothing you do is going to significantly improve the trade in value for a 15 year old vehicle. If you are going to keep it for at least another year (and if it’s overall condition makes it worth keeping for another year) have it fixed and drive it until the next big thing comes up, when you will be exactly in this same position, or until finances allow you to replace it.

Ummm, did you even read the Very 1st line of the post???
OK, 2nd line if you count Hello as the 1st…
BTW, it has not been edited…

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My bad. Still nothing on overall condition.

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You may wish to disagree, but–IMO–that Elantra is nearing the end of its design life.

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Don’t disagree, but I’m coming from a place where it is almost always more economical top repair than replace. There are obvious advantages to replacement, like updated safety features and repair for me most of the time means my own labor, an advantage not everyone can claim. There are also considerations other than economic, although they loom large with the OP. As others have observed, you don’t want to undertake this one repair only to be faced with others equally urgent. That was my focus on overall condition. As for mileage I have routinely run asian aluminum block engines in several vehicles over 250K without significant problems, but those were mostly highway miles taking us back to questions about the service this vehicle saw and whether replacement is the better option. Even new cars are no guarantee to avoid repairs, although there is the advantage of warranties. The other truth is that after 80 or 100K you have to expect things to break or wear out. A lot depends on an individual’s tolerance.

I did take the car to a mechanic to get an assessment. He told me that the car needed the following in order of urgency:

valve cover leaking into spark plug tubes

Timing belt

Struts and sway bar

CV axles - boots torn

The grand total if I do all of this work would be $4100. I will likely do the valve cover soon as that will only cost me $600 and it sounds like it could be the biggest problem. Then I’d do the timing belt. Ultimately, I am going to try to keep caring for this vehicle as best I can, including carrying around a bottle of oil in the car to top it off as needed, in the hopes of keeping it as long as possible.

Just how far past the replacement mileage or time are you ?

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I’m not past it yet. I am at 185K and I last did it at 92k so I have another 7k to go before I hit the recommended mileage.

Check your owner’s manual for the timing belt replacement interval. According to Gates installation guide, Hyundai recommends replacement at 60,000 miles or 48 months, whichever comes first. It looks like you are way past due for timing belt replacement.

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I’d sell car and buy a civic.

It’s not 60K for my car. It’s 90K or 108months.

That is probably subjective but in my opinion, the condition of the car is generally good. I have been diligent for years about regular check ups for the car in order to anticipate issues and avoid disasters.

It sounds like the car’s in pretty decent shape and maybe worth doing the work . . . you could save big bucks by doing a lot of it yourself, btw

But I still profoundly disagree about @bcohen2010 about what the car is worth

No offense intended . . . I’m just not agreeing with his assessment

IMHO it’s your car so your opinion is the only one that matters. That doesn’t mean you should ignore good advice. If you are comfortable with your car knowledge and happy with the car make the needed repairs for safety and reliability and drive it until the next thing breaks—when you will have to go through the same analysis again—or until you can afford fo replace it. Otherwise find a trustworthy mechanic and take his/her advice. In the interest of full disclosure I drive my cars into the ground. My last two were retired at 425K and 280K miles, each driven to a car dealer and traded in for a used replacement when I felt the first was becoming unreliable and the second unsafe. Good luck.

That is only $341.67 a month for 12 months, that would be a one year very cheap car note and then you will have many years before it is needed again… Even if you spent $4000.00 a year ($334 a month), still a cheap car note, as long as it is reliable, and you like it/suits your needs then go for it, As long as the body panels are not flapping in the wind while driving down the road or the frame is not rusted out…

There are Pros and Cons, write them down and see what is best for you and your situation…

Hyundai doesn’t have a 2010 owner’s manual online. The earliest is 2021. The Gates document I linked to says 60,000 miles. Here’s another recommendation for 60,000 miles.

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