# No!heat!

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** montero, heating, mitsubishi\
**Created:** [January 6, 2010, 7:54pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979 "2010-01-06T19:54:24Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 8\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![smackdown](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/c6cbf5/32.png) [@smackdown](https://community.cartalk.com/u/smackdown)\
**Post date:** [January 6, 2010, 7:54pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979/1 "2010-01-06T19:54:24Z")

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I HAVE A 2000 MONTERO SPORT LIM 3.5 AT IDLE I HAVE NO HEAT IT’S COOL BUT @ 1500 PLUS RPM I HAVE IT 100%…I CHANGED THE THURMO AND THE WATER PUMP STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM!!! ANY ANSWERS???

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**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\
**Post date:** [January 6, 2010, 8:01pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979/2 "2010-01-06T20:01:38Z")

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Please turn your caps lock off.

My guess is that the heater core is coated inside with residue.

But…is the engine itself cooling down at idle? If so your new thermostat may be stuck open.

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**Author:** ![bennyandthejets](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/b487fb/32.png) [@bennyandthejets](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bennyandthejets)\
**Post date:** [January 6, 2010, 8:02pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979/3 "2010-01-06T20:02:03Z")

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First you have to figure out if your heater core is plugged or if you have a problem with your blend door. Feel the two hoses going into the firewall (from engine compartment) to your heater core. If they are both hot, about the same temp, then your heater core is probably fine, and you have a blend door not working properly. This involves spending time on your back in the most uncomfortable position you can imagine figuring out where your blend door is and fixing or repairing a door actuator or HVAC control head. Good luck.

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**Author:** ![smackdown](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/c6cbf5/32.png) [@smackdown](https://community.cartalk.com/u/smackdown)\
**Post date:** [January 6, 2010, 8:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979/4 "2010-01-06T20:10:02Z")

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Thanx for the help sorry about the caps…@ idle the temp it normal

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**Author:** ![cigroller](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/c68b51/32.png) [@cigroller](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cigroller)\
**Post date:** [January 6, 2010, 8:42pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979/5 "2010-01-06T20:42:57Z")

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Another thing that would do this is air trapped in the cooling system, though if it was also there before the recent work then there is some other issue that would allow the air in.

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**Author:** ![smackdown](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/c6cbf5/32.png) [@smackdown](https://community.cartalk.com/u/smackdown)\
**Post date:** [January 7, 2010, 1:52am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979/6 "2010-01-07T01:52:04Z")

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yea the prob was there before and still there after

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**Author:** ![smackdown](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/c6cbf5/32.png) [@smackdown](https://community.cartalk.com/u/smackdown)\
**Post date:** [January 7, 2010, 1:52am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979/7 "2010-01-07T01:52:30Z")

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thanz foe the advice

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**Author:** ![hellokit](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/6a8cbe/32.png) [@hellokit](https://community.cartalk.com/u/hellokit)\
**Post date:** [January 7, 2010, 3:08am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-heat/41979/8 "2010-01-07T03:08:08Z")

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Your repair manual, Haynes, Chilton’s, etc., will show how to bleed the air from the cooling system. On some vehicles, it helps to run the front wheel upon ramps to raise the radiator tank higher than the engine block; thus, easier to bleed.
