# Mazda 626 yr 2001

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/mazda-626-yr-2001/87702>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Created:** [October 17, 2014, 9:55pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mazda-626-yr-2001/87702 "2014-10-17T21:55:38Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 6\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![dldelzer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/439d5e/32.png) [@dldelzer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/dldelzer)\
**Post date:** [October 17, 2014, 9:55pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mazda-626-yr-2001/87702/1 "2014-10-17T21:55:38Z")

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when the car is idling or running in low speed when i power up or down the windows the car begins to vibrate. ANY ideas?

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**Author:** ![lion9car](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/59ef9b/32.png) [@lion9car](https://community.cartalk.com/u/lion9car)\
**Post date:** [October 17, 2014, 10:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mazda-626-yr-2001/87702/2 "2014-10-17T22:08:56Z")

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If I’m understanding you correctly, it sounds like the engine isn’t speeding up to compensate for the extra load. Cleaning or checking the idle air control valve is a sensible first step here.

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**Author:** ![dldelzer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/439d5e/32.png) [@dldelzer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/dldelzer)\
**Post date:** [October 17, 2014, 10:30pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mazda-626-yr-2001/87702/3 "2014-10-17T22:30:39Z")

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had that done still having trouble but thanks for the help any other ideas?

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**Author:** ![BustedKnuckles](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bustedknuckles/32/25_2.png) [@BustedKnuckles](https://community.cartalk.com/u/BustedKnuckles)\
**Post date:** [October 18, 2014, 12:50am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mazda-626-yr-2001/87702/4 "2014-10-18T00:50:26Z")

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Does your car have a tachometer and voltmeter on the gauge panel? Can you read these with the car running, warmed up and at idle? Put the car in drive, but hold the brake firmly and roll the windows up and down. How do the gauges react?

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**Author:** ![knfenimore](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/9fc348/32.png) [@knfenimore](https://community.cartalk.com/u/knfenimore)\
**Post date:** [October 18, 2014, 2:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mazda-626-yr-2001/87702/5 "2014-10-18T02:05:06Z")

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Is the battery old? Are the battery connections clean? Sounds as if the load from the windows is drawing to much power and causing the alternator to work to hard. I would start at the battery.

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**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\
**Post date:** [October 18, 2014, 4:07am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/mazda-626-yr-2001/87702/6 "2014-10-18T04:07:17Z")

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Good ideas above, that’s the place to start. If those don’t pan out, it might be the door motor is on the fritz and drawing too much current, which in turn loads the alternator and the alternator loads the engine. You could temporarily remove the alternator drive belt I suppose to test this theory. Make sure though doing so doesn’t disable something important like the water pump.