The engine died, stalled? What happened when you tried to restart it? Did it crank or not? any noise at all when you turned the key?
Looking to replace 2002 Corolla due to failing Smog Test. What's an acceptable replacement for $ 3K?
1 Like
The battery disconnection problem could be either in the + side or the - side. Good idea to replace both cables. Not sure about yours, but the + side cable on my Corolla contains three specialized fuses, and for that reason Iām seconding db4690ās suggestion above to purchase oem cables from Toyota, not from an aftermarket source.
Batteries can become disconnected just b/c the connectors are not clamped tightly enough, or the posts or connectors are corroded too. Another common connection problem is corrosion at the place the negative battery cable connects to the chassis. Make sure that it isnāt something simple like that before replacing the cables.
The car was still moving while the engined stopped.
Sometimes when we try to start it nothing happens. When we crank it nothing happens.
What we do is we try to nudge the + (red) terminal on top of the battery and then it would usually let us start the car again.
Itās very likely on the + side since when we try nudging that for a bit we are able to start the car again.
I would focus first not on replacing cables, but rather on determining if it is about the loose positive battery terminal clamp which has to be ānudgedā or cable connection to that clamp.
I would imagine steps like these:
step #1: is it possible to rotate positive clamp on the battery post?
I assume answer is āYESā, then your problem is there and it would be needed to address this really simple connection (step 2), otherwise, go to step 3
step #2: is it any gap left at that clamp where it is tied by a bolt?
if any gap is left: untie that nut 1-2 turns, remove clamp, clean both clamp from inside and battery post with thin sandpaper, connect back, push down and hold still while tightening the nut back, check how car behaves over few days
if still having problemā¦
step #3: is terminal clamp connected directly to the cable or goes through some kind of fusible links block, and if YES, is nut to the cable corroded?
assess the state, clean/tighten or replace as seem fit
Ours never had a fusible link block. Thanks
If ānudgingā the positive battery cable has any effect at all on engine performance or starting, thatās a major clue. Make sure your shop is fully aware of this.
1 Like
[quote=ājpntrux777, post:16, topic:105853ā]
I do remember that the terminal was old, crusty and loose before then there were people who helped out but āyankedā something so Iām not sure what exactly happened there.
In any case, how hard is it to replace the entire battery cables and how hard is it?
I wonder if we can do these by ourselves and not have to rely on an expensive mechanic
[/quote]I do remember that the terminal was old, crusty and loose before then there were people who helped out but āyankedā something so Iām not sure what exactly happened there.
In any case, how hard is it to replace the entire battery cables and how hard is it?
I wonder if we can do these by ourselves and not have to rely on an expensive mechanic. Iām going to call this āAuto Mechanic Phobiaā. Op is apparently willing to replace the Corolla with an unknown condition vehicle for $3,000 but unwilling to pay a professional auto mechanic $100 to $400 to likely get the Corolla to pass smog and possibly last another few years. Have they been told all their life that all auto mechanics are crooks? Possibly they have been actually cheated. There are actually many competent and honest ones out there. Much better than āpeople who helped out but āyankedā somethingā.
1 Like
Yeah the owner actually has had bad experiences with mechanics such as changing oils when the oil was just changed.
In general, I have always thought of āat the mercy of techniciansā (due to lack of info) but thanks to the internet age, I find it much better to consult several people on forums first then make some cross references when I have the time. We still have some time before making a final decision.
Initially we thought it would be better to immediately look for the car but some people here convinced us that it may be better to look for the problem first if itās much cheaper to solve (better yet free thanks to tips).
If it were just me making the decisions Iād like to borrow some tools first including the protective eye wear, gloves, wrenches etc which was mentioned here then check on my own but a lot of these moves have to be talked about first and we have different paces which makes it harder to come down to a decision.
$ 100-400 can still be a lot for us.
I do understand that some ācapableā people are much better off spending the $ 100-400 because their time with their jobs are far more important than thinking of less costly/free alternatives.
Still, at this rate, they are still open to the idea of calling a mechanic but we keep going back and forth.
I doubt if thereās anyone whoās owned cars for more than 15 years exists who has not had a bad experience or two with mechanics, myself included. As sarge pointed out, there are good, honest, competent shops out there, but there are simply too many who arenāt. Like many, I have a near anxiety attack whenever I have to have a mechanic touch my car unless I know the mechanic well. And sometimes even then.
One thing I do to help alleviate that anxiety is to never use a shop where I cannot watch the work. And the one shop I do take my car to when I need a shop is run by a very old friend who knows that I want to see everything, and donāt want anything done that I havenāt been shown the need for and approved. He also knows that I trust him and that as long as I know the āneedā is legitimate, Iām comfortable approving the work. I stay in his waiting room the entire time.
Admittedly, I do a lot myself and have a lot done by the automotive technology guys at the college I retired from. So my good friend rarely sees my car except for state inspections. He knows this, and often makes a recommendation knowing full well that Iāll fix it myself or take it to the school.
In summary, the anxiety is normal, and I would argue justifiable. There are a lot of good shops in the industry, but also a lot that arenāt.
1 Like
And I suppose a shop that would rather the customer is not looking over their shoulders is likely a bad shop, because they must have something to hide, or they arenāt proud of their work
I will always counter your viewpoint on this
I would rather do my work without customers constantly watching me. I have nothing to hide, but itās less stressful for me to work, without somebodyās eyes burning holes in the back of my clothing
That certainly alleviates your anxiety, but perhaps not the mechanicās anxiety
Were I looking for a job at a privately run shop . . . and if all continues to go well, I wonāt ever be . . . this is the kind of place I would not apply to
Now, if some other mechanic on this forum says they donāt mind being watched, or maybe they even like it, well, thatās fine for them. But itās not fine with me, not if I can help it
Someone replaced the battery and left the cable ends dirty and loose? That is poor workmanship. Was this done in the parking lot of an auto parts store?
However this happened have the battery cable end cleaned or replaced tomorrow, this is inexpensive and driving around with loose battery cables is asking for trouble.
Fine. But your description of my viewpoint isnāt my viewpoint. If you insist on arguing with my viewpoint, at least get my viewpoint right.