Mini Cooper R56 P0137 code


Ok, I found a list of sensor used by the control unit

  1. differential pressure to intake manifold (which I presume is the map sensor)
  2. knock sensor
  3. crank sensor
  4. cam sensor
  5. suction pressure sensor
  6. temperature and boost pressure sensor

I have to say the service data I’m looking at is pretty much incomprehensible. hopefully you have something better .

Edit… ok, I think I see what I did wrong. You must have the Cooper “s” rather than just the Cooper. Still incomprehensible, but at least I’m looking at the right set of data.


Mini’s are not mechanic friendly at all. I will just have to go back through each sensor I replaced once by one to see which is throwing the code. All very easy to get to. Luckily I think the Solenoid sensor is not an option as that was a pain to change.
Yes, I have the N14 turbocharged S model.
Would still love to know what is going on with my oxygen sensor readings and crankshaft pressure. I am thinking vacuum leak somewhere especially since I have foam in my crankcase oil but no idea where it is. No OBD codes for anything besides the MAP sensor either.


I couldn’t find what the O2 sensor readings are supposed to look like, or even what type of o2 sensor they use on that car. But the post above that the signals expected from a narrow band sensor is different than from a wide-band sensor is spot on. Different technology.


Foam in the crankcase oil = coolant leaking into the crankcase.



No foam on dipstick and coolant level hasn’t changed so it is not a coolant leak. Most likely a vacuum leak which I cannot find.

.45 for the upstream oxygen sensor is what I am mostly finding for my car. I am waiting for my $100 Bentley manual to arrive to get confirmation. Why mine is hovering around .000 is the issue I am trying to figure out.


while awaiting the factor service manual, suggest you google the difference between a wideband vs a narrowband sensor. It may help explain why 0.45 is the normal expected output. Note that a narrow band sensor could be said to have a 0.45 volt expected output, if the output was measured on a DC scale. In fact however a narrow band o2 sensor’s output signal jumps between 0 volts and appx 1 volt once every few seconds. that’s b/c the ecm reads the output, if 0 it adjusts the fuel mixture to make it 1 volt, then when it turns 1 volt, it re-adjusts the fuel to make it 0 volts. it has to work that way b/c the computer only has access to the o2 levels, not the hc (unburned gas) levels.


There are 2 likely possibilities. A very large intake air leak that the wideband reads as “lean as all heck” so the car is dumping tons of fuel in a futile attempt to compensate… OR the signal from the O2 sensor is not making it back to the ECU, hence the 0.000 V reading.

Likely problems include; Bad upstream O2 sensor, bad wiring to the ECU or a bad ECU. I’d guess bad O2 sensor. Normally that should set a code P0130 but that is why we actually look at the data to see what it reads.


No dice on the sensor as I just replaced both of them. Also don’t believe it to be an air leak as I have sprayed carb cleaner(actually CRC throttle body cleaner which I believe works) all over the place with no results. Then again, and air leak would also explain my frothy oil cap.
So time to really check for air leaks and then the wiring from the upstream sensor and then the ECU.


It would not be impossible to get a bad sensor new out of the box or damage the wiring during installation. I’d start with the connector. Maybe a pin got pushed back.


I don’t think it is a bad sensor. The old and new both give the same readings which is a jumping from -.01 to .01. Perhaps it is a massive air leak and CRC throttle body cleaner doesn’t effect the engine. Does anybody know if it should work for finding leaks or do I need carb cleaner?


I was chasing similar argument when trying to repair my 2006 Pathfinder, and what I concluded to myself in the end was that OBD2 reported live data may be misinterpreted by some generic diagnostics apps.
I had similar issue where one bank was reporting overly reach, another as super-lean… when using OBD2 diagnostics from some $10 Android application.
In reality, I found a substantial exhaust system leak, which was making all sensor readings skewed and ECM was pretty much saying “hey guy, your sensors readings make no sense”, which I believe is somewhat similar to your case.
So… after I fixed the real problem of leaks in exhaust system… I checked upstream live data reads and they were still reporting teh same “lean” / “rich”, but by that point I knew it was a wrong data interpretation, not the actual problem.
Just my 2 cents…


If that were the case, the idle RPM would be way too high. We are talking about a leak so large that the full flow of the injectors could not overcome it.

If 2 sensors read the same and you believe the software you have, that points to an electrical connection problem between the sensor and the ECU or IN the ECU. The symptom of very poor fuel economy points to the same thing, the injectors are adding fuel for air that isn’t there and actually being rich rather than lean as your O2 sensor is reading it.


Another idea: Narrow band sensors work on their own, they produce their own output voltage with no input power other than the exhaust heat. Wideband sensors on the other hand require an input voltage (power source) to work. Wideband sensors don’t produce a voltage, they produce a current that’s proportional to the O2 concentration in the exhaust stream. that has to be converted to a voltage by another circuit. Where that other circuit is located, on the sensor or elsewhere, don’t know. Wideband sensors also require a bias voltage input of 0.45 volts applied so the chemical reaction that produces the current output works correctly. So the problem could be the sensor or its circuit isn’t receiving the necessary input reference power/voltage bias for some reason. It’d be like when the power to a light bulb gets cut off, the light bulb turns off. The light bulb itself is still good, it just doesn’t produce any light b/c its input power source is missing. In the case of a sensor, it might be ok, but it produces an output of 0 volts if its input power source is missing.


Now this is helpful troubleshooting. I will take the voltmeter out today and do some exploring. No idea how to check the ECU though.
I didn’t reset the ECU after replacing the sensors. Is this needed? Just unplug the negative terminal for an hour or two I mean.
and an additional piece of info since I have never changed oxygen sensors before and don’t know if this is how it should be. The upstream was covered in soot while downstream had much less soot on it.


My 2010 Kia Forte SX 2.4L I4 6spd M/T averages about 25mpg in the Winter with 87 octane Winter formula fuel. Your fluctuating mpg of 20 to 30 mpg sounds normal to me. My Summer average is about 28mpg.


I disagree @sgtrock21
The EPA estimate for my car is 26/34mpg. Every car I have had the past twenty years got above the EPA estimate and within 2mpg each fill up. My previous fill-ups are 25.2mpg, 24.8, 21.7, 23.6, 24, 29, 26.5, 27.8, and 22.6. Most are below even the city driving EPA estimate and the variance is far too wide.


The key word regarding EPA estimates is ESTIMATES. Actual (real world) results may vary. The tests are conducted on new vehicles under strictly controlled conditions. You have owned your 2010 Mini Cooper S for 9 months. Was all scheduled maintenance correctly performed according to mileage/time requirements? Did the previous owner never abuse a turbo car? How many miles are on your 9+ year old Mini? My current Kia and previous Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 2.4l I4 5spd M/T were purchased new and received all scheduled maintenance. They both could exceed EPA highway mpg which was 36mpg. On long highway trips at 65mph they would get 40+mpg traversing substantial mountain ranges.


There has been several mentions about the state of the oil. Do you have coolant in your oil? Has your cooling system stayed full with no problems? The overheating combined with vibrations at idle as well as oil consistency questions begin to point heavily toward cylinder head issues or valve problems possibly.

Hows about we get those compression readings before trying to diagnose? Everything needs to be sound mechanically before looking to solve other symptoms. You can chase your tail pretty hard when you are looking into readings and run quality by assuming everything is cool mechanically. Who knows what readings manifest when the engine isnt running properly from a mechanical perspective. Compression readings are important in this instance.


No coolant in oil or problems with the coolant. From what I have read the froth in the oil cap is from air getting into the crankcase. The coolant level has not changed since it was flushed. The overheating was from the previous owner as indicated by the slighty melted plastic intake manifold.
I will do a compression test and crankcase pressure test tomorrow and post the results.


First of all, there’s a big difference between an O2 sensor and an Air Fuel Ratio sensor.

Using the correct terminology would avoid a lot of confusion.