Jump starting shouldn’t cause any sort of “voltage surge.” Both cars have 12V electrical systems, there’s no where for a voltage surge to come from. The electronics are damaged by the reverse voltage that results from connecting the jumper cables backwards on one of the cars.
My wife has a set of “foolproof” cables in her trunk. Even if the polarity is reversed, the unit senses it and makes a correction. They don’t cost tmuch more than a regular heavy duty set.
That’s a good idea. One time I gave a jump start to a guy who had the red cable on the negative terminal and the black cable on the positive terminal. Fortunately, I realized it before I connected the cables. Now I always make sure to confirm the terminal polarity by looking for the “+” and “_” symbols on the battery.
If that’s the case, why does the donor car have to be running for a jump start to be successful? And both cars have kilovolt systems as well. I believe the idea was that after the cables are connected to both cars, the donor car is started. That’s when it might occur.
The donor car does not have to be running for a jump start to work. It is, however, good practice for it to be running. The reason is that while you are trying to start the bad car, you might run down the battery of the donor car and then you would have two dead batteries. If you keep the donor car running, you don’t have to worry about that.
If starting a car caused dangerous high voltage surges, then you would fry the electronics in your car every time you started it.
I have no idea what you are talking about with “kilovolt systems.” Hybrids have drive battery systems that are in the hundreds of volts, but we aren’t talking about hybrids here.
"I have no idea what you are talking about with “kilovolt systems.” "
The ignition system converts 12 VDC to 50,000 VAC. That is what I meant, and I believe what the expert mechanic on Motor Week was referring to.
Okay, but I don’t see what that has to do with the subject at hand, jump starting a car. The 30 to 70 KV spark discharges certainly don’t make it back into the 12V electrical system.
I like the idea of a difference of potential between the donor and the donee to promote the flow of current,the higher the difference the more current to flow,hence the running donor.
It helps keep the donor voltage from being pulled down to the level of the donee,when that happens no current flows.
Hello All,
Look, I used my 2011 Dodge Avenger to jump start my 2000 Cadillac Escalade and yes I gave the Avenger a little bit of gas and then I notice that the check battery light came on, but my Cadillac was charge and started. Then a few days later I started the Avenger up and the check battery light was still on and after driving to a friend house the car wouldn’t start, I then checked the battery and it was low on amps so I took the battery out and fully charge it and replace it back into the Avenger and again the check battery light came on. I turned the car off and then on but it wouldn’t start but a half an hour later it started but again the check battery came back on. Did I burn out my alternator or is it the battery because it is the factory battery since I had the car? Please help I don’t want to buy an alternator and learn it’s my battery or vise verse.
Exactly how did you do this? To test the amps out of a battery requires special equipment. What did you read?
Sounds like the battery is dead, as it is 7 years old. But I’d check the alternator also. Also check the battery cables for looseness and corrosion, as this could cause your symptoms.
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+1 to @BillRussell, your original battery has given you more than it’s fair share of use. If you can get the car started again head over to a car parts store, Advance, Autozone etc and they frequently will do a free battery check. If it simplistic but can point to a battery or alternator problem. If your battery is completely dead you will fry your alternator trying to charge it, use an external charger to top it off.
Yes, I took the car to Advance and they said that it needed charging and that it was chargeable so I left it with them over night and picked it up the next day and they informed me that it was fully charged, so before placing the battery back in the car, I clean everything and when I first started up the car just before closing everything up there was no Check Batter light but once I drove it a little bit (not even a mile) the light came back on. I turned the car off and tried to start it right back up and it wouldn’t start so I then waited for about a half an hour and tried again and it started right up and the Check Battery Light was gone but again after driving it a little bit it came back on.
Once I took the batter out ( a pain in the butt because its in the fender) I took it to Advance for them to check it and that is what they in formed me about the amps but said that the reading is saying that its chargeable so I left it there over night. Then I picked it up the next day and they read me a receipt that it was fully charge. I then clean and check the cables and made sure the posts didn’t have any rust and at first there was no Check Batter light but after driving a few minutes (Less than a mile) the light came back on? I then drove back home, turned the car off and tried to start it right back up and it wouldn’t start or even turn over? After a half an hour I tried to start it again and behold it started and again no Check Battery light but I’m sure it would have came back on so I just turned the car off and I’m looking for some type of help and I can’t afford a alternator and a battery so I’m trying to pin point what is the correct problem.
I have a GM alternator hooked up to a 6HP engine. I use it for electrolysis and for charging batteries that are not located near a power outlet.
If your battery is still the original, then you need to replace it immediately. I’m surprised they suggested charging it, based on the age. They would have done you a favor by selling you a new battery.
The battery is the foundation of the car’s electrical system, and with a questionable battery, the alternator isn’t going to be able to function properly
After replacing the battery, chances are you also won’t have any more charging system problems
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db4690, I so hope you are right, I’m still going to have my friend to check the alternator but you just lift a lot of weight off my shoulders because right now I don’t have the money to buy an alternator and it would be a lot easier to get a battery than the alternator.
I don’t know if you’re a Costco member, but they sell interstate batteries. Their prices are usually significantly cheaper than other vendors, for a comparable battery, and they have a fairly lengthy free replacement period . . . 42 months, I believe
Walmart may also be another option. I have no idea about their prices, but their batteries often score quite well in the consumer reports ratings
I would advise against buying a battery from Sears auto centers, as Sears is in big trouble, and we don’t know how long they’ll be around. Maybe they wouldn’t be around to honor the battery warranty, should you need it?
Which, IMHO, is baloney, because jump-starting is an emergency procedure. You don’t generally have the option of slow-charging your battery–if you did, you would have done it in the first place!
If “modern alternators” stink at it…we need to go back to making alternators that DON’T stink at it! Really…what’s stopping us?
EDIT: ARRGH! Necro-post strikes again! REALLY, this site need to do a better job of 1) not recommending necro-posts 2) informing the end user he’s posting to a necro. OTHER sites do this! This site USED to do this!
db4690, well in two weeks I will be getting a battery because that is when I will have the funds to purchase one and I just wanted to say thank you again my friend for the advise.
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You’re welcome
After you get that new battery, please let us know if that was also the end of your charging system problems