Maintenance, back in The Good Old Days

I cannot honestly say if coffee grounds will clog your drain but I imagine that when you consider that coffee grounds do not dissolve in the hot water that perks through them then those that go down your drain will probably slowly collect on any grease, grime, or other unmentionables in the plumbing…

But I will pass this thought on too since we are so far off the maintenance of cars, For all those cat lovers and I do not call you “cat owners” because we know no one truly “owns” a cat…

Dumping the cat “■■■■” that is collected in the litter box in your toilet is not a good idea either… especially the clay based litter… That stuff is sticky and gooey when wet and will surely mess up your plumbing and under no circumstance do not dump it into your toilet if you have a septic tank…

I bought a new Fiat sedan in 1959. The owner’s manual specified 2000 mile service intervals, Mostly clean, adjust, and tighten. check or change fluids, but rebuild generator and carb. I pointed out the maintenance schedule to the dealer. He laughed and said “That’s how they do it in Italy. Here, we wait until something breaks,”

When I was 16-17 working as a pump jockey at a Mobil station in the 60s had a young lady come in with a VW bug, she asked me to check the electrolyte level in the battery. I lifted up the rear seat to find two batteries connected by jumper cables, I gave her a quizzical look, she responds “it always starts”.

As far as coffee, I prefer the taste of coffee made in a French press, but hate dealing with the grounds, so 99.9% of the time I use my drip maker, filter and grounds go in the trash.

To minimize clogging the plumbing, screens on the sink drains, added an exterior lint trap to the washing machine outlet, unbelievable how much lint laundry produces, especially the first wash of new bath towels.

So every 1000 miles?

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:laughing:
Many years ago, I worked with a guy whose two cars were an MG-B and some sort of Fiat sedan. He said that the MG was FAR more reliable than the Fiat.

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In Italy, it’s Kilometers…. :sweat_smile: And they used the 24-hour clock… So from 0600 to 1900 (6:00 AM to 7:00 PM) the speed limit is 100 km/h (60 MPH), and from 1900 back to 0600 (7:00 PM to 6:00 AM) you can drive faster 120 km/h (75 MPH), probably when traffic is lighter…

You guys with a sewer system are lucky. I live in an area that uses septic tanks. No bleach, nothing but human waste and toilet paper. No feminine products. It’s a pain but it is what it is.

Consider this article. Spoiler alert: don’t do it.

Juicy stuff like chicken bones, I put in the freezer until garbage day. Then it doesn’t go down the drain or smell up the trash. But if I had a car, and the others stuff you mentioned, I wouldn’t put in the food freezer. Yuk. I’d need a separate freezer for tat stuff. When we had a dog, it was zip lock bags and in the trash can in the garage. We loved our dog but when we would let her out she’d run around the back of the house and couldn’t figure out how to get back. Not the brightest bulb.

It was a boring car. I kept it 4 years. Nothing ever broke or rusted. I could do the adjustments myself. I bought it instead of a Volkswagon. The Volkswagon dealer did not take trade-ins, wanted a $300 premium over the $1200 list price, and had a 90 day delivery backlog.

In an undeveloped State Park near my home, there is a '70s era Fiat that was apparently abandoned there before the forest grew up around it. Amazingly, it has virtually no rust.

The windows were all shot-out many years ago, the engine is gone, and little remains of its interior, so it’s essentially just a shell, but it is almost entirely rust-free. Local lore refers to it as “the Fiat in the woods”, and it’s always interesting to see the expression on the face of people who stumble upon it for the first time.

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The Fiat body was alodized. Wherever the paint or undercoating got chipped away, the exposed metal turned yellow but did not rust. In Cleveland, car bodies would start to rot out after 3 winters.

What is alodizing? I’m familiar with anodizing, Alodine, and aluminizing, But not the process you refer to. I looked it up on line and didn’t find a reference.

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“Alodized” refers to aluminum that has undergone Alodining, a chemical conversion coating process. Unlike anodizing, which uses electricity, alodizing is a non-electrolytic dip or spray that creates a thin protective film on the metal’s surface.

However; Alodining is technically known as chromate conversion coating, is a chemical process used to passivate metals to prevent corrosion and improve paint adhesion.

And “passivate” refers to the chemical finishing treatment that makes the metal surface “passive”—meaning it becomes significantly less chemically reactive and more resistant to corrosion.

Alodine is a brand name (Henkel) for chromate conversion product. Chromate conversion is usually chosen when you want an electrically conductive finish, like an electronic device enclosure and aesthetic appearance is not a priority or it will be top coated with a paint.

Anodizing is insulating so if you need to ground the metal, it needs to either be masked prior to application or post process selectively removed where the ground contact needs to occur. Surface masking is a PITA so typically, grounding is provided by a PEM type male stud pressed into the metal part with masking on the threads prior to anodizing.

Only if it’s thin enough. Chromating is also done for decorative purposes, like on automotive trim parts. The dyed coatings are too thick to be electrically conductive. We used chromate conversion coatings to make electrical box panels conductive so that grounding to the spacecraft frame was simple.

Chromate conversion, from the yellow appearance.

This is bringing back bad memories of my first car, a 1950 Chevy bought in 1963 for $75 with the help of my neighbor, who knew cars.

Seventeen and massively stupid, I didn’t. Our family had come to America in 1949. Probably due to my father never having had a car before the war, we didn’t afterwards either.

That Chevy taught me two lessons:

  1. Maintenance matters. I never checked under the hood, all a mystery to me, so wasn’t much surprised when it refused to start a year later and was sold to someone who still saw value in it. A few years later I’d make a few bucks doing tuneups, jobs coming from index cards on college bulletin boards. More years later I became a maintenance warrant officer in the Army, where we took the issue seriously. Today I’m an*l about preventive maintenance. Ha, I chart my weight twice a month.
  2. That the car was paid for in cash was such a good feeling, I did it again with my second car, a 1954 Ford, for $200. And again with the third car, an Anglia whose only redeeming virtue was its having a 4-speed on the floor. Buying cars for cash was such a good feeling, I’ve done it my entire life. Never bought a new car, even if today I could afford to, and some of the cars I bought were clear reflections of my innocence and gullibility.

OK, enough time on memory lane. Back to work.

In High School, I worked after school as a dishwasher in a Woolworth’s luncheonette. Once a month, we threw a glass into the disposal to sharpen the blades.

In 1968, I bought a used 61 Fiat sports car (later named the Spyder). Only 45k miles. It needed a new head gasket about every 600 miles. Got where I could change the head gasket in an hour and a half, hood open to hood closed.

For the record, coffee grounds will clog your drain. They settle in the P-trap. I just fill the sink with water, pull the plug and give it a couple strokes with the plunger and it is good to go.

Also, every car I ever had that had points recommended replacing them every 12k miles. Same for plugs because lead would build up on the tips. You could blast them but that would only give you about 3k more miles. Exception was Fords that used that plug with the giant tip, they would last about 20k.

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That’s the normal process. Never seen or heard of that being applied in anything but a thin layer. Didn’t know you could do that and not sure why. Normally, we would do the conversion process and then top coat with paint if any other aesthetic was required. This isn’t a fake chrome that is shiny silver color so not sure which interior parts would have conversion coating- do you have an example? Genuinely curious!