# Mini Cooper R56 P0137 code

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Created:** [January 21, 2019, 5:44pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048 "2019-01-21T17:44:59Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 9\
**Page:** 3

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![dbat7\_147249](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/dbat7_147249/32/14657_2.png) [@dbat7\_147249](https://community.cartalk.com/u/dbat7_147249)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2019, 8:02pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048/41 "2019-02-10T20:02:16Z")

</div>

Really diving into details there @Tester and missing the big picture.  
They are listed as oxygen sensors on parts websites, in the Bentley manual, and everywhere I read about the two oxygen sensors for my car. Perhaps mechanics cll my oxygen sensors air/fuel ratio sensors, I do not know. But none of the facts change becuase of what they are called.

@sgtrock21 The EPA estimate is always on the conservative side and that my nine year old car with 77,000 miles on it gets nowhere near the EPA estimate is the problem. Of course I have no idea how the car was driven before I bought it at 70,000 miles. The slighty melted plastic of the intake manifold indicates it was driven badly. My whole point is that the car doesn’t get anywhere near the mileage it should and jumps all over the map so something is obviously wrong.  
The compression test is the best advice so far and will be done tomorrow.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2019, 8:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048/42 "2019-02-10T20:08:40Z")

</div>

I’ve always found that nothing can be diagnosed unless it’s understood how the system works.

Tester

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\
**Post date:** [February 11, 2019, 12:38am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048/43 "2019-02-11T00:38:09Z")

</div>

They’re referred to as _o2 sensors_ or _oxygen sensors_ in the service data I’m looking at. I’m not sure if that means they really are the traditional narrow band sensor, or they are in fact the wideband air-fuel-ratio sensor. On the electrical schematic, the section where the power-train control circuit is shown is referred to as “lambda control”. By the looks of the circuit, the pre-cat sensor has 3 _current outputs_, labeled

- alsvr1 (GE) - Yellow
- alsvp1 (WS) - White
- ilsvp1 (GE) – Yellow

Apparently GE mean “yellow” and WS means “white” in mini-speak , referring to the wire colors I guess.

The current outputs are converted to voltages by transistors located on the “DME Control Unit”.

Given that the outputs appear to be currents, I’m presuming these are wide-band air-fuel ratio sensors rather than narrow band sensors. The post-cat sensor is slightly different, and only has 1 output, and that appears to also be a current output, implying it is a wide-band air-fuel ratio sensor.

I concur that the diagnostic process would be less ambiguous if the nomenclature used by the car manufacturers was consistent.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![anon86613489](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/ad7895/32.png) [@anon86613489](https://community.cartalk.com/u/anon86613489)\
**Post date:** [February 11, 2019, 9:47am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048/44 "2019-02-11T09:47:12Z")

</div>

> [@George\_San\_Jose1](#):
>
> - alsvr1 (GE) - Yellow
> - alsvp1 (WS) - White
> - ilsvp1 (GE) – Yellow

Its German for some reason.  
GE - gelb  
WS - weiss

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Honda-Blackbird](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/honda-blackbird/32/3159_2.png) [@Honda-Blackbird](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Honda-Blackbird)\
**Post date:** [February 11, 2019, 10:00am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048/45 "2019-02-11T10:00:01Z")

</div>

German… for some reason? LOL It has a very specific reason.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![dbat7\_147249](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/dbat7_147249/32/14657_2.png) [@dbat7\_147249](https://community.cartalk.com/u/dbat7_147249)\
**Post date:** [February 11, 2019, 4:45pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048/46 "2019-02-11T16:45:57Z")

</div>

and now for some hard data.  
Compression test:  
Cylinder 1 - 160psi  
Cylinder 2 - 156psi  
Cylinder 3 - 162psi  
Cylinder 4 - 172psi - Oil on spark plug threads

Crankcase pressue test:  
I believe spec is 38mbar but that is from online as I cannot find it in my Bentley manual.  
At idle 55-70mbar  
At idle with PCV plugged - -5 to +10mbar

So the compression test looks good to me except the spark plug gasket on cylinder 4 is failing or failed. Could the leak on cylinder 4 cause the frothy oil and bad crankcase pressure? I am thinking about doing an oil pressure test or testing the fuel injectors but don’t know if they would be useful.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![sgtrock21](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/sgtrock21/32/246_2.png) [@sgtrock21](https://community.cartalk.com/u/sgtrock21)\
**Post date:** [February 11, 2019, 7:19pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048/47 "2019-02-11T19:19:10Z")

</div>

Are you referring to Bavarian Motor Works?

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Honda-Blackbird](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/honda-blackbird/32/3159_2.png) [@Honda-Blackbird](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Honda-Blackbird)\
**Post date:** [February 11, 2019, 8:25pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048/48 "2019-02-11T20:25:04Z")

</div>

Indeed I was…

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![sgtrock21](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/sgtrock21/32/246_2.png) [@sgtrock21](https://community.cartalk.com/u/sgtrock21)\
**Post date:** [February 11, 2019, 11:59pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048/49 "2019-02-11T23:59:32Z")

</div>

My next door neighbors own a 2014 Mini. They love it. I have driven it and liked it. I have also driven 2 vintage British Mini Coopers. One was the only right hand drive vehicle I have driven. It was no problem on USA roads but I don’t know if I could successfully drive anything on the wrong side of the road. I could probably do OK on a rural roads but turns in traffic would be counterintuitive.

[Previous page](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mini-cooper-r56-p0137-code/133048.md?page=2)
