Manual Tranny, Grinding/Scraping whine when shifting into, and driving in 5th gear

There is no reason for the tech to open the trans when an engine is replaced.

If the engine was replaced maybe that is a hint that the car was hooned to within an inch of its life before you got it. That would explain the “new engine” and replacement clutch at 91,000 miles and now a trrans bearing noise at 122,000.

I know 2 types of Suburu owners. 1) is the type that never beats on the car and services it regularly (you) and 2) the type that whips it hard at the local autocross, track day, rallycross or whatever and puts it away wet (maybe your car’s former owner). So take that for what its worth.

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I been there. pulled motor on my Seville to change head gaskets and 4 yrs later the trans died. so I replaced the trans with a used one. I do not miss that car at all. owned it for 15 yrs and had about 10k in it total. purchase and repairs minus sale price. that’s not bad on a $/mile calculation.

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Thanks everyone for your help. Unfortunately you guys are 100% correct, I swung by the Mr. Transmission today for an inspection and indeed it is a bad bearing. FML.

Thanks andriy for the suggestion on Xado. It sounds interesting but im a bit skeptical. Anyone else have a take on this stuff?

They are probably correct, but just to be on the cautious side, I suggest that you take the car to an independent trans shop for evaluation. Mr. Transmission has a pretty awful reputation, even if it isn’t quite as awful as Lee Myles, Cottman, and AAMCO.

An indy trans shop will almost always give you a more honest diagnosis, better workmanship, and a better price than a chain-run/franchise operation.

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you are risking $10 :slight_smile:

my brother in law had his old [european] diesel Ford engine treated, got all good effect in compression whatever he could get, but since he was driving something like 40K miles a year, he needed to get complete engine overhaul few years down the road anyway and to go for enlarged bores and larger pistons… so at first they could not get bore to cut into the block walls, as cermet was as strong as bore itself, so they had to use diamond hones to break that cermet layer first

that stuff really works, question is if it would be enough to compensate wear you already have…

Good point. Do you know what the difference is between the one you posted and this one? http://xado.us/revitalizants/ex120/revitalizant-ex120-manual-gear-box

Good point. Do you know what the difference is between the one you posted and this one? http://xado.us/revitalizants/ex120/revitalizant-ex120-manual-gear-box

A Subaru manual transmission does not even have to be out of gear oil to create transmission damage.
Running 2 or 3 pints down can cause mainshaft bearing issues; usually the rear main bearing.
If the gear oil level is low enough the bearing can turn purple with heat and seize up.

I am a bit bothered by the “I’m hoping I can blame this on the tech…” comment.

And no, he would have no reason to open the transmission up either on an engine swap or clutch job. Unless you’re willing to pay extra for it because disassembling a Subaru transaxle (proper nomenclature…) is a bit touchy; especially with the reassembly.

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Just want to point out that every FWD transaxle potentially has this issue.
Now, why Subaru couldn’t have done better…

Well, do they have TWO differentials and manual transmission gearbox put together into quite a tiny space like this?
http://www.subaruottawa.ca/images/awd/image_awd_physics.jpg

I would say, their design is ingenious, but unorthodox.

I used to own these cars not for reason they allow me to neglect putting “whatever” oil there, but for their “all I need in very compact package” reason. Yes, it is picky on some things, but show me who is perfect int this budget segment?