# I need help **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [August 29, 2015, 10:51pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032 "2015-08-29T22:51:18Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 14\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Braves](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ba9def/32.png) [@Braves](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Braves)\ **Post date:** [August 29, 2015, 10:51pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/1 "2015-08-29T22:51:18Z")
I have I a 1995 buick lesabre custom I just replaced the fuel pump, fuel relay ,ignition control module, and the computer; the problem with the car is it’s on for 2:00 minutes and shuts off I try to start it again and it doesn’t start up I wait for an hour it starts up and shuts back off in 2 minutes; I’m not sure if it’s a wiring problem or not me and my mechanic are trying to figure what may be the issue if anyone has a answer please feel free thank you. ---
**Author:** ![VDCdriver](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/vdcdriver/32/30_2.png) [@VDCdriver](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VDCdriver)\ **Post date:** [August 29, 2015, 11:02pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/2 "2015-08-29T23:02:12Z")
This sounds like a problem with the notoriously troublesome GM _Passlock_ security system. Perhaps permanently disabling that system would resolve your problem. Take a look at: > **[How To Permanently Disable GM PassLock System](http://kingbain.com/how-to-permanently-disable-gm-passlock-system/)** > > Purpose The following instructions will allow you to disable the PassLock security in quite a few GM Vehicles. This will allow you to install a remote starter and not have to purchase a bypass. Avo… ---
**Author:** ![Braves](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ba9def/32.png) [@Braves](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Braves)\ **Post date:** [August 29, 2015, 11:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/3 "2015-08-29T23:05:21Z")
That’s what me and mechanic was thinking but the security light wasn’t flashing ---
**Author:** ![Braves](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ba9def/32.png) [@Braves](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Braves)\ **Post date:** [August 29, 2015, 11:06pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/4 "2015-08-29T23:06:53Z")
If we disable the pass lock would anything bad happen or it would just solve the issue altogether ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [August 29, 2015, 11:16pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/5 "2015-08-29T23:16:48Z")
I’m going against the grain, big time . . . It doesn’t sound like an antitheft problem . . . aka unauthorized start . . . to me Here’s why . . . antitheft systems usually work in such a way, that fuel is cut to the engine, and it will never start properly. Never mind run for 2 full minutes And there will usually be an antitheft led, message, etc. to indicate that the module sees an “unauthorized starting attempt” ---
**Author:** ![Braves](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ba9def/32.png) [@Braves](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Braves)\ **Post date:** [August 29, 2015, 11:23pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/6 "2015-08-29T23:23:19Z")
I didn’t see anti theft message on my dash ---
**Author:** ![Braves](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ba9def/32.png) [@Braves](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Braves)\ **Post date:** [August 29, 2015, 11:24pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/7 "2015-08-29T23:24:23Z")
And how do you solve a anti theft problem db4690 ---
**Author:** ![SteveCBT](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/stevecbt/32/3192_2.png) [@SteveCBT](https://community.cartalk.com/u/SteveCBT)\ **Post date:** [August 30, 2015, 12:25am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/8 "2015-08-30T00:25:28Z")
Have you replaced the fuel filter? If not give that a try. Not sure your car has a crank angle sensor, but that could cause this symptom also ---
**Author:** ![Cougar](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cougar/32/21348_2.png) [@Cougar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cougar)\ **Post date:** [August 30, 2015, 8:36pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/9 "2015-08-30T20:36:06Z")
It would be nice to know if the ignition was working or not when the engine shuts down. If spraying some starter fluid into the intake doesn’t help fire up the engine after it shuts down then I would have to say that the ignition isn’t working for some reason. The crank sensor seems a to be a good bet. ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bing/32/4619_2.png) [@bing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [August 30, 2015, 11:39pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/10 "2015-08-30T23:39:56Z")
I’ll have to tell ya that my Riviera had a similar issue except it would shut down after maybe 7 miles of driving. I’d run around town with a fuel pressure gauge on it and test light on the the pump waiting for a failure. Pressure up, power up, no codes but would start up again right away and then stall again after a few miles. Cleaned grounds, new coil, module, crank sensor, cam sensor, air and temp sensors, swapped computers, and even new ignition switch, new fuel pump, relay, and even all new wiring. Shop could find no problem several times. I wish you luck but I never did find my problem and junked it. ---
**Author:** ![knfenimore](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/9fc348/32.png) [@knfenimore](https://community.cartalk.com/u/knfenimore)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2015, 8:11pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/11 "2015-09-02T20:11:38Z")
Sounds as if it runs in open loop, but not closed loop. Have the codes been read?[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIKdbTFvyUU](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIKdbTFvyUU) ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [September 4, 2015, 7:30am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/12 "2015-09-04T07:30:18Z")
First step is to read out the diagnostic codes from the computer, that might provide something to go on. If you can get it into the state where it won’t start, and at the shop, that should be fairly easy for a shop to diagnose. It is almost certainly either a problem with the fuel or spark, and the shop will have the equipment to determine which one it is. The problem shops have is when something like this is intermittent. They sometimes have great difficulty finding out the cause then, b/c they can’t get it to fail when they are testing it. But in your case it sound like you can get it into the state where it won’t start. If the diagnostic codes don’t tell you anything, that would be my next step if I had this problem. ---
**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\ **Post date:** [September 4, 2015, 9:19am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/13 "2015-09-04T09:19:16Z")
I tend to agree with the crank sensor assuming a no-start means the starter motor is cranking the engine but it simply won’t run. At 20 years old and if it’s the original it’s done well to survive this long. ---
**Author:** ![knfenimore](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/9fc348/32.png) [@knfenimore](https://community.cartalk.com/u/knfenimore)\ **Post date:** [September 4, 2015, 9:49pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/i-need-help/91032/14 "2015-09-04T21:49:17Z")
If it’s warm it will still be in closed loop and will fail to start due to a bad sensor. I would not believe a crank or a cam sensor. The car would not start at all, but a bad MAF would kill it.