# Is this a bad ignition switch? **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [November 2, 2024, 4:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/is-this-a-bad-ignition-switch/197882 "2024-11-02T16:41:06Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 4\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![919Blazer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/9/34f0e0/32.png) [@919Blazer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/919Blazer)\ **Post date:** [November 2, 2024, 4:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/is-this-a-bad-ignition-switch/197882/1 "2024-11-02T16:41:06Z")
I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE. So the last few days I have been having problem starting the car. So I put my key in and turn the key and it looks like the car is going to start but it doesn’t crank. All the dashboard lights are on so probably not the battery. What I have to do is turn the key all the way to the right and hold it for 1 more second until the car starts then I release the key. Sometimes if I turn the key over too fast, the car just sounds like it is going to start with all the lights on but nothing happens. The oil and battery lights are on like the key is still in ON position. I changed my ignition switch last year with this one from eBay. Maybe it is not good and is going bad. I think this one is aftermarket. Should I change to a OEM one? > **[New Ignition Switch Chevy Olds Chevrolet Impala Pontiac Grand Prix Malibu Am ...](https://www.ebay.com/itm/353959502645)** > > 2003 Impala LS Sport. 2003-2005 Impala Police. 2004-2005 Impala SS. 2000-2005 Impala (submodel: Base, LS). 97-2003 Malibu (submodel: Base, LS). 2000-2005 Grand Am GT1. 2000-2004 Grand Am SE1. 2000, 2003-2004 Grand Am SE2. If it doesn’t start the first time, I can usually get it to start the second time by holding the key in START position for 1 extra second until the car starts. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [November 2, 2024, 4:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/is-this-a-bad-ignition-switch/197882/2 "2024-11-02T16:50:04Z")
The next time the engine doesn’t start, with the dash lights on step on the brake pedal and shift the transmission into neutral and then try starting the engine. If the engine starts, it may point to a problem with the park/neutral safety switch. ![1S5108_2](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/7/a/7acc97d17de314dfda805feea40f3a1b63f319a2.jpeg) Tester ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [November 2, 2024, 8:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/is-this-a-bad-ignition-switch/197882/3 "2024-11-02T20:08:56Z")
I’ve experienced a similar symptom several times on my older Corolla. One time it was the ignition switch, another time (actually more than one) it was the starter motor, yet another time it was the clutch safety switch. One time it was a failing battery. Finally there was a wiring harness problem with the alternator’s charging circuit… So there’s a lot of possibilities for this symptom. The best test I found to get to the heart of the cause was to measure the voltage at both starter motor electrical terminals during an attempted start. They should both measure at least 10.5 volts. Ask your shop to make that measurement before deciding what parts need to be replaced. . ---
**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\ **Post date:** [November 2, 2024, 8:29pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/is-this-a-bad-ignition-switch/197882/4 "2024-11-02T20:29:17Z")
> [@919Blazer](#): > > What I have to do is turn the key all the way to the right and hold it for 1 more second until the car starts then I release the key. Do you mean to say that the engine requires 1 second more cranking time than you expect?