Leatherette radiator cover? $40 ? Can you say Geo Metro? HahaHehe
I thought i qualified earlier in the thread that i am running all tests with the radiator covered 100% with hytemp nylon and fan on high. This so day to day comparisons are under the same conditions, not one day having fan off and the next on high. the nylon is a sheet about 1/16 thick. I started being overly carefull just useing small amounts of coverage, eventually developing a system of 4 inch strips so i could change the amount of coverage as needed, put one in pull one out. now I have a piece cut to the exact size and leave it .
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Rod, I have clamped the hose from the stat to radiator, although this did bring the temp up a bit i was able to drive without getting to temp with no flow what so ever.
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TT, when you say “same gasket” I assume , you mean the rubber arould the flange. I tend to have ruled out the stat as i have changed the stat no less than five times with no change what so ever. one could figure that there would be some change in condition along the way, with 5 different stats.
I will test the mix, as i have drained the fluid so often i am not sure.
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The kicker is that my other metro, Booger (yea, green, 93) will come right to temp and i can run with the windows down without a chill. Barney, (purple 95) is the only one, I have had 16 metros, all 3cyl, that has ever done this. 16 holy cows. lots of deer here, and trees are not cut back from the road very far.
The reasons i am about to rule out the stat, are 1) temp does not reasch opening temp, 2) i have clamped the hose to 100% flow restriction with little change, 3) when i let it idle to temp, about 190, on gauge, stat seems to open and down goes the temp.
Had to step awayfor a minute. In all fairness, 3 of the 16 were picked up as organ donors. anyway, moving on. it has been suggested that i should try swaping stats. I will try this in a couple days, i ordered 6 more stat housing gaskets and they will be here soon. Yea Yea, I can hear everyone, just use rtv, anyone ever tried rtv at two below zero? besides its a pain to keep cleaning off, and to heat the garage and contents, will take WAY to long for a 5 minute task.
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by the way, back in the early 80’s i had a 68 beetle, it had superior heat! can any of you figure out why?
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note of interest: gaskets ranged in price from $1.99 to $7.55 ea. I went to 6 different outlets, none on the shelf. ORielly had 10 of the rubber rings, but no housing gaskets, hmmm.
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Ok i wont leave you hanging any longer. yea i will.
Obviously, engine heat is being dissipated somewhere. With the cobbling in of a 2nd cousin engine there is a great possibility that a heater or thermostat by-pass hose was incorrectly routed to the radiator and feeds sufficient coolant flow to cool the engine in the frigid winter air.
“With the cobbling in of a 2nd cousin engine” WHAT? please translate.
Beetle heat puzzler= StewartWarner gasoline heater. It would draw fuel right from the gas tank, it had a sparkplug and its own exhaust pipe!
Please excuse my interpretation of the statement “after an engine CHANGE,” leadfoot1. Engine “changes” often result in peculiar problems and I was too quick to guess that was the basis for your problem. I would recommend that you check for a hose that connects outgoing coolant from the engine to the radiator even if it is quite circuitous.
Semantics aside, Rod made a good point. If the “top & bottom” of the engine was rebuilt, all the cooling hoses would have had to have been disconnected and the engine removed. It would not be unheard of to make an error reconnecting them.
Yes, Mountainbike. And even a 3/8"/10mm hose would carry enough coolant to chill the engine when the ambient temperature is below zero and the car is moving.
I do not see any swapped hoses, remember I have 2 of these so I am able to do side by side compairisons. I also have the Haynes manual. There isnt even any that would reach to swap, except the heatercore hoses, and I cant see it making a dif which went in and which went out, anyway. Last couple days were a heat wave, over 40, with 100%radiator coverage, she ran 175, over 135 mi. Heater output better, but hardly needed at
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it has been suggested to check the grounds, as an electric control may be malfunctioning. I can not find anything in the manual that controls the flow.
I am having the same problem with my Jeep Cherokee. Check out my thread. I did spend the $26 For the dealer T-Stat. (waist of money). A lot of people were telling me that I need to Burp the system. I been kinda busy lately and haven’t had time to really do it right. Anyway check out my thread and see if there is any help there for you