# No crank start in a 2005 Honda accord **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** accord, honda\ **Created:** [May 4, 2025, 10:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-crank-start-in-a-2005-honda-accord/200121 "2025-05-04T22:41:51Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 8\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![josephcaseyjjc\_193552](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/fbc32d/32.png) [@josephcaseyjjc\_193552](https://community.cartalk.com/u/josephcaseyjjc_193552)\ **Post date:** [May 4, 2025, 10:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-crank-start-in-a-2005-honda-accord/200121/1 "2025-05-04T22:41:51Z")
I’m having a frustrating start-up issue with my 2005 Honda Accord LX (2.4 L, automatic). Here’s what’s happening: • No Crank / No Noise – Turning the key does absolutely nothing—no click, no cranking, just silence. • Key Gets Stuck – The ignition key often won’t release; I have to jiggle it or disconnect the battery to pull it out. • Green “Security” Key Light Flashing – The dash security/immobilizer icon blinks continuously instead of going out. • Green “D” Gear Indicator Flashing – The “D” on the instrument cluster flashes green, even when parked. • Shift-Lock Bypass – I can move the shifter out of Park without pressing the brake pedal. • What I’ve Tried 1. Key Reprogramming: Had all keys re-programmed—no change. 2. Battery & Connections: Battery reads ~12.6 V at rest; terminals are clean and tight. 3. Brake Lights: Function normally when pedal is pressed. 4. OBD2 Scan: No stored fault codes. I suspect the STOP-lamp fuse, brake-light switch, shift-lock solenoid, neutral‐safety (range) switch or immobilizer loop might be at fault—but I’m not sure where to begin. ---
**Author:** ![bcohen2010](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/779978/32.png) [@bcohen2010](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bcohen2010)\ **Post date:** [May 4, 2025, 10:46pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-crank-start-in-a-2005-honda-accord/200121/2 "2025-05-04T22:46:16Z")
Remember that battery voltage could be a mere “surface charge”, and there might not actually be current available to start the car. Without trying a different (known good) battery, you cannot rule out the most simple cause: a dead battery. Has this car given problems before, which would suggest that something more complicated than a new battery is needed? ---
**Author:** ![bcohen2010](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/779978/32.png) [@bcohen2010](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bcohen2010)\ **Post date:** [May 4, 2025, 10:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-crank-start-in-a-2005-honda-accord/200121/3 "2025-05-04T22:50:41Z")
> [@josephcaseyjjc\_193552](#): > > I suspect the STOP-lamp fuse, brake-light switch, shift-lock solenoid, neutral‐safety (range) switch or immobilizer loop might be at fault—but I’m not sure where to begin. Well, I went through something similar with my 2002 Daewoo Lanos. The problem was intermittent at first, and related to the weather. At first, I thought it was the transmission range sensor (basically like a neutral safety switch, though it also tells the PCM which gear you’re in). I replaced that, and the problem continued. Then I got out the factory service manual, traced the starter signal wire back to the PCM, and assumed it was a bad PCM. So I replaced that, and the problem continued. Then I replaced the ignition switch, problem continued. This car doesn’t have an immobilizer, so I didn’t have to worry about that. What ultimately solved the problem was a new starter, which required pulling the brake master cylinder, pulling the coolant expansion tank, pulling the intake manifold, pulling the fuel rail out of the engine, etc. Probably the hardest-to-replace starter I have ever seen, though I heard replacing the starter on a Chevette is even more difficult. ---
**Author:** ![josephcaseyjjc\_193552](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/fbc32d/32.png) [@josephcaseyjjc\_193552](https://community.cartalk.com/u/josephcaseyjjc_193552)\ **Post date:** [May 4, 2025, 10:57pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-crank-start-in-a-2005-honda-accord/200121/4 "2025-05-04T22:57:51Z")
Yes the battery is new and shows good voltage when the ignition is on ---
**Author:** ![jtsanders](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c2a13f/32.png) [@jtsanders](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jtsanders)\ **Post date:** [May 5, 2025, 12:13am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-crank-start-in-a-2005-honda-accord/200121/5 "2025-05-05T00:13:44Z")
Can you put the transmission in neutral? If so, try starting in neutral. If it works, then you need a new neutral safety switch. ---
**Author:** ![josephcaseyjjc\_193552](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/fbc32d/32.png) [@josephcaseyjjc\_193552](https://community.cartalk.com/u/josephcaseyjjc_193552)\ **Post date:** [May 6, 2025, 8:25pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-crank-start-in-a-2005-honda-accord/200121/6 "2025-05-06T20:25:53Z")
I replaced it already didn’t fix it ---
**Author:** ![JoeTro](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/13edae/32.png) [@JoeTro](https://community.cartalk.com/u/JoeTro)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2025, 12:01am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-crank-start-in-a-2005-honda-accord/200121/7 "2025-05-13T00:01:34Z")
Well certainly the shift-interlock solenoid is suspect, as it would give you a number of those symptoms. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2025, 12:11am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/no-crank-start-in-a-2005-honda-accord/200121/8 "2025-05-13T00:11:40Z")
> **[5 Common Symptoms of a Failing Body Control Module (BCM) - Module Experts](https://moduleexperts.com/5-common-symptoms-failing-body-control-module-bcm/)** > > If your BCM malfunctions, you will notice a negative effect on the operation of your vehicle. Watch out for these symptoms. Tester