Not knowing an answer to something always bugs me to no end also. Much like the set of Ford main bearings I brought up for discussion earlier this year and which involved some way different manufacturing tolerances and to this day still don’t have a clear cut answer as to why.
If I can find a back pressure gauge that will screw into the 02 sensor port on my pre cats, will that be a better way to test them than the vacuum test?
The back pressure test is not necessarily better; just another method.
My preference is the vacuum gauge simply because it’s much faster and easier to do from up top without the need to unscrew anything. The only thing that needs to be done is to plug into a vacuum line anywhere on the intake. Teeing into a fuel pressure regulator vacuum line is one example.
Hello Nisaan11-
It has been 3 years since this thread…hope you are still out there…I have had the exact same problem with my 2007 Nissan Frontier…did you ever resolve this issue with your Frontier.
Regards
Enoch
Nissan 11 has left the building. I really wish there was a way to keep old threads inactive.
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I would like to hear from @nissan11 again should he receive an email. I don’t understand why communication between people with similar vehicles is not welcomed. Is this message board only dedicated to political and global warming debates? The silly smiley face posts illustrate why there should be a 20 character minimum.
Hey guys, thanks for the email. I have not had any luck getting to the bottom of my issue. In fact, on two occasions in the last couple of weeks I noticed the temp gauge getting up over 220 degrees, once while idling in 85 degree, humid weather with the AC on, and once while driving steady down the road at 45 mph on an 80 degree, less humid day. This seems to indicate the issue is slowly getting worse.
On the flip side, last April I towed a 2000 lb trailer 5 hours each way on an ATV riding trip and had no issue with it running warm, but, it was in the 60’s and 70’s on both drives. I am getting ready to make the same trip in 3 weeks and expect the truck to run much warmer this time.
What I do plan to do this fall is go to NAPA and purchase a radiator from a super charged frontier or xterra which has a two row core. I do not know if this will help, but it cant hurt. I will report back how the normal operating temperature compares between the single row and double row units.
Aside form that, after everything I have tried I only see one other option, which would be a much thicker, aftermarket aluminum radiator, to remove the factory fan and clutch and go to an electric puller fan unit of greater capacity.
OK, the original OP has not solved their problem after all this time so what good is this old thread ? The new person would be better served just starting a thread of their own. That will eliminate wading through all this thread and wasting time.
Volvo, you don’t think there is useful troubleshooting information in this thread?
You must be EXTREMELY knowledgeable in mechanics.
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I read this thread yesterday & one thing that caught my attention was that an 02 sensor was replaced because of a code . If I remember correctly that code was for catalyst system below efficiency threshold . I know that it was suggested that the system be checked for a restriction . I don’t remember it being stated that this was done although it might have .
I replaced both o2 sensors on bank 2 and have not gotten another code.
I never checked the exhaust system other than the intake vacuum check.
Haven’t you ever heard the saying a picture is worth a thousand words?
That’s 50x the minimum requirement!
I understood exactly what he was saying without wasting any more bandwidth than absolutely necessary.
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I would suggest that possibility be definitely eliminated before progressing further .
How do you suggest I eliminate the exhaust system as being the culprit with 100% certainty?
I haven’t read through the whole thread again, but overheating during long idles is often caused by one of these
- The radiator fan isn’t spinning, or isn’t spinning fast enough. Shops have gadgets that can measure the fan speed usually.
- The cooling system isn’t holding pressure like it should. Shops can do a pressure test and test the radiator cap too.
- The radiator is clogged internally, or the fins are clogged w/debris.
The fan is spinning at the correct speed and the cooling system holds pressure. These things were checked by two different dealerships.
The radiator and condenser are perfectly clean, as replacing the radiator and cleaning the condenser were two of the first things I did.
If you have normal power, a restricted exhaust is unlikely.
Most mysterious overheating (i.e., everything else has been replaced) leads to a small head gasket leak.
I like the radiator idea. I had one car that did not have the strength metal coil in the lower radiator hose, the hose would collapse on itself because the water pump demand was higher than the capacity of the radiator. A better hose took care of the problem
Concur w/ @insightful , I don’t think this is a restricted exhaust either. One way to test if a restricted exhaust is the cause is just disconnect the exhaust system and see if it overheats then. This is a pretty loud experiment though. Another way is to have a shop test the exhaust back pressure. You can also get an idea if exhaust back pressure is a problem by measuring the the intake manifold vacuum. If it reads 14 or less, you may have an exhaust problem and more tests are needed; 15-18, marginal, but probably the exhaust is ok; 18-22 normal, the exhaust is very unlikely to be restricted.
You’d already done a chemical test for exhaust gasses in the coolant, right? And checked the ignition timing at idle is at spec, and that it advances to spec at higher rpms? And that the mixture isn’t running overly lean?
If I had this problem, measuring the intake manifold vacuum at idle (when it is overheating at idle) is probably what I’d do next. If that tested ok, I think I’d probably replace the radiator like you mention above, a high coolilng capacity radiator rated for towing. If that still didn’t solve the problem, you probably have a problem that only occurs when certain parts get hot enough, which is allowing the cooling system to lose pressure, or hot exhaust to get into the coolant. Even so, that’s still a possibility I think. The shop may have to rig up a way so you can watch the cooling system pressure while you drive.