# Oem strut “quality” **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [February 12, 2026, 3:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161 "2026-02-12T15:05:11Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 19\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 3:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/1 "2026-02-12T15:05:11Z")
Kid has broke front coil spring in 2015 pilot. Bottom loop. Not middle. I reached in and removed loose bit and occasional rattle is mostly gone. Honda changed strut design in 2015/2016 for strut design but that’s side issue. Honda was $100 for 1 coil. A Kyb assy is $150 approx. some sites mention spring color ID. Blue or orange or so on. Many sites don’t mention color. Some ask model? Lx or ex or touring. Or try “generic” Amazon brand for $90? Depends how you search online. Ask for kyb and I got a pair for $859 but ad was vague and not clear on years. But, it’s the internet. Folks charge whatever they want. How do you confidently get a proper replacement for a specific year and model trim? ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 3:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/2 "2026-02-12T15:12:23Z")
Have you tried rockauto? ---
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 3:27pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/3 "2026-02-12T15:27:33Z")
Yes. RA has budget, Monroe and kyb. Kyb is for kayaba research. I guess removing vowels is how you arrive at trademark? For simplicity I’d rather just get a good spring. Used struts are $40 at junkyard too. Hard to find single springs. Most have pairs online. Or buy 1 spring from dealer. ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 3:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/4 "2026-02-12T15:32:16Z")
I would not replace one spring, the other may be close to failing, and won’t match the new one, regardless. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 3:38pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/5 "2026-02-12T15:38:26Z")
The shop where the son works at will no longer install KYB struts in vehicles because of too many come-backs. The quality of these products gotten so bad after the pandemic that if you get over 2,000 miles before they’re shot you’re considered lucky. > **[Worst Strut Brands To Avoid: Don't Waste Your Money](https://glennsaid.com/strut-brands-to-avoid/)** > > Replacing your suspension? Don't buy junk. We reveal the strut brands with the highest failure rates and poorest ride quality to help you avoid a dangerous and costly mistake. Tester ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 4:00pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/6 "2026-02-12T16:00:23Z")
So how about the Monroe quick struts for about $225 the pair? ---
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 4:34pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/7 "2026-02-12T16:34:30Z")
so, kyb today is poor quality. vs 10 yrs ago? seems everyone says monroe is the same. used to be good but just more cheap ■■■■ from china now. an oem, used, not broke strut will have an oem, not broke spring. should be “worn” ok. the car came from new hampshire. or maine. midwest dealer figured out how to buy cheap scruffy east coast cars and sell them in the midwest to rubes. seems all new autoparts are suspect now. it says “oem”. gotta be good. ---
**Author:** ![davesmopar](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/davesmopar/32/41750_2.png) [@davesmopar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/davesmopar)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 6:24pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/8 "2026-02-12T18:24:02Z")
I for one would not look at Amazon for vehicle parts in general, find what you want at an auto parts house (including RA) and then check to see if Amazon sells it… I, depending on vehicle, use Monroe… Very few come backs with them… As far as the coil spring goes, always do them in pairs, the age, mileage and spring sag will be different, even used, the vehicle in the junk yard could have hit many potholes and speed bumps and or hauled weight around in it… ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bing/32/4619_2.png) [@bing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 8:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/9 "2026-02-12T20:05:01Z")
I bought the Monroe quick struts but took a lot of heat for it. Likely the last I’ll ever buy for that car and the quick strut selection was limited. If I’m doing it myself I would only do the quick version. The Monroe have been fine. Depends but if the stabilizer link is attached, I had to cut them off and replace them. Yeah do both left and right. I think I paid less than $300 for everything and all four. ---
**Author:** ![ChrisTheTireWhisperer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/christhetirewhisperer/32/34798_2.png) [@ChrisTheTireWhisperer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ChrisTheTireWhisperer)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2026, 11:30pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/10 "2026-02-12T23:30:24Z")
> [@bing](#): > > I bought the Monroe quick struts but took a lot of heat for it. Domestic heat? 😂 ---
**Author:** ![asemaster](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/5f9b8f/32.png) [@asemaster](https://community.cartalk.com/u/asemaster)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 12:19am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/11 "2026-02-13T00:19:48Z")
I would replace with an aftermarket assembly, but only in pairs. The aftermarket will consolidate part numbers that may result in slight differences that are not noticeable if replaced in pairs. For example, the Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable had different front springs, but the Monroe Quick-Strut was the same part number for either car. By the time a car gets new struts, the slight difference in spring rate from one model to another wouldn’t be noticed, but I wouldn’t replace just one side. ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bing/32/4619_2.png) [@bing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 2:50am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/12 "2026-02-13T02:50:22Z")
Heat from the car talk members. ---
**Author:** ![ChrisTheTireWhisperer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/christhetirewhisperer/32/34798_2.png) [@ChrisTheTireWhisperer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ChrisTheTireWhisperer)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 3:45am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/13 "2026-02-13T03:45:21Z")
Why, what’s wrong with Monroes? ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bing/32/4619_2.png) [@bing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 4:06am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/14 "2026-02-13T04:06:30Z")
You’ll have to ask the boys. I’ve used them for about 50 years, but I got a discount. ---
**Author:** ![ChrisTheTireWhisperer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/christhetirewhisperer/32/34798_2.png) [@ChrisTheTireWhisperer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ChrisTheTireWhisperer)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 11:59am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/15 "2026-02-13T11:59:32Z")
I am assuming Monroe makes shocks at different price points and performance levels. In the early 1990s I had a set of their basic shocks put in the '81 Buick Century I mentioned here before, the one I drove during college. Initially, the ride was stiff, but after a week or so it wore in, and the car felt more confident and intuitive to drive. ---
**Author:** ![TwinTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/8baadc/32.png) [@TwinTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/TwinTurbo)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 1:18pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/16 "2026-02-13T13:18:34Z")
> [@Cavell](#): > > How do you confidently get a proper replacement for a specific year and model trim? I use those details to complete the fitment guide offered on most decent parts sites. There are usually web sites selling parts specific to a manufacturer. Honda OEM parts for example. Once I know the OEM part number, I can search far and wide for who sells them. Most aftermarket retailers have cross-reference fitment guides as well once you know the OEM part number… ---
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 4:42pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/17 "2026-02-13T16:42:58Z")
Dealer only sells parts. No complete struts. They want $325 for bare strut. And $100 for spring. And strut mount. So it’s almost $500 from dealer stock and no one online has “cheaper” “Honda” parts. I think Monroe assy was $150 and kyb was $250? Approx. buying a set was a bit cheaper per unit. ---
**Author:** ![davesmopar](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/davesmopar/32/41750_2.png) [@davesmopar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/davesmopar)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2026, 5:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/18 "2026-02-13T17:50:19Z")
> [@ChrisTheTireWhisperer](#): > > I am assuming Monroe makes shocks at different price points and performance levels. Yes they mostly do, I have found that the, what I call the 7 series (17yyy, or 27yyy, or 37yyy) are the good ones, but the 8 series (my name for them lol)(18yy, 28yyy or 38yyy) ones not so much… OESpectrum is the 7 series line and RoadMatic/private label is the 8 series line… ---
**Author:** ![mdixter](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/e36b37/32.png) [@mdixter](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mdixter)\ **Post date:** [February 15, 2026, 12:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/oem-strut-quality/205161/19 "2026-02-15T12:32:43Z")
At the price differences you are quoting, why not just go with OEM? At least they’d stand by the fit.