If you do the timing belt yourself the cost is about $40 (not counting any other parts you may replace along the way (i.e. Drive belts and hoses). And it can easily be done on most vehicles in an afternoon.
Timing chain…MOST back yard mechanics won’t even attempt a chain…It’s a LOT more involved…Just for a comparison…I priced the timing-chain kit for my 4runner ($300). That’s a LOT more then twice the price of a timing belt. Plus it’ll take a lot longer then 3 hours…Oil pan has to be dropped…The timing chain covers all have gaskets…that means the covers and engine will have to be cleaned before installing the new gaskets…I can’t see how it could be only twice the price of a timing belt.
Now if you have someone do the work for you…then the cost difference is a lot more…
Not even close, for me. Personal experience tells me that a timing chain replacement costs less than 50% more than a timing belt replacement (on my vehicles). On one vehicle it was basically only a parts price difference and in both cases it was labor that was the bulk of the cost.
Could you give me an example please…I’d really like to know what vehicle that has a timing chain that is so easy to replace.
I no longer buy “timing belt cars” and don’t buy cars that have extraordinarily labor intensive chain replacements. Careful selection can save an owner hundreds of dollars in car maintenance.
That’s GREAT…but for most of us…shoe-horning ourselves into 2-3 vehicles is NOT an option.
I don’t mean this in a combative way at all, but is there really that much need for a car that only sees a shade over a 1000 miles a year?
I concur…I questioned my mother-in-law the need for a car when she only drives 5k miles a year…
Mike, I Had A 97 Intrepid 3.5L (Timing Belt) And We Still Run A 99 Intrepid 2.7L (Timing Chain). I Have Factory Manuals For Both.
I wrestled a belt (pump, idlers, tensioner, seals) into that 3.5L - 24v out in the driveway. I haven’t done a chain on the 2.7L, but I was thinking about it and called (several places) and got estimates on both cars.
When I compare costs, please consider that the belt vs. chain cost difference is only a part of total parts cost. I always replace the water pump, tensioners, tensioner pulleys, crank and cam seals, etcetera, on cars with either a belt or chain. That’s why the difference isn’t as great.
My manual does not show dropping the pan to do a chain on a 2.7L engine and you can take my word or not that when I got estimates, parts and labor, the chain job wasn’t much more than a belt job would be on a V-6, replacing all the accompanying goodies.
I agree that a great deal can be saved DIY, but I have a few more grey hairs now. Also, I had to order (Miller Tool) a couple of special tools and make a seal installer, etc. when I did the belt job. If I didn’t have the time and tools it would have been nearly impossible.
Some (most) cars would need a pan drop to replace a chain. Some cars are relatively easy to do that (just take it off) and some definitely not (pull / lift engine, subframe). I do try and look at servicing issues on cars that I purchase and I’m still planning on looking for cars without belts.
CSA
When I did a chain and gears on my 1969 Olds 350 parts parts were about $110 and it only took me about 2.5 hours.
CSA…this is NOT a major argument on my part here…(just wanted to make that clear)…I understand perfectly where you’re coming from. I know on many vehicles with chains you have to drop the pain…A chain is lubed with the engine oil and the oil pan on many of vehicles with chains is directly below the chain so the oil will run right into the pan.
I too am at the point where I don’t want to be doing that type of work anymore. I did one belt change on my wifes 87 Accord and one on here 96 Accord…The other belts I sent out…Those inverse mounted engines are a pain…However the belt on my old Pathfinder(s) is EASY…Hardest thing is removing the radiator. Once the radiator was out it was a piece of cake. I haven’t looked at the chain on my 4runner yet (only have 165k miles). But when I do I’ll figure out what I have to remove then. I can bet it’ll be a LOT more involved then replacing the belt on my Pathfinder.
My preference of vehicles is to be chain driven and NON-INTERFERENCE. Then I’d just drive it until the chain broke or (more likely) slipped a tooth).
However it’s an Interference engine then I’d prefer a belt. With a chain…if it slips a couple of teeth it’s same as if a belt breaks - Engine is toast.
Yea…chains on those older small-block GM’s were easy to work on. However modern engines are not so easy…ESPECIALLY if it’s a fwd vehicle with transverse mounted engine. It really complicates things.
Mike, I Get It. Good Conversation.
CSA
Also, most modern engines are Overhead Cam, even Dual Overhead Cam. Changing the timing chain on a dual overhead cam on a V-6 engine transversely mounted is not a cheap or easy job, trust me.