GM went from joke parking brakes with the 4 wheel discs to joke drums on the disc/drum solution. Sounds about right.
If you want good sized and very effective parking brakes, then you need to go back to a full sized duo-servo setup, imo
And then Rick will chime in, somehow claiming that he was right all along . . .
Please don’t take cheap shots at people who haven’t even joined the thread.
Re: Is the Accord in the econ-box category?
That’s a judgement call I guess. I’d place it there along with the Corolla, Yaris, Civic, Fit, Camry, and Mazda M3. Less so now than in 1991., the OP Accord. But even now I’d place the new Accord in the econo-box category. It’s a huge seller, and a little lower priced than most similar cars from makers like Mercedes, BMW, etc. I wouldn’t disagree much however with those who would eliminate the Camry and Accord and even the M3 from the econo-box list, escpecially if discussing new car models. Like I say, what is or isn’t, that’s a judgement call.
Today’s Accord is most decidedly not an econobox.
That’s not a cheap shot
That’s the truth, and we all know it
Please don’t take this the wrong way . . . but I question your judgement
A 1991 Accord was a much bigger and nicer car than your Corolla, which is around the same vintage, give or take a year, I believe
The 1991 Accord was literally in a class above your car. Like I said, don’t take it the wrong way. For that matter, I don’t quite see how you can reasonably place all those cars you mentioned in the same class
I’m at a loss, as to how you came to your conclusions
It’s as if a bare bones Chevy S10 with the 4 banger was compared to a Toyota Tundra
Definitely not a valid comparison
Definitely not in the same class
They’re both pickup trucks, but that’s all they have in common, no more than that
Snide comments directed at a specific person behind his/her back are cheap shots. And doing so is wrong. Whether the comment would be true or not does not affect the wrongfulness of the act. Any individual that chooses not to participate in a conversation deserves to have his/her decision respected and not be badmouthed behind his/her back.
And because you think it’s the truth does not mean we “all know it”. We have no way of knowing if your assumption is accurate or not.
Focus on the subject at hand. It’ll be a much more pleasant forum.
db4690, Well said mate. I have driven some of the cars you discussed and agree wholeheartedly. I also lol’d at your dry barbs.
I respectfully disagree . . . as to how we should conduct ourselves on this forum
And I think it IS a pleasant forum, even when we’re not in agreement
I have to sit back and laugh.
@db4690, you sent me a personal message that you didn’t want me to interact with you because I proved you wrong at one time.
And I have respected that request.
But to tell some one how to conduct themselves on this forum?
You should be the last to preach.
I would replace the rotors up front, however, they are captive rotors so take some time to research the replacement procedure. Eric the car guy has a video on how to replace captive rotors. My experience with rear drums is when they are going to go bad, you will hear droning or scraping sounds. I haven’t had too much shaking. Like someone else said, you can also test the parking brake to see if it vibrates when you engage it to rule out a rear brake issue.
A pulsating brake pedal always mean trouble with the brakes. If you are not comfortable doing your own brake job,have a certified mechanic inspect it for free.
Brakes are probably the last item I would suggest for DIY. If the owner does not have the tools already, and know which end to use, and why, prudence says take it to a pro, only your life is at stake…
Vehicle not go, maybe a problem…vehicle not stop, big problem!
You’re kidding, right? That flimsy piece of trash is only to be used in an emergency…even using jack stands I wouldn’t trust that cheapo excuse for a jack