The data you posted is called freeze frame data. That is the data at the time the code was detected. Sometimes it helps, but often it doesn’t.
Keith!,
You give me hope. Thanks
I get my 02 sensor tomorrow and we’ll see how it gos. However, if I need to replace the cat, I think I might try putting another direct-fit one on myself.
With these car ramps I have it’s so easy to get under my car and throw in the mechanic’s slide I bought, I could probably install the new 02 sensor in 5 minutes! Unfortunately car ramps are only good for changing the oil, transmission fluid and the emissions stuff I’m working on now.
Here is the simple solution. Read the link completely. You will pass emissions, the code will go away. You use a “non fouler plug” to pull the 02 sensor slightly out of the stream. It then reads "normal. The Honda tuners all do it, I have done it on my Volvo and it worked like a charm…all the rest of the solutions and attempts to unplug the cat will get you nowhere. This is a $10, 1hr DIY fix that works about 90% of the time.
Good luck…
Anyone know if the OEM cat for my 96’ Honda has a ceramic filter or a steel one? I was thinking of giving it the ol’ tapp’eroo with my small rubber mallet and seeing if that helps it along any.
(Just in case the 02 sensor doesn’t solve my problem)
If at first you don’t succeed, try a bigger hammer…
WARNING! Extra Effort, Special Tools or Destructive Force may be needed to complete this job…
HondaHonda, I have no idea why I am typing it again. You have a P0420 code. You still seem to think this is caused by a clog - or something you could physically clear up. Its not.
That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t tap on it. Tap away. But it always works best if you scatter the ashes of eye of newt over some strategically placed chicken bones. I believe there is also a TSB that specifies the magic works best on the last quarter of a waning moon.
Honda, at this point you’ve destroyed any chance whatsoever of coming out of this with an operable converter by pouring seafoam directly into it. The catalytic coating in the converter’s core must be reasonably clean to make molecule-to-molecule contact with the NOx. Those huge clouds of smoke you saw after your experiment were coming from the Seafoam cooking onto the catalytic coating, rendering it useless. Chances are about 99.9997% that the burning seafoam’s smoke residue has also destroyed your downstream oxygen sensor, which also need to be clean to work. And your upstream one if the seafoam was introduced foreward of the sensor.
At this point there’s absolutely nothing you can do to save these parts. And there’s probably residue in the exhaust pipes now that’ll ruin replacements. If you still plan to fix the car, you’re now looking at starting with an entire exhaust system.
Just as an FYI, the cores are all ceramic. I don’t believe a process exists to sputter the platinum-palladium onto metal with a tenacious enough bond to survive the environment.
Hondahonda cannot be accused of being wishy-washy and indecisive, heh, heh. It might be said he should be sure what he is doing first, though.
I checked live frame on my 2002 Sienna, which last summer had the bad cat code, then started working.
When warmed up:
Bank 1 Sensor 1 3.358 volts (Not sure, suspect this will vary by sensor???)
Bank 2 Sensor 1 3.273 volts
Bank 1 Sensor 2 bounces around, as low as 0.100, as high as 0.700 volts when warmed up. This is correct operation, lots of crud coming out of motor, after passing a heated CAT, drops very low.
If you can get the CAT off, why not try tossing it in water with laundry soap in it over night? I sure have no idea what SeaFoam does, but Scott Kilmer says this is the approved way to clean one, and that he has done it many times. At this point, you have naught to lose, seems to me.