You can drive off with NO/very bad brakes (caliper locked up breaking the rotor disc from the rotor hat etc), steal cords flopping in the wind (tires), etc etc etc, and FS couldn’t do a thing about it (depending on state law), other than wright up on the work order and have you sign the receipt just to CYA (we could at the company’s expense tow the vehicle to the customers house, but as soon as the keys are handed back, they can drive it again)… However IF the customer demanded that their new tire be installed on the front then we had a legal waver in the POS (point of sale) system that we would click on with a legal disclaimer thingy for the customer to sign on the receipt, as well as the normal signature on the receipt…
If only replacing 1 tire, it still goes on the rear with the next best tire to be moved (if not already) to the rear so you had the best 2 tires on the rear… If only replacing 3 tires, then 2 new still on back…
Exception is on staggard wheel/tires vehicles… This is on 4 wheel/tire vehicles…
I don’t have a Mavis Tire store near me but if I did I would go and ask them if they would really tell someone to put 2 new tires on the front of a front wheel drive vehicle. I also wonder about these so called Toyota service centers saying to put them on the front.
Again new tires on the rear, 4WD vehicles are RWD when 4WD is not engaged. On 4WD it is desirable to have all four be the same, but since 4WD is only engaged on low traction surfaces it is somewhat more forgiving.
AWD vehicles require matching tire on all positions.
All depends on the manufacture and sometimes on the model and even the trim level… When I was still working you could replace 1 tire at a time on the Hyundai’s and Kia’s… Honda Pilots required all 4 to be close in tread depth, Honda CRV’s depended on the year, some were 2 at a time while other years were 4 at a time… Staggard wheel BMW’s 2 at a time, otherwise 4 at a time… Benz was the same way IIRC… Certain Nissan Rogue (trim level) could do 1 or 2, all others models required all 4…
You can not throw a blanket on tire replacement, you have to go to the owners manual or do your research to know for sure…
On many of the 4x4 and full time 4wd vehicles mixing tires can cause the transfer case to fail, I have seen dealers when installing 2 tires on a 4x4 (full time or part time) install the 2 tires at opposite corners (LF and RR or RF and LR) if it doesn’t have a limited Slip type rear end… I have also seen customers with the CRV’s and few fulltime 4wd vehicles remove a driveshaft…
On the modern AWD Explorers you can replace 2 tires at a time, but the AWD unit at the rear diff may/will not engage, the
Explorer by default is FWD, it uses an on-demand AWD system that decides when to send power to the rear wheels. … Others may be the same way I am sure…
Tech moves fast and I am not as up to date after retirement…
Most of the time the owners manual will tell you, you just have to really look for it…
This is from a Lexus owners manual back in Feb 2018, Toyota’s had the same wording back then, I read this in many of the Toyota/Lexus manuals over the years, not sure what the current ones say… The wording is priceless… lol
Yeah I always got a kick out of that one, sounds like it was written by a lawyer trying to sound like an engineer, don’t know why they didn’t give a tread depth or % difference, I guess the “remarkably different” left it open to interpretation in the legal since… I always went with 2-3/32" difference…
Did you see the part about “which may lead to an accident resulting in death or serious injury”?? That one sold a few tires when I handed the owners manual to the customer to read… lol
The tires used on the Salt Flats are not very good for any place else, they are very slim and mostly tread-less for aerodynamics and rolling resistance. These narrow tires typically have only 1/32 of an inch of rubber tread to prevent heat buildup and expansion.
I have seen the information on many German make tire placards specifying higher cold presssures for “sustained driving above 100mph” on them, so I am aware of that.
It’s on the placard, so of course I would use the higher pressures if my driving met that criteria.
I would also run the tire pressures recommended for a plus- or minus-size wheel/tire fitment, according to published tables.
My issue is with the philosophy of arbitrarily running tire pressures higher than those on the vehicle door frame placard, just because it was suggested online, or even by a well-meaning but misinformed mechanic or technician:
“Oh, I would run 3-4psi higher than what’s on that label”