New Plugs and Wires but Still Misfires?

Thinking like gsragtop here, what about fuel delivery? Clogged injectors or some water in the fuel? Did this bad run condition start right after a fill up maybe?

Your Buick has a Coil On Plug (COP system with the firing of each coil controlled by the ECU through an Ignition Control Module (see below link). I’ve attached a link describing such a system for your perusal. Basically, the ECU takes engine demand signals from sensors that measure the crank speed and position, the amount of air being drawn into the intake, the temperature of the engine, the speed of the engine, the position of the gas pedal, the oxygen levels in the exhaust, perhaps the absolute pressure of the manifold, and the spped of the vehicle, and runs them through a program that determines exactly when to provide gas and to fire each sparkplug. It momentarily at the right time enables the injectors to fire and enables the 12VDC circuit to the primaryof each sparkplug. In addition, it also controls the solenoid that opens the ENG valve when appropriate.

To diagnose this problem you’d need to be able to check the signals from these various sensors, check the fuel line pressure (that you should be able to do with a manual and an inexpensive test kit from the part store), and understand how it’s all working. I think you either have a sensor not providing a reliable signal (perhaps the crank sensor) or even a dying fuel pump.

I’ll be very honest; your statement “I am not sure but i dont think I have a distributor car/ rotor assembly…I think I have a ignition coil packs but I am not sure if that even has the same function as what you are talking about” suggests to me that you’ll probably save a lot of aggrevation by taking the Buick in to a good shop and letting them diagnose and repair it. I commend you for wanting to do your own work, but getting to the cause of the problem described is probably going to take an understanding of ignition systems as well as engine management systms.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1371079&parttype=4516&a=BIc1371079k96986-2039700-0

I want to thank all of you for all the info I have to read thru this stuff and digest before i determine what it may be. I will keep you posted. thanks!

I try to start it a little while ago and It feels like I am not getting any fuel to my engine so i think it may be a fuel filter/ pump or injectors? I cant even get it started now. And no offense to any working mechanic that doesnt rip people off. If your honest and have no guilty conscience you should have not have taken my comment personally. From the consumers point of view (I do think as well as others) that alot of mechanics are overpaid and dishonest. I do understand that some car problems are hard diagnose and repair at first glance but honestly I meant no disrespect just stating and opinion. I have had many mechanics overcharge me for the simplest stuff…like I paid 400 dollars once to replace 1 ball joint, just the ball joint, nothing else. I did research and found out the ball joint alone only cost 40 bucks and the whole assembly with control arm is only 90. And I know for a fact it doesnt take 3 hrs at 95 dollars an hr to fix it. I can do it in 45 mins! This is what made me start doing my own work. So no disrespect was aimed at any mechanic who is honest. Also thanks for all the help again to all that had a constructive comment, and I will keep posting to keep you updated!

Ok so when i try to start it, I cant get it started unless i keep jamming on the gas pedal but as soon as i get it started i it still runs like shit and I hear sort of a chirping noise (not sure if its chirping or whining) and also as i am looking at my dasboard lights they get dimmer and brighter as it idles, but no more new info other than that. Also I did check my fluids and there is no antifreeze in my oil or coming out of my tailpipe( so the head is in tact) and I dont seem to be leaking any from around my block or my intake manifold gasket. Oh and I did go back and check my work to see if my plugs and wires were correct and they all are properly connected and in the right order. So a few down and many more to come…THANKS AGAIN

When you replaced the spark plug wires, are you sure you got then in the right order?

It is worth the time to check that out.

Sometimes coil packs will go out. I have seen multiple vehicles exhibit random misfire because of this failure. Coil pack replacement IS NOT part of a normal tuneup so this is something to consider. Two of my vehicles were acting strange and getting misfires so I gave them a tuneup. They ran better but still not perfect and I was still getting misfire codes. Replacing the coil pack or packs as it is in some vehicles solved this issue for me. Was was then dating a girl who had a truck with the same problem. She had taken it to the mechanic to have all kinds of work including a basic tuneup done. The automatic transmission was shifting funny and she kept getting misfires. I told her that the coil packs cound do this so she bought one for about $100 at a parts store and had me put it in. The codes went away, her gas mileage doubled, and the transmission began shifting like new. I guess it was running so poorly that the transmission was calibrated to shift at certain times and the engine wasn’t keeping up. All the EGR parts were plugged completely solid with black carbon from this poor running condition. We broke up before I could solve this problem completely.

I would also check the cam and crank position sensors as well as all airflow/air temp sensors, throttle position sensor, etc. on the engine. Many of these items have their own code when acting up but sometimes they skirt by and cause other issues without getting directly noticed.

By all means, pay attention to any other codes that might show up.