You didn’t say, or I missed it. Did you use a new head gasket when you put it back together, or did you use the old one? If you used the old one, there’s your problem.
At least my original question has been cleared up about replacing the camshaft.
Now to question Number 2. Did you adjust the valve lash? This is NOT the same as the camshaft timing.
You state that the head is apparently weeping coolant so this brings up another question.
When the valve job was performed, exactly who performed it? An auto machine shop?
Was the cylinder head checked for warpage and resurfaced as necessary? I would find it hard to believe a 13 year old Honda with 200k miles on it would not need this procedure.
Yes, I had a complete Gasket kit purchased and used all new gaskets.
The gasket was a two piece sandwich gasket. It only went on one way.
Thanks for the additional questions. I feel we are getting close to the problem.
No, I did not adjust the valve lash. Is this described in the Maintenance Manual usually?
Yes, the valve work was done by a shop that was very highly recommended by a couple of parts stores. I went to buy the parts and the guys told me about a shop that specialized in heads. Went to the shop, it was a performance engine shop, nice stuff. Big block engines for racing and other stuff.
Yes, the head itself was resurfaced, the thing looked brand new when I got it back. The rest of the engine looks terrible (oil stains) compared to the head. Very nice finish on both the block and valve side.
One other Question for you.
Could the low idle be caused by any of the recommended checks? I did not touch this and the idle is very very low right now. Or is this a reassembly issue?
No vehicle used points in’98. Did your install the timing belt yourself? What marks did you use on the crank pulley? Re-check the vacuum line routing according to the underhood sticker.It sounds to me that the cylinders are getting some coolant in them initially, until the motor warms up, expands and seals the head gasket. Did you use new head bolts? Did you clean out the head bolt holes completely before installing the head? This is critical.
If you removed and installed the camshaft without checking valve lash you need to back up a few steps and do this; and pray that any short term running of the engine with tight exhaust valves has not marred the faces of the valve and valve seat.
Adjustment may cure a marred problem for the short term but for the long term it could be problematic.
Leaking coolant around the head gasket does not sound good either. Improper torque, warped engine block deck, or even the wrong head gasket could cause this.
Just my opinion (and this would have nothing to do with any coolant leaks) but a head gasket used on aluminum head engines or all-aluminum engines should have a sealant. Some car makers recommend this, others don’t.
My preference is CopperCoat. The small copper particles in CC fills in nicks and imperfections along with aiding in heat transfer and the epoxy in CC permeates the head gasket and toughens it up.
Absolutely necessary? No. Just a dab of cheap insurance.
I understand the points issue, now. I just didn’t know what the pegs inside the distributor were called. I used the holes on the crank pulley as is described in the manual, I had another guy check my work, we agreed we followed the instructions. I then rotated the engine many times to make sure that the number 1 cylinder came back to top dead center when these realigned.
I looked into the cylinders but saw no coolant nor did I smell any when I pulled the plugs but this is certainly possible. I agree, I think this is what is happening. I pulled all the plugs cleaned them, they had some carbon build up on them, so this maybe the case. No I used the same head bolts, they looked very good and did not creak at all when reused. Yes in fact I spent a couple of hours cleaning each head bolt hole, but I could go back and do it again if you think I may have something in there causing issues.
I responded to this post but my response was not posted. Maybe the webmaster needs to look at why posts are not showing up.
I will take a step back and check the valve lash, as recommended. The engine has very few miles on it, since I did this because I wanted to get the engine correct.
I followed the Torque procedure to the T and I double checked the Torque on each one. I can believe there is some warpage of the engine block, not the head (it was near perfect when I got it back). The Engine Shop bought the Gasket kit and they work on a lot of Honda engines so I believe it was correct. Plus, the gasket fit perfectly when assembled.
I agree that a little sealant help would probably make sense, especially on an older aluminum engine but there was absolutely no discussion of this in the manual. I am not sure I am up to taking the whole engine apart again. But if some of the other things don’t help, I might have no choice. Thanks for the suggestions.
This site has been goofy for a while now, especially with complaints about being logged off.
Several weeks back this started afflicting me and I have to log on repeatedly; sometimes after responding to a post and clicking on another.
Few manuals suggest that a sealer should be used but when aluminum is involved it’s a good idea. I’ve used CC for 30ish years and more head gaskets than I can remember and have never had one fail on me yet.
As I stated, look on the hood for the valve lash spec. I don’t remember offhand but it’s probably something like .006 on the exhaust and .008 on the intake. Make sure the high point of the cam lobe is pointing away from the adjuster when you inspect/adjust this.
Turn the front wheel and you can usually get on the crankshaft pulley with a long extension and socket. This will allow you to easily rotate the engine and bring the cam lobes into position.
When done, be sure to remove the ratchet/extension or it will go flying. Speaking from experience. 
Thanks for the additional comments. I went online and found a very well written description with lots of pictures on how to adjust the valve lash.
My car has the following 0.008 (0.20mm)and 0.010 (0.25mm), I found it right where everyone said it would be on the underside of the hood in a very small font.
I will try this, this evening when I get off work. Thanks again for all your guys suggestions. It appears from what I read online this could be causing the poor idling as well. I hope to report back that we solved the issue.
Success!!!
After resetting the Valve Lash, the engine started right up, No misfiring!!
The engine idle also went back to the normal 500 RPM.
Took the car for a short drive and it had all its power back and no hesitation.
Thanks to all the guys who helped me with this, I really appreciated all the comments.
well then I am glad to see your persistance is paying off. The timing and lash all adjusted, and now just the weeping coolant. You could try one of those cooling system treatments before you take the head back off to replace and seal the head gasket. It is worth a try, and takes a lot less time and work. I would expect you will get various opinions about the value of such a fix, so wait for it.
Again, I really appreciated all the comments. This was certainly a learning experience. I even had my wife helping with the valve lash. She was a great help.
I think I am going to leave the coolant issue alone. It was very very small to begin with and I think it has almost stopped. If I lose a few mL per month, I will just top it off if necessary. Again, I just wanted to be able to drive the car around town.
Thanks everyone for your help.