i saw 1 nice set of newer pilot wheels/tires on CL just now. 800 for factory wheels is not bad. the stock 235/60/18 is 29.1" tall.
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IMHO performance includes more than acceleration.
I went from 16" to to 15" on my Toyota Matrix; and the difference is noticeable.
Thereās less road noise and harshness over rough surfaces.
Steering is lighter when parking, due to 195 vs 205 width.
Perhaps the steering response isnāt as sharp, but the car feels more nimble overall.
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In my opinion, the only reason for low profile wheels/tires is style. And the style is driven by auto designers.
There are many negatives on them and only one positive I know of, slightly improved cornering.
Negatives that I know of:
higher unsprung weight, causing poor handling of bumps
much more prone to damage wit potholes
more expensive to replace after damage.
If you stick with the factory 18" wheels, everything will fit and work properly. If you want to go to 20" wheels, you could use 255/45-20 or 265/45-20 tires and the outside diameter would be very close to stock at 29.03" and 29.35". If you do go with custom wheels, whether 18" or 20", you need first to have the hub size match.
Many custom wheels use a large hub size and then put in a hub ring adapter. If you go this route, you have to make sure that every time you buy new tires, that the hub ring adapters donāt get lost.
The other issue is offset. This is affected by the wheel width. The stock wheels are probably 18x8 which means they are 8" wide. That would fit the 235 tire width. Custom wheels are often wider and if you went with the 265/45-20 tires, you would want a 20x9 or 20x9.5. Your dealer needs to find the offset of the factory wheels and if the custom wheels are wider, the look for an offset increase by half the additional width.
I.e. if your factory wheels have a 45mm offset and the OEM wheels were 8" wide, your custom wheels are 9" wide, the offset needs to increase by 1/2" or around 13mm. This does not need to be exact as the offset just needs put the vertical center of the wheel between the inner and outer wheel bearing, which are typically about 1.5" apart. So any offset from 45 to 75 would work, but 55- 60mm would be better.
As for performance being affected, the quality of the tire will have more to do with performance than any small change in overall wheel diameter. You should select your tires based on what you want a tire to do. If your not out racing the vehicle all the time, then things like ride, noise and wet braking performance may mean more to you. If you live in snow/ice country, winter performance may be more important than dry summer cornering.
Once again we donāt know size of the tire. When I got my brand new sports car it did not come with sport tires. So yes I could drift it not that I want to do that. But in normal driving conditions at 2.5k rpms my traction control would always kick in all the time. So I went from 215/45/17 to 225/45/17 so I got a high performance tire and increased the width and size of the tire. Now this is not a significant increase in size but an super significant in compound and design. What this did for me is I will be able to keep my performance from the engine and improve handeling and even increased steering response and steering weight another component I was looking for when comparing tires. I kept my stock rims and I also run nitrogen in the tires so the weight, mpg and psi do not change when I drive in the extrem heat of the desert. So if the OP went to an extream size and tread and compound that could contribute to perferomace and drivability. But on the other side why are the rims bent and what caused that?!! Who is to say that an accident didnāt not cause un seen damage wheel bearing engine mount who knows what really contributes to the poor performance. That should have been disclosed in the sale of the car from dealer along with the due bill for what would be covered from the dealer.
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B.L.E. had it right. Most often when you upgrade the wheel size, i.e. 18" to 22" you will go to a lower profile tire, i.e. 65 profile (profile is the percentage of the tire height rim to tread) to a 45 or 35 profile. Most reputable tire shops will try to match the tires to the new rims to try to match the rolling diameter as closely as possible. If this is done properly there should be no appreciable change in acceleration. However, there are 2 issues involved. When you switch from, say, 18" rims to 22" rims, the newer rims will most often be appreciably wider, your tire size would go from 265/65X18 to something like 305/45X18. Doing this will often cause clearance problems for the suspension as the wheel/tire set takes up more room in the wheel well and the tires may rub on something, causing excessive wear or possibly even a blowout (likely example would be sharp turn over a bump at some speed). The other issue concerns what the O.P. indicated, a bent rim. As it has been stated in this thread, the lower the profile of the tire, the stiffer the sidewall and the harsher the ride. This means less give in the tire and the wheels may become bent by driving over a sizeable pothole. I worked with a lady that went through this often on her Acura. She went from 17" to 22" wheels and changed the tire profile from 60 to 30. She had to replace a number of wheels (at $425.00 a whack; this was in the early 2000ās) due to pothole damage.
Welcome to the forum and thanks for your opinion. Do you own a Pilot with 22ā rims? If so, how is the ride?
OEM 22" staggered wheels on a Honda Pilot with a link to a custom wheel site???
I smell spam and not the eatable kindā¦
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