Circuit, thanks for your time and expertise. If it helps you, I live in SoCal in the high desert, it won’t drop below 70 for months, so no need for variable oil, what is considered thick viscosity and do you know any additives I can use? We will have to go with your “Band-Aid” suggestions as we simply can’t swing engine work, not for a couple of months anyway. I only need my car to drive my son to and from school, barely 10 miles at 35 mph twice a day…I should mention it doesn’t drop to “idiot light” level on cool mornings, only hot afternoons. I also notice my car seems to be running hotter than normal. This engine is famous for running hot, but it’s hotter than normal.
I forgot to tell you, I’m having to top off my coolant pretty frequently, but see no coolant left behind and I don’t smell any… and the car does run hotter than normal (one line below the first warning) on hot days
15W-40 is the way to go, IMHO.
The pressure drops when hot because oil gets thinner as it heats, then oil flows more easily through the engine and the pump can’t keep up.
Replaced the water pump? It’s a bear and requires a special socket. I ended up having the dealer do it. Is your separate water pump belt ok?
Let’s step back.
The oil pump losing it’s prime is very rare
The oil pump bypass spring sometimes sticks open so you
Have low oil pressure. You may get low oil pressure chime/light.
I personally saw it on 2 cars. Both had lifter rattle due to low oil pressure
Motor uses 7.5 qts? That is level you should maintain.
Driving with 8+ qts does nothing for low oil pressure issues like worn bearings
Stock oil is 10w-30? Using 15-40 is ok to make a few more psi.
A leaking oil pressure sender can give false readings AND let oil drip out.
You remove oil filter and replace sender next to it. Easy 10 min job.
Well, it’s easy IF you can reach oil filter.
OP, is there some reason you don’t want to get a shop oil pressure test done? It seems like most of the recommendations here are saying that’s the first step to a resolution of your problem. Until that’s complete it’s going to be hard to know what to do next. Correct me if I’m wrong Cavell, but I don’t think @Cavell 's post above was meant to imply the intake manifold was responsible for OP’s low oil pressure. If it’s a failed part, more likely
- oil pressure sending unit (oil pressure sensor used by the dash gauge)
- oil pressure bypass spring (usually near to or part of the oil pump ass’y)
- oil pump (unlikely)
I doubt the coolant loss problem is related to the low oil pressure as long as there’s not oil in the coolant or visa versa, and the engine has never seriously overheated. Good idea to check that the automatic transmission isn’t where the coolant is going tho, b/c if it is, that could end up to be an expensive transmission repair if allowed to continue. Beyond that, a coolant system pressure test would be the first step for loss of coolant that has no visbly obvious cause. Some auto parts stores will lend or rent you the equipment to do that test yourself.
Rough estimate for oil pressure test . . .
$90 + tax
I’m just basing that on what a typical independent shop in southern California might charge for one hour labor. That’s assuming it’s possible to perform this test in a reasonable amount of time
as I said earlier, I have no idea how easy it is to hook up a mechanical gauge on this engine
Just my two cents but the factory service manual calls for 10w30 oil above zero or 5w30 below 40. If not available, 30 wt can be used above 40 degrees. I don’t think a 15 weight is a good idea.
Thanks much, no I’m totally willing to get a pressure test…no coolant or frothing in the oil (I know enough to recognize a blown head gasket), and we should probably ignore the temp issue as you alluded to, it hasn’t red-lined yet. The sending unit seems unlikely since the car is giving me digital readings that change with the slightest acceleration/slow down, and the numbers coincide with the situation (I’m at 6-8 psi at idle, 55-60 psi at speed). If it was bad, I doubt I’d get such detailed readings. I will follow all the advice, switch to oil that isn’t garbage, use a higher viscosity and put an additive in, have the oil pressure tested… Wish me luck guys, we can’t handle a rebuild now. Thank you.
Thanks Bing. Is there anything heavier than straight 30? I didn’t know if they make an SAE 40
I hear ya, it’s giving me quite specific psi based on my foot on the accelerator (rises to 50+ as it should, falls to 6 psi at idle
Yes, you can buy 40 weight and even 50 weight oil but don’t do that. Don’t do that and stop using straight 30 weight. Any decent multi grade is a better choice, by far. And if you are buying really cheap single weight oil, that is even worse because this engine needs decent, modern, multi-weight oil.
The single weight oils will be extra thick at cold startup (and 70 degrees ambient is still cold to an engine) and will accelerate the demise of your engine and may be making some of the problems you are experiencing worse. I’d try 10W40 to get just a bit thicker oil to delay the demise.
Thanks Bing, yes, I’ll do Pick a Part for everything possible. The tranny slamming into gear seems to stop immediately when I top off the fluid. I don’t think the electrical is related to the ECM or way more items would be failing, I had one go bad on me once. I would love to know what to check on my cruise control if it’s the switch (attached to the turn signal arm) or some sending unit. I always use cruise control to avoid speeding, so I need it. I’d also like to be able to move my damn drivers seat, it can’t be done manually and it quit when I was vacuuming, so it’s too far back
I’m so glad someone else had this car as it’s very unique, and glad you mentioned the belt., I had to change it twice already as a sharp edge inside cuts into it so it gives out faster than normal, why didn’t I remember that!? Did you know the coolant system is integrated? No radiator per-se?
Thanks so much Mustang, I had no idea!
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I’m decent with electrical, fuel systems etc, but I know almost nothing about tranny or engine work
What do you think is causing the car to slam into gear? Adding tranny fluid helps and if I accelerate slowly, it doesn’t happen, if I jump on it…wham! Thanks so much, you have no idea how much this helps my family
I ran a Microbrewery/Restaurant (BJ’s Brewhouse) before I got hit by a Postal truck on my Ninja at 45 mph., I blew 10 discs and will be disabled for life…as you can imagine, my SSI is half my former salary, so we are constantly cutting corners. The car is paid off and I don’t have $3k to rebuild this. Your help is so appreciated.
I should tell you the following;
The cooling system in an Aurora (Norstar) is unique, it’s integrated, so no radiator to fix things there.
I’ve had to change the water pump belt twice in a year, there is a sharp edge that wears it out faster than normal, I forgot to check the tension, it’s been a year or more since the last belt…I used straight water in it when we were really struggling financially (stupid, yes), but I never allowed it to overheat. With 10 blown discs I can’t drive over 30 min at anytime. Can you suggest an additive to the oil crankcase? One gentleman said “STP” but not sure if that’s still considered a good one.?
Hey DB,
It’s both leaking and burning it, the stain on the street is far too small to be a serious leak. 2) I was run down by a Postal truck on my Ninja, I blew 10 discs, wear a Morphine patch and take Vicodin like they were breath mints…
I hope and pray your situation works out and you heal soon.
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