# Rear diff

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** cr-v, honda\
**Created:** [February 14, 2013, 9:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356 "2013-02-14T21:05:29Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 9\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![lucifers\_dad](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/54ee81/32.png) [@lucifers\_dad](https://community.cartalk.com/u/lucifers_dad)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2013, 9:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356/1 "2013-02-14T21:05:29Z")

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Hi I have a 2000 reg Honda CRV and when the car has been run a few miles there’s a grinding noise from the rear of the car, especially when de-accelerating it sound like the axle. any thoughts please

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**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2013, 9:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356/2 "2013-02-14T21:13:21Z")

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It’s awd/4wd, right? Hope it’s either a rear wheel bearing, axle half shaft, or a brake issue, and not the rear diff.

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**Author:** ![lucifers\_dad](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/54ee81/32.png) [@lucifers\_dad](https://community.cartalk.com/u/lucifers_dad)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2013, 9:18pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356/3 "2013-02-14T21:18:07Z")

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yes its a 4wd could it be the rear diff damper ?

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**Author:** ![UncleTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/u/e9a140/32.png) [@UncleTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/UncleTurbo)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2013, 9:33pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356/4 "2013-02-14T21:33:07Z")

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the CRV is very particular regarding the rear differential fluid. If you, or a previous owner, ever had the rear diff fluid changed and they didn’t use the Honda brand fluid, that could be the source of the noise.

I’d get the rear diff fluid changed with the genuine Honda fluid ASAP. Even if the OEM fluid is still in there it is due for a change. If there is no change in the noise at least you know your rear differential has the correct fluid. I hope it is not the rear differential.

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**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2013, 9:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356/5 "2013-02-14T21:41:15Z")

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What’s a ‘rear diff damper’?

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**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\
**Post date:** [February 15, 2013, 12:31am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356/6 "2013-02-15T00:31:49Z")

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**_Honda Published A TSB (Technical Service Bulletin #01-079, 3 Pages) In October, 2001 To Help Their Mechanics Diagnose/Remedy “Noise From the Rear Differential” In 1997–2001  
CR-V (4WD)Vehicles._**

It refers to a screech or whine when making a tight turn at low speed when 4WD engages. They say the first thing to do is to replace the dual pump fluid (Honda fluid) which could be contaminated or broken down and not lubricating properly.

After that, one is to replace the rear differential clutch set.

Sounds like your’s is more of a grinding noise, going straight. It may be too late, but I guess replacing the fluid is worth a try.

_ **CSA** _

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**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\
**Post date:** [February 15, 2013, 12:50am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356/7 "2013-02-15T00:50:41Z")

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While it may certainly be the diff, just make sure your mechanic eliminates the cheaper stuff first (brakes, wheel bearings, and axle CV joints).

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**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\
**Post date:** [February 15, 2013, 12:54am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356/8 "2013-02-15T00:54:10Z")

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**_@Texases, Good Point.  
CSA_**

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**Author:** ![dagosa](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/dagosa/32/9837_2.png) [@dagosa](https://community.cartalk.com/u/dagosa)\
**Post date:** [February 15, 2013, 4:12am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rear-diff/77356/9 "2013-02-15T04:12:11Z")

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I’m with @texases  
And the sooner the better. I know of none of which that has been voiced as a concern that would not get worse if you neglected it.
