Do not have it towed back to the same shop. They are just chasing their tails and really don’t know what to do. At this point I’d only tow it to a Chevy dealer service dept. It may cost more, but they will find and fix the real problem.
All the money you’ve spent so far has been fruitless. If you had gone to the dealer in the 1st place you’d have spent less at this point and be ahead of the game. The dealer techs have specific equipment and TSB’s (technical service bulletins) and just more experience with your particular car, meaning they may have seen this problem before and know what to do about it.
Your problem is intermittent, and is heat related. Meaning when the car is cold some component works properly. But when the defective part is hot it isn’t working. This is actually a common issue with many electronic parts because they expand and contract due to the heat. The problem is electrical, it is just a matter of tracking down what part is the culprit. The crank sensor mentioned by other posters is a good prospect as the cause of all this mayhem.
I never heard of a “diagnostic test” that recommended replacing the fuse block as a repair…There is no OBD-2 diagnostic code that points to the fuse block as a solution…
I’d be looking at the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, ignition module, crank position sensor, cam position sensor…
To diagnose it, the shop must have the car when it will not start! If it starts fine when at the shop, there is nothing for them to diagnose…
The mechanic said that the computer diagnostic test pointed at the pcm one time, and another time it said it was the ignition, and another time that it was the relay. Sometimes the car has just started running so the engine is still cold, and other times it has been running for some time so the engine is hot. We got it back from the mechanic yesterday after being in the shop for 5 days and it seemed to be working, and then today it did something completely new…it shut off as my husband was driving around a corner so the power steering didn’t work but he was able to pull over.
I asked the mechanic about it again and he says that the computer shows a .5 volt drop and that causes it to lose the signal to the fuel pump and the fuel shuts off, but he doesn’t know why it’s doing it and can’t find anything.