# Removing a stuck temperature switch **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** toyota, pickup\ **Created:** [January 16, 2010, 2:31am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/removing-a-stuck-temperature-switch/42621 "2010-01-16T02:31:24Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 6\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![RandomTroll](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/randomtroll/32/12184_2.png) [@RandomTroll](https://community.cartalk.com/u/RandomTroll)\ **Post date:** [January 16, 2010, 2:31am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/removing-a-stuck-temperature-switch/42621/1 "2010-01-16T02:31:24Z")
The temperature switch screws directly into the outside of the engine. It’s made of brass. I broke mine. I have a replacement but I can’t get the old one off. It’s 17 mm. I tried first a 17 mm box wrench (12 point) which didn’t budge it but scraped off metal. I bought a 6-point socket and used my 18" breaker bar: still couldn’t move it. I assume it’s the original part, which means it has been there for 23 years. What do you good people suggest? It _is_ regular threads: I haven’t been trying to screw it off the wrong way. ---
**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\ **Post date:** [January 16, 2010, 2:35am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/removing-a-stuck-temperature-switch/42621/2 "2010-01-16T02:35:44Z")
First, try TIGHTENING it a little, then back it out… Next try an impact wrench…This may twist it off flush…Not a good thing. Maybe try heating it to near incandescent heat with a torch. That almost always works… ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [January 16, 2010, 2:50am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/removing-a-stuck-temperature-switch/42621/3 "2010-01-16T02:50:26Z")
This is a perfect example of what can happen when two disimular metals are threaded together. Such as steel drain plugs screwed into aluminum oil pans. I run into this when trying to remove stainless steel sensor fittings out of steel bungs. You can get the brass sending unit out of the block but it’s going to take heat. Take a propane torch and heat up what’s left of the sending unit as hot as possible. Let it cool back down and try removing it. If it doesn’t budge, spray a penetrating lubricant around the threads. Reheat and let cool down and try again. Repeat again. Eventually the sending unit will come out. Tester ---
**Author:** ![RandomTroll](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/randomtroll/32/12184_2.png) [@RandomTroll](https://community.cartalk.com/u/RandomTroll)\ **Post date:** [January 16, 2010, 2:52am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/removing-a-stuck-temperature-switch/42621/4 "2010-01-16T02:52:11Z")
``` Quoth Caddyman: 'First, try TIGHTENING it a little, then back it out.' Did. Quoth Caddyman: 'Next try an impact wrench.' No room to maneuver, unless I lift the engine Quoth Caddyman: 'try heating it to near incandescent heat with a torch.' Heat my engine with a torch. You're a fan of excitement at the expense ``` of others. ``` It's brass: I could dig in with something that would grip it hard - but ``` not too many times: what’s the best way to try? ---
**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\ **Post date:** [January 16, 2010, 3:01am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/removing-a-stuck-temperature-switch/42621/5 "2010-01-16T03:01:48Z")
Sometimes the factory uses a sealer or thread locker on these fittings. High heat will break this bond. ANYTHING threaded into aluminum will tend to seize in place. Bringing the brass up to high heat can loosen this bond also… Maybe step up to 1/2" drive tools to get more leverage. ---
**Author:** ![RandomTroll](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/randomtroll/32/12184_2.png) [@RandomTroll](https://community.cartalk.com/u/RandomTroll)\ **Post date:** [January 16, 2010, 5:47pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/removing-a-stuck-temperature-switch/42621/6 "2010-01-16T17:47:14Z")
``` Quoth Tester: 'Take a propane torch and heat up what's left of the sending unit as hot as possible.' I've learned to respect Mr Tester from the experience and judgment of his posts, but I ``` can’t imagine taking a torch to my engine. Would I have to drain it of oil first? and gasoline (how? I have already disconnected the fuel pump to get at the temperature switch.) ``` Quoth Caddyman: 'ANYTHING threaded into aluminum will tend to seize in place' The engine is iron. Quoth Caddyman: 'Maybe step up to 1/2" drive tools to get more leverage.' I've been using 1/2" drive all along. That's not the problem: the wrench ``` and socket have ground metal off instead of moving the part. ``` I'd prefer something that gripped the part as hard as possible but not so ``` hard as to bust it off. There seems to be something between the nut and the engine, like a washer or gasket, but these aren’t mentioned in the manual and the replacement came with nothing.