# Non-Mickey-Mouse car battery tie down method? **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [March 1, 2017, 3:02am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614 "2017-03-01T03:02:43Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 3:02am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/1 "2017-03-01T03:02:43Z")
All the vehicles I’ve owned have used a mickey mouse battery tie down method. Not robust. True of my current vehicles, Ford truck and Corolla. On both there’s a sort of L shaped vertical oriented spindly rod that hooks underneath the battery tray in an iffy and imprecise manner, and from the top of that rod, a horizontal bracket over the top of the battery to the grill area. No good, no good at all. Too fiddly to deal with. If I want to tighten the vertical rod, the twisting motion causes it to lose its hold down under. And too easy for the whole works to come loose when hitting a pothole. What’s more, the bracket and rod both have sharp edges that poke at the battery case. Is there a better arrangement? I’m thinking a ratcheting fabric hold down strap would be much better. What do you think? ---
**Author:** ![thegreendrag0n](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/thegreendrag0n/32/9265_2.png) [@thegreendrag0n](https://community.cartalk.com/u/thegreendrag0n)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 3:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/2 "2017-03-01T03:05:05Z")
I’ve seen the one where battery has tabs/wedges sticking out slightly on the base and one side would go into a crevice, another side will be tied down with a holder, retained by one screw/ Much better design in my opinion ---
**Author:** ![VOLVO-V70](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/8e8cbc/32.png) [@VOLVO-V70](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VOLVO-V70)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 3:07am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/3 "2017-03-01T03:07:48Z")
> [@GeorgeSanJose](#): > > I’m thinking a ratcheting fabric hold down strap would be much better. Fabric rots, stretches and there might not be room to wrap it around. What do I think? Answer: silly and impractical idea. ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 3:11am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/4 "2017-03-01T03:11:04Z")
I don’t see this as a problem w/the battery design @andriy.fomenko . It’s the hold down method that’s the problem. Metal brackets? With battery acid? Why would anyone think that’s a good idea? On my Corolla at least they use a plastic tray for underneath the battery. But it’s such a flimsy plastic tray when the brackets come loose, the battery can easily move over the edge of the tray. In fact that’s exactly what got me to thinking about this subject. I recently did my 6 month battery maintenance on the Corolla and discovered the brackets has come loose and the battery was hanging 4 inches over the edge of the tray. ---
**Author:** ![thegreendrag0n](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/thegreendrag0n/32/9265_2.png) [@thegreendrag0n](https://community.cartalk.com/u/thegreendrag0n)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 3:42am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/5 "2017-03-01T03:42:33Z")
> [@GeorgeSanJose](#): > > I don’t see this as a problem w/the battery design @andriy.fomenko . It’s the hold down method that’s the problem. Metal brackets? With battery acid? I don’t think you will get anything better than original design without too much work. Rods may come loose if their “hooks” are unbent, so it may be a good idea to make them “hookier” ? Also, it looks like $10-15 will get a new tie-down on ebay for Corolla if old one is too corroded. As for acid, I always attach felt pads under terminals, saturated with that special grease you buy for $1 in parts store for battery terminals: keeps acid from spreading to terminals and around ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 4:52am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/6 "2017-03-01T04:52:41Z")
A little Googling shows someone has apparently already thought of this and done a diy’er version. Looks pretty robust for a hack. That battery ain’t moving. ![](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/a/a43d036e65a7a2fb377ce4a1f4fc9c9abbef71e6.jpg) ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bing/32/4619_2.png) [@bing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 5:04am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/7 "2017-03-01T05:04:40Z")
I actually can’t tell you what I have now but in the past I had the type that mounts at the base. Never had a problem with it. The hooks were also not much of a problem. The hook at the bottom though should point to the outside not the inside and you just hold it up while you wind the nut down by hand. Then tighten it up. I used to use baking soda every year or so on the battery pan but still had to replace one-available at the dealer. ---
**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 5:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/8 "2017-03-01T05:05:25Z")
That is beautiful and labeled “White trash repairs”. I was afraid you might use your old shoe laces. There are boat and RV battery cases that use a strap but the strap is on the outside of a separate battery case, not exposed to leaking acid. There are millions of cars driving around with common battery hold down hardware without trouble, perhaps it is time for new J-hooks and a hold down bracket. Note the HID conversion ballast in the picture, that must be a sweet ride. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 5:12am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/9 "2017-03-01T05:12:01Z")
That’s a good idea George. It has a dual function. Not only is the ratchet strap holding the battery down, but if you ever need a tow, all you need to do is unravel all that extra strap, tie it onto a bumper of another vehicle, and tow the vehicle by the battery and tray! Tester ---
**Author:** ![oldtimer-11](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e79b87/32.png) [@oldtimer-11](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldtimer-11)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 5:15am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/10 "2017-03-01T05:15:13Z")
Most of the chrysler products I have owned for the last 30 years have used the one bolt with a tapered steel wedge. Very simple and secure. In the past when I had the hook and rod and it broke or rusted through , I just used a short rubber truckers bungee cord with the metal s hooks on each end. ---
**Author:** ![NYBo](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nybo/32/17281_2.png) [@NYBo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/NYBo)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 5:16am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/11 "2017-03-01T05:16:22Z")
[quote=“GeorgeSanJose, post:1, topic:100614, full:true”] On both there’s a sort of L shaped vertical oriented spindly rod that hooks underneath the battery tray in an iffy and imprecise manner…[/quote]I think you missed the proper attachment point, which should be rather robust. Once there is tension on the j-hook, it won’t come out of the hole, and can hold the battery quite securely. Make sure you haven’t hooked into the plastic tray. ---
**Author:** ![meanjoe75fan](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/meanjoe75fan/32/552_2.png) [@meanjoe75fan](https://community.cartalk.com/u/meanjoe75fan)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 8:47am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/12 "2017-03-01T08:47:50Z")
Sulfuric acid is an excellent dessicating agent, too. I’d expect that the second battery acid hit fabric, life expectancy could be measured in days. At least iron takes months to a year to corrode away! ---
**Author:** ![johnbarry](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/johnbarry/32/4779_2.png) [@johnbarry](https://community.cartalk.com/u/johnbarry)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 10:55am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/13 "2017-03-01T10:55:30Z")
I used to smear the terminals with Vaseline. Seemed to do the job ok. ---
**Author:** ![BillRussell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/billrussell/32/3179_2.png) [@BillRussell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/BillRussell)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 12:18pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/14 "2017-03-01T12:18:39Z")
I’d try heavy duty long cable ties. here are some 36" ones from amazon. [https://www.amazon.com/USA-Strong-Cable-Strength-Industrial/dp/B01KBAC1AA/ref=sr\_1\_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1488370536&sr=8-5&keywords=cable+ties+large](https://www.amazon.com/USA-Strong-Cable-Strength-Industrial/dp/B01KBAC1AA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1488370536&sr=8-5&keywords=cable+ties+large) ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 12:33pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/15 "2017-03-01T12:33:38Z")
Both my mustangs had a nylon strap arrangement running over the battery and terminated at one end with a bolted connection. When the bolt was tightened the strap was snugged down. Other cars have a wedge blocks that loaded the lower tap on the side of the battery with a matching tab on the backside grabbing the battery. Those work really well The J-hooks are actually pretty good if combined with a battery tray that fits the battery snugly so it won’t slide around. ---
**Author:** ![Whitey](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/whitey/32/24680_2.png) [@Whitey](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Whitey)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 2:28pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/16 "2017-03-01T14:28:07Z")
> [@VOLVO\_V70](#): > > Fabric rots, stretches and there might not be room to wrap it around. What do I think? Answer: silly and impractical idea. On a motor home my mother used to own, the original house battery was secured with a strap, but I had to cut it to get the old battery out. In its place, I bought some climbing rope and tied the battery down. I replaced that rope each time I replaced the battery. ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 3:02pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/17 "2017-03-01T15:02:46Z")
George, since this is a ‘thing’ with you, why not do some preventative maintenance on the j-hooks? Either replace them and spray them with a protectant, or wire brush them off and spray them. I’ve never had them come off while tightening as long as the nut could turn freely. ---
**Author:** ![eddo](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/eddo/32/2594_2.png) [@eddo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/eddo)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 4:04pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/18 "2017-03-01T16:04:03Z")
> [@meanjoe75fan](#): > > Sulfuric acid is an excellent dessicating agent, too. I’d expect that the second battery acid hit fabric, life expectancy could be measured in days. At least iron takes months to a year to corrode away! my thoughts exactly ---
**Author:** ![Propane\_Car](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/propane_car/32/6561_2.png) [@Propane\_Car](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Propane_Car)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 4:23pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/19 "2017-03-01T16:23:34Z")
I use bungee cords when I loose the factory mickey mouse battery clamps or when I replace the battery with one that does not fit into the factory mickey mouse battery clamp. ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [March 1, 2017, 4:26pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614/20 "2017-03-01T16:26:46Z")
> [@Propane\_Car](#): > > I use bungee cords I wouldn’t. Could let the battery fly on a big bump or crash, and could deteriorate (rapidly) with acid. [Next page](https://community.cartalk.com/t/non-mickey-mouse-car-battery-tie-down-method/100614.md?page=2)