# Rattling Valves? **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [May 12, 2008, 11:24pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rattling-valves/13948 "2008-05-12T23:24:49Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 6\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![cnotthoff](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/5fc32e/32.png) [@cnotthoff](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cnotthoff)\ **Post date:** [May 12, 2008, 11:24pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rattling-valves/13948/1 "2008-05-12T23:24:49Z")
I am trying to keep my '97 Toyota T-100 as long as I can. It has been running like a champ for 150,000 miles. I just had all fluids changed and valve cover gaskets replaced. It hasn’t given me any trouble around town since that service. On a recent trip I began to hear rattling after driving at 70 mph for about an hour. Rattle only happens at over 2800 rpm. There’s no noise in neutral or with clutch in (not a loose floppy kayak strap). Shop uses 10-30 oil, because it gives better gas milage than higher vis. stuff. Could a higher viscosity oil silence rattling valves? Any other ideas what might rattle after warming for an hour? Shop wants to hear noise. I’ll have to drive a half hour away to get it to do that again. Thanks ---
**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\ **Post date:** [May 12, 2008, 11:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rattling-valves/13948/2 "2008-05-12T23:50:32Z")
Use only the viscosity recommended in the owner’s manual. That noise you hear could also be a timing chain. Wait and see what the shop diagnosis is. ---
**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2008, 2:01am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rattling-valves/13948/3 "2008-05-13T02:01:33Z")
The expression “valve rattling,” is nearly always referring to pre-ignition. If the sound is similat to a tin can with several B-Bs being shaken around, try a tank of high octane. ---
**Author:** ![cappy208](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cappy208/32/31_2.png) [@cappy208](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cappy208)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2008, 2:58am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rattling-valves/13948/4 "2008-05-13T02:58:01Z")
which engine? 4 has chain, 6 has belt. ---
**Author:** ![cnotthoff](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/5fc32e/32.png) [@cnotthoff](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cnotthoff)\ **Post date:** [May 17, 2008, 4:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rattling-valves/13948/5 "2008-05-17T16:13:09Z")
Manual recommends 10w30, but that was for a new truck. It has the six. I had the timing belt replaced about 30 k ago. Didn’t rattle after that. If octane is the problem, wouldn’t it happen all the time, particularly when I accelerate sharply? We pay the highest gas prices in the US. If the only way to get rid of noise is to fill tank at $4.30 a gallon, I’ll live with the knock. Yea, I know I’ll be paying $4.30 a gallon for regular next month. ---
**Author:** ![GreasyJack](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/df705f/32.png) [@GreasyJack](https://community.cartalk.com/u/GreasyJack)\ **Post date:** [May 18, 2008, 4:49pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/rattling-valves/13948/6 "2008-05-18T16:49:33Z")
Have the valves been adjusted anytime this decade?