# Power struggle. What tension! **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** focus, ford\ **Created:** [February 19, 2020, 9:42pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874 "2020-02-19T21:42:05Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 15\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Burger1](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/burger1/32/3164_2.png) [@Burger1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Burger1)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 9:42pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/1 "2020-02-19T21:42:06Z")
2002 Ford Focus SE ZX5 SPI I know I’m probably answering my own question here, but I’ve been getting the voltage warning light and dash lights dim/brighten no matter if I’m driving or idling. It comes on and STAYS on until the car is shut off. I previously noticed the tensioner is likely bad, as the car starts with a squeaky belt and the belt never truly stops squeaking. Its faint but its there. Damp days, forget about it because it will squeak forever. Belt is in good shape so…Bam, obviously the tensioner. Previous owner put a new alternator and battery in it right before I got it. Is my tensioner allowing this voltage drop? ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 9:49pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/2 "2020-02-19T21:49:02Z")
> [@Burger1](#): > > Belt is in good shape How do you know the belt is in good shape? Tester ---
**Author:** ![Burger1](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/burger1/32/3164_2.png) [@Burger1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Burger1)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 9:49pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/3 "2020-02-19T21:49:59Z")
Looked at it. Looks recently replaced. No cracks or weathering, not worn. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 10:04pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/4 "2020-02-19T22:04:53Z")
Rookie mistake. > **[tt002-15.pdf](https://assets.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/resources/resource-library/tech-tips-bulletins/tt002-15.pdf)** > > 636.05 KB Tester ---
**Author:** ![Burger1](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/burger1/32/3164_2.png) [@Burger1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Burger1)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 10:07pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/5 "2020-02-19T22:07:55Z")
Basically I’m looking into the voltage drop. Be it the tensioner or the belt, both are simple fixes, I’m just sighting my crosshairs. ---
**Author:** ![Burger1](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/burger1/32/3164_2.png) [@Burger1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Burger1)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 10:15pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/6 "2020-02-19T22:15:15Z")
That is a nice ad for gates belt gauges though. Got the video and everything. I’d give that out on a business card if I worked for Gates. ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 10:24pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/7 "2020-02-19T22:24:45Z")
If you didn’t replace the belt, you don’t know how old it is. If you’re replacing the tensioner, replace the belt. But are you saying the belt is slipping? That’s the only reason it would cause low voltage. If it’s slipping replace the belt for sure! ---
**Author:** ![VOLVO-V70](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/8e8cbc/32.png) [@VOLVO-V70](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VOLVO-V70)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 10:27pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/8 "2020-02-19T22:27:35Z")
Isn’t this the vehicle that has wacky door lock problems . If so you might need a auto electric shop to see what really is going on . ---
**Author:** ![Burger1](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/burger1/32/3164_2.png) [@Burger1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Burger1)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 10:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/9 "2020-02-19T22:32:12Z")
This IS the wacky locks car. Its actually got a list of problems, however I don’t believe the locks are associated with the voltage drop. ---
**Author:** ![rrappel8\_158848](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/b3f665/32.png) [@rrappel8\_158848](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rrappel8_158848)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 10:34pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/10 "2020-02-19T22:34:52Z")
Do you know it’s the tensioner, and not one of the idler pulleys, or the bearing on the alternator, or power steering pump? For that matter, you’re assuming _(I think)_ that the tensioner bearing is going, but it could be tensioner spring not holding belt tight enough. Can you borrow a mechanic’s stethoscope?; it will let you isolate any bearing noise. Better to diagnose before throwing parts at a problem. In any event, since you’re going to have to remove the belt, check it off the car, bend backwards a little and look for cracking, or, just change it, they’re around $18 But… voltage drop? The alternator could be defective, is the regulator on that car on the alternator, or, part of the computer system. You might do better at a FORD or FOCUS specific owners club on the net. **Good Luck !.** ---
**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\ **Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 10:39pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/11 "2020-02-19T22:39:08Z")
> [@Burger1](#): > > This IS the wacky locks car. Its actually got a list of problems, however I don’t believe the locks are associated with the voltage drop. Did you fix the locks? Did you look at my reply to that discussion? > [@A funny thing happened at the store](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-funny-thing-happened-at-the-store/158549): > > 2002 focus se zx5 SPI First things first. I got this car for free on the basis that if I could fix it I could have it. The issue was a blown drum cylinder on one side that I resolved by just redoing both drums using parts from another focus before I scrapped that one. Bam, easy car. Well…the lock actuators all the way to the trunk are slightly possessed. When you activate them they cycle several times. Sometimes they stop in the correct position, sometimes I have to hit the button again. I can… _ **CSA** _ 🌴 🕶 🌴 ---
**Author:** ![Burger1](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/burger1/32/3164_2.png) [@Burger1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Burger1)\ **Post date:** [February 20, 2020, 12:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/12 "2020-02-20T00:05:05Z")
> [@common\_sense\_answer](#): > > Did you fix the locks? > Did you look at my reply to that discussion? Yes, sorry for the late reply. Voltage issue unaffected however. ---
**Author:** ![Burger1](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/burger1/32/3164_2.png) [@Burger1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Burger1)\ **Post date:** [February 22, 2020, 11:35am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/13 "2020-02-22T11:35:45Z")
Well, I fixed the problem. The alternator was installed with a cross threaded nut on the terminal and not tightened, so the spade was jiggling around and zapping away the metal around it. Explains why the issue was becoming worse, as the room to jiggle was increasing with each contact. Broke the terminal while trying to remove the cross threaded nut and made it a fun fix… ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [February 22, 2020, 8:09pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/14 "2020-02-22T20:09:50Z")
It’ll be easiest to just install a remanufactured alternator at this point ---
**Author:** ![Burger1](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/burger1/32/3164_2.png) [@Burger1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Burger1)\ **Post date:** [February 22, 2020, 8:25pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/power-struggle-what-tension/158874/15 "2020-02-22T20:25:39Z")
> [@db4690](#): > > It’ll be easiest to just install a remanufactured alternator at this point Well, I was going to weld the spade to the terminal, the. I discovered that when I flaked the insulator away, there was a deep nut at the base. I was able to remove the half melted nut and put the spade beneath it rather than on top. Voltages read correctly now and the power fluctuation is gone.