# Recomended tools to remove a bolt with a snaped head?

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/recomended-tools-to-remove-a-bolt-with-a-snaped-head/100081>\
**Category:** General Discussion\
**Created:** [February 18, 2017, 6:01am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/recomended-tools-to-remove-a-bolt-with-a-snaped-head/100081 "2017-02-18T06:01:08Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 6\
**Page:** 3

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\
**Post date:** [February 24, 2017, 3:02pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/recomended-tools-to-remove-a-bolt-with-a-snaped-head/100081/41 "2017-02-24T15:02:33Z")

</div>

> [@Nevada\_545](#):
>
> An impact gun will break off a seized bolt just as nicely as a breaker bar.

Yes, but if the bolt can be freed an impact wrench is much more likely to do so. That’s one reason why we use them, isn’t it?

> [@Nevada\_545](#):
>
> Loosening by hand allows you to fell the resistance and alternate between tightening and loosening to work in the penetrating oil.

If it can be loosened by hand, it isn’t by definition stuck! 😁

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![always\_fixing](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/71e660/32.png) [@always\_fixing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/always_fixing)\
**Post date:** [February 24, 2017, 4:00pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/recomended-tools-to-remove-a-bolt-with-a-snaped-head/100081/42 "2017-02-24T16:00:43Z")

</div>

> [@ok4450](#):
>
> After applying penetrating oil or heat (whichever you choose…) you might try to rock the bolt before trying to force it loose.
> 
> Use a breakover and see-saw the bolt back and forth between trying to loosen and trying to tighten it. Just nudge it hard back and forth.Quite often that will work a frozen fastener loose.

This is typically what I do for repairs as I run into rusted nuts/bolts constantly.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![always\_fixing](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/71e660/32.png) [@always\_fixing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/always_fixing)\
**Post date:** [February 24, 2017, 4:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/recomended-tools-to-remove-a-bolt-with-a-snaped-head/100081/43 "2017-02-24T16:03:05Z")

</div>

> [@Nevada\_545](#):
>
> An impact gun will break off a seized bolt just as nicely as a breaker bar. Loosening by hand allows you to fell the resistance and alternate between tightening and loosening to work in the penetrating oil.

This is what concerns me when I asked an exhaust shop what they do to remove seized exhaust manifold bolts.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![shadowfax](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/shadowfax/32/13026_2.png) [@shadowfax](https://community.cartalk.com/u/shadowfax)\
**Post date:** [February 24, 2017, 6:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/recomended-tools-to-remove-a-bolt-with-a-snaped-head/100081/44 "2017-02-24T18:10:35Z")

</div>

> [@always\_fixing](#):
>
> This is what concerns me when I asked an exhaust shop what they do to remove seized exhaust manifold bolts.

That doesn’t bug me at all. If I have a shop do it and they break the head off of a bolt, that’s their problem, and they definitely have the tools and knowhow to deal with it. I only get worried about breaking bolt heads when _I’m_ the one who has to get out of that mess! 😃

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![always\_fixing](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/71e660/32.png) [@always\_fixing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/always_fixing)\
**Post date:** [February 24, 2017, 6:23pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/recomended-tools-to-remove-a-bolt-with-a-snaped-head/100081/45 "2017-02-24T18:23:33Z")

</div>

I’m curious how you can use an easy out when it’s hard enough to get wrenches in to just to get AT the exhaust manifold bolts (in my case, nuts). Two of the nuts require that you separate the engine from one of the engine mounts and jack it up two inches to get at them on one side!

I’m guessing they must weld bolt heads to the studs in case they break off as I can’t see any other way.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\
**Post date:** [February 24, 2017, 10:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/recomended-tools-to-remove-a-bolt-with-a-snaped-head/100081/46 "2017-02-24T22:10:23Z")

</div>

> [@always\_fixing](#):
>
> I’m guessing they must weld bolt heads to the studs in case they break off

While I can’t speak to the OP’s specific design, in critical applications “mechanical locking” nuts are often used. They’re simply nuts that have had the threads slightly distorted to cause a locking effect. Often they can be identified by a slight square “ding” on one of the flats. I’ve never seen welding. Removing these systems is generally done by cutting the old parts off and using new ones. Many nuts even specify on their design drawings that they’re “one time use”.  
I’ve attached a photo that shows non-reusable parts and how they’re typically designated. I find having these types of drawings handy before starting a repair to be invaluable.

NOTE: the only two ways I know of to get these types of drawings are to (1) subscribe to a database (I miss mine) or (2) bring a box of doughnuts in to the parts window guy at your local dealership. 😁

 ![](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/d/dbcf5b730111fc47badddb6bc1f571e18e8fe023.JPG)

[Previous page](https://community.cartalk.com/t/recomended-tools-to-remove-a-bolt-with-a-snaped-head/100081.md?page=2)
