Just for kicks I took a look at the LKQ site. Those engines are pricey in the $1500 range for 114K to 160K miles. Uff. Hope he didn’t take it all apart already otherwise I think its time for a different car.
Wow, this place is really active, good to know.
Starting from where I left off…
Rod Knox – thanks, I’ll need that at a minimum…
Keith, yes, every replacement part is already purchased, I wanted to be ready to dive in once it was open. It had already started the nickel and diming, it was about to want a dollar… Now it wants 50…
Caddyman – Option one may have to do. My wife and I are both doctoral students, me with an internship on top of that and her with a full time job (those funds go straight to her schooling). We don’t have time for additional jobs and cannot handle our workload or the commute between our obligations without transportation. Maybe someone would be charitable in light of the circumstance… worth a shot I suppose.
Yosemite – Good thinking, but my wife and I are both at schools that do not have undergrad courses, i.e. automotive. I could try a local JC, but without ties to the college, I don’t know how gracious they’ll be. Even my ties to my undergrad as an alumnus would be worthless, they didn’t have an automotive program either. But just as you said, all I can do is ask.
SteveC76 – Noted, hopefully a while is enough.
Bing – Yes, I’ve heard the same. I generally agree, which is why I’m consulting now. I’m concerned that I’m screwed, but simply hoping that someone knows a trick I’m not aware of or can at least say there’s something that will last this short time. I must say, the reason I was willing to open the engine was that I was anticipating an engine with similar specs to the ones I’ve already rebuilt a few times without incident (Honda engines from the early 90’s). Between what I’ve already noted from the manual during this build and the tech article circuitsmith posted (very interesting) I have a lot more respect for this engine than I did 2 weeks ago.
Caddyman – Right, the engine is completely torn down, nothing is in the car. The block is on an engine stand, the head and the girdle/mains are on my work bench.
wesw – For sure.
BustedKnuckles – Noted. Though I’ve only once since this car was built seen this generation of Celica in the junkyards around here, I’m concerned I’ll have minimal luck. Looks like the head faced the other direction on the other cars that had a 1zz. I’ll look into it more and see. I’ve done rebuilds/swaps/whatever in the past, I have my own engine hoist and good (not great) tech knowledge.
Evil Wrenchman – Noted. There’s not zero hope of them getting back, everything was properly marked so it should go back as close as possible to how it came. But with an engine with tolerances this tight, I don’t know if that’s close enough…
the same mountainbike – Thanks for the compliments. And yes, understood, what you and others are communicating is essentially confirming my suspicions.
ok4450 – Stopping is essentially what I’m doing. I mentioned the price of boring etc. because it’s not an option, and I’m aware it could be more since this engine appears to demand a level of precision that shops will charge extra for. No worries on the set up, after I saw the tolerances expected, I triple checked the procedures. There’s nothing it calls for that I haven’t done before, where I’m stuck is my ability to outsource the proper machining. I’m used to an engine that will be destroyed if you try to hone it, let alone bore it, so this major element to the project was a curveball I’d forgotten was a factor with other engines, and I’ve never seen a deck this distorted before. I was expecting to turn the crank, resurface the head and be done with the outsourcing.
Nevada_545 – Yes, traffic in the desert and not noticing it heating up for an unknown period of time… hot indeed. I did find a place that does resurfacing for $35. That much expenditure I can take on (no more than that though, like I said, I’m stopping). Noted on the rings. So they wouldn’t have even seated by the time it’s time to get rid of the car. Either way it will be drinking oil, so I could live with that, but think it would be worse than the ones that were already likely allowing blow-by?
Bing – that’s odd… the LKQ company local to this area is pick-a-part. They quote about $250, I think… I’ll have to look again. Maybe it depends where you are. But again, I’d have to find one with the front intake rear exhaust. And yes, the engine is in pieces, nothing is together anymore, at all.
So… yes, I’m hearing you all on the used engine. I can’t afford the cheapest car that wouldn’t give me more problems than just throwing in the used engine, so I think that’s the better option of the two, and one I’m mindful of the possible need to take. BUT keep in mind that it’s an extra expenditure. My original question was asked because I’ve already sunk the money I’m willing to into this engine. If it blows, then frankly I wouldn’t have been able to afford what it would have taken to prevent that, and that cost was better saved for the newer engine anyway. I have no intent to spend more on it (unless those quotes are accurate on the resurfacing, in which case I can probably source the $70 from a friend or something). If it doesn’t blow, though, then it doesn’t. So I do intend to use this engine no matter what, I have the parts, I have the time for the next 2 weeks (break time), I might as well. If it fails, then certainly, used engine. And I can do the swap in a weekend, so I’m not concerned about buttoning this all up then having it fail. It fails, we call AAA, tow it home, get the used engine I’d be getting now, it’s down for 3 days. My concern is getting the best bet on my gamble, because affording the new engine at this point is the biggest obstacle in that equation. The more time I have, the more likely it will be that I’ll be able to make preparations to allocate some portion of my next loan distribution or several of my wife’s paychecks to the replacement engine, so what I’m looking for right now is time. Any amount of it is an improvement.
If you have not opened the parts that you bought, you may be able to still return them.
The place may want a restocking fee(10-20%), but at least you’d get most of your money back.
I’d check around for a used engine locally. Pull the old one with a rented engine picker and put the used engine in. It should only be a 2 day job if you can find a buddy or two to help.
Then use the money for the parts you’ll want to replace…belts, oil and filter, plugs, coolant etc…
If you can pick up the replacement and get it on the floor near the car, you can swap out all the components and remove anything that holds the old one in while you wait for the big day. Rent a picker for a Saturday…pick out the stripped one… drop it on a trailer for return…and put the replacement in…return the picker. Then on Sunday you have all day to bolt it down, hook anything up, and prep it for starting.
MY place I use…I can usually get any used engine for less than $600 without all the components ie. alternator, power steering pump, tranny etc…
Yosemite
Forget the rebuilding , nurse the present engine along and save for a good remanufactured or used one with a known history.
This is not going to turn out well; especially with a balky transmission involved.
I understand your point, jumpman. Even if you bolt it back together as-is and it seizes at the end of the driveway, you’ve lost nothing more anyway. Might be worth a try.
If it makes you feel any better, I may not know much about engine rebuilding but I’ve been around here enough to know that the other posters are quite qualified and experienced and pretty much know of what they speak. Good luck. Sometimes just no good options.
Pick a part usually has 1/2 off pricing on holiday weekends . . .
If you can hold off until labor day weekend, you might strike gold
“Though I’ve only once since this car was built seen this generation of Celica in the junkyards around here, I’m concerned I’ll have minimal luck. Looks like the head faced the other direction on the other cars that had a 1zz”
My 2006 Matrix has rear exhaust.
The 1zzfe was used in Corollas and Matrixes for 10 years, should be easy to find a used one.
Used engines of this flavor seem to all be priced in the $1300-$1600 plus shipping range…And they have over 100K miles on them! Time to move on…
well, your attitude is great. that, along with your skills and intelligence will serve you well…, in maintaining your next car. 
at least you are realistic in your expectations. on the bright side, you ll get a lot more money in scrap value with the different metals separated already.
just kidding…, kinda.
seriously, I hope it works out and lasts the time you need it to last. I think it will.
Since you’ve already ripped the thing apart and have parts in hand you could give it a shot. There’s a 50/50 chance it could run well without too much oil consumption and get you by for a year or so.
Forget the boring. Apply a good hone job to the cylinders, new rings and crank bearing set, and either service the cylinder to some degree or find a decent used one.
I wouldn’t worry too much about the .002 warp on the block. The general rule of thumb on cylinder head warpage is anything in excess of .002 per linear foot means it needs to be surfaced.
About .020 is the most that can be shaved from a head without creating more problems.
It’s generally not recommended but I would advise spraying the new head gasket with aerosol Copper Coat. Allow it to get tacky and bolt it down. Preferably wait overnight and then tighten those head bolts again. That will offset any relaxing of the gasket, etc and can help prevent head gasket leakage problems later on.
Just some food for thought since you’re already eyebrows deep into it. Hope it helps.
that’s a good tip about the head gasket @ok4450. I ll remember that if I have to tackle mine.