Yes @jtsanders Ive thought about this as well… More wear n tear because of the thicker oil… Since I was about 12yrs old I’ve wanted a “Pre-Oiler” even when I had no vehicle to install one into. I think Aircraft engines use them…and always wondered how far a properly maintained engine would go if we had Pre-Oilers to ensure lubricated startups from cold. In fact I still wonder to this day. I have yet to own anything long enough to warrant the experiment, but one day I will install one… Maybe it will be the day when I can justify buying a brand new vehicle…as I have YET to do in this lifetime.
I am of the mind of…“Let someone else take the depreciation hit” when it comes to vehicles. I also buy them broken to save even more money. The money I spend on my vehicles is laughable in every instance…and Dare I say it… Every vehicle Ive ever owned has actually made me money. I buy, repair, drive and enjoy…and sell for more than I purchased it for…every single time. Now that may not mean I make money…but I can dern sure say it doesn’t cost me any money in the end. If you take into account upkeep and fuel…but those things aren’t supposed to be tallied with Vehicle Cost now are they?
I’m going to look up those Oil reports and see how detailed they get…I know the detail is vast, I just haven’t had or needed the information. Again…its probably due to the fact that I don’t keep vehicles too long… I’d say my term in any vehicle is between 5-8 yrs…then its on to something else. If I ever get a lifetime vehicle, something significant…I will install a Pre-Oiler…and get a few Oil reports during its lifetime. Would be interesting to see the results of both actually. Maybe if I get my hands on another E Type Jaguar engine…and I rebuild it…perhaps the Pre-Oiler will find its way onto that engine. Then again…finding another E Type Jag engine in a collapsed old garage in the woods…probably wont happen again.
I’d post my report but its a pdf and I’m not computer savy enough to be able to paint over all the ID information. You can go to Blackstone though and look at a sample to see and its not all that different except for the text message.
How 'bout just going to an electrically driven oil pump.
In addition to pre-oiling the pump speed could be regulated to maintain oil pressure, more efficient than a bypass valve.
Eliminating the belt or gear drive might be more efficient overall.
This probably makes the most sense on a hybrid drivetrain.
On a regular gasser I’d like to see the coolant system used on the Prius that stores hot coolant in a Dewar (Thermos) flask to channel into the engine on a cold start.
"Increasing the viscosity of the oil will just make wear worse since the most most wear occurs at start-up. "
That’s why synthetic is specified for cold temperatures in my Owner’s Manual, because it flows more readily before the engine heats it. Try a pour test in really cold weather… pour some conventional oil and pour some synthetic. Once you see it for yourself, you’ll insist on synthetic of the specified viscosity be used in your vehicle.
To prove this point, my GM Owner’s Manual specifies use of thinner (than the regular warm weather oil), lower viscosity oil, in cold weather, whereas synthetic of the same viscosity is specified for both hot and cold weather.
As I stated earlier, I don’t want to bother having to switch back and forth. CSA
If a motor has variable valve timing then stick to the OEM oil recommendation. Synthetic, mix, or dino oil isn’t the issue in these motors. The variable valves are dependent on the oil viscosity to operate as designed. In these types of motors increasing the oil viscosity as the motor accumulates miles isn’t a good idea.
I don’t think the 4.0 motor in this Jeep is a variable valve motor, but a lot of motors in today’s cars do use variable valve timing setups.
I’m drinking Jenny’s Sister from Frey’s Brewery in Frederick, MD. It’s a barley wine brewed by a US military veteran. In Fred Neck! Hey, that’s what they call Frederick, and proudly, too!
I cannot over emphasize that the real reason, IMO, for the oil test is the information you get on engine condition. Those who say why test when it costs the same as the oil to buy the test, just replace the oil, are correct to some extent.
I did it in the first place, with no idea of the vast amount of information involved as far as engine condition, because of the constant disagreement here on Car Talk just how long oil will last. I found out much longer than most think. I would not want to run EP the 15,000 miles they claim, but it was sure good at 8800.
And, once I saw the report I realized I was missing the true value of the report which is engine condition.
But, yes, it tests for many types of metal contamination, each one related to the part of the motor which is made of that metal. Valve train problems produces one sort of metal. Engine bearings another, and so forth. Also, coolant contamination and blow-by.
The best mechanics don’t probably need such a report. But, us ordinary peons don’t know all that. I remember in my retirement park in McAllen an old timer said he replaced the timing belt on his high mileage Toyota pickup when he could HEAR the noise it makes before it goes.
I am a little skeptical as far as hearing a timing belt getting bad. But, in my 74 years I have learned not to totally doubt an old-timer who has been doing something for many decades. I have eaten crow too many times in my foolish youth when I doubted the word of an old-timer with a lot of experience. Not just crow but really rotten and wormy crow…
Sorry, but others with experience in eating crow know exactly what I mean.
@UncleTurbo My Toyota (2005, 150K Miles) has the sticky VVTI issue and I have tried synthetic and lower weight and not felt any benefit, any thoughts/suggestions.
The only thing I noticed is that the car should not sit for more than 12 hours, so I keep driving it
Like I said, I did the oil test just to see. I think the oil longevity part was another $10 though in addition to the $28 for the basic test. I just may not have studied the report enough to glean all the information so just take what I say with a grain of salt. Outside of the text that said everything was fine and less wear than normal, the rest of it was full of the metal particle readings compared to average. To me it was like reading a water condition report as a layman.
They just didn’t relate the readings to valve train, or rod bearings, or main bearings, etc. that as a casual consumer, I could understand. Maybe its there and I didn’t see it but I probably just didn’t understand it. True you can call the guy up and discuss the report, but I really have no problems and really no reason to do that. I just thought it would be interesting to do.
So at any rate I just didn’t find it all that useful but I’m open to how to interpret the results for a better understanding. I don’t have a technical background so maybe that makes the difference. I can read a balance sheet though where a chemist might have a problem.
Edit: As irlandes pointed out there is a sample report with pop ups telling what each line item refers to so I’ll have to look at that a little closer.
You mean some of you guys dont have access to Yuengling ? Oh my… My friends and I go out to Pottsville PA rather often to camp and ride in “Coal Country”… You can literally get lost or run out of fuel riding Quads and Dirtbikes up there…and guess what is located in town…about 3 miles from the riding area ? Yep…the oldest brewery in the US… If you haven’t been…Its worth the trip and Brewery Tour.
