There’s usually a published spec in the factory service manual for that sensor to shaft dimension, which is easily checked using a feeler gauge. Similar to checking the spark plug gap. As you’ve discovered it has to be correct for the sensor to work reliably. It’s surprising you weren’t getting a code for the cam sensor though.
I think the reason the CPS was not showing as a code when we scanned it is because the engine was warmed up by the time I got to the garage. When I left it overnight and they put it on the scanner the CPS code did show however we had already put a new CPS in the week before LOL now in retrospect I think the CPS code showed up in the morning when we first started it because the new one wasn’t working properly. I will see what it does in the morning. I will also see if I can find something in the manual about it that specifies how to line up the CPS with the shaft properly
EPILOGUE haha at last…the shim in between the CPS n the head worked! No more bad start. Started perfectly in the first time n runs great! I ll post a link with a short video showing you what the little plastic shim looks like
And the predictably hilarious part is wen we just scanned it on the OBD this code came up… P0340 which is called a camshaft position sensor circuit haha. So yesterday when it wasn’t starting well there was no check engine light. Now it started well and it’s running great and the check engine light is on again LOL I suppose it’s reading that that CPS is not seated properly but it works great
The symptoms sound to me like fuel metering problems when cold. It’s possible that the engine temp sensor that feeds the ECU the engine temp is bad. Since the ECU has nothing to compare it to, it will not trip a code.
However, if the engine temp sensor tells the ECU that the engine is warm when it’s actually cold, it will not ignore the upstream oxygen sensor and run rich… which it needs to do to operate when cold… or will struggle to find a mix that will run properly.
You’d need to get the temp sensor location and output curve specs from a dealer or manual (or perhaps the sensor manufacturer publishes it), as I no longer have access to any database, but it’s easy to check and if I understand the symptoms correctly a real possibility. And you’ll need a means of verifying that its output is proper for the engine temp (a “T” fitting and thermocouple probe should do the trick, at least while the engine is still cold).
I should point out that the thread was long, so I just skimmed over it. I may have missed a detail or two, but I wanted to offer the idea anyway.
Hi there and thanks for the detailed thoughtful reply.
The car was fine after I put a little piece of a cut out drumhead (yes from a drumkit!) in between the CPS and the head - unreal. It ran fine until it got pretty cold about a month ago - it would start fine when I had the block heater plugged in, but when I was at work I would have to turn it over for about 2 to 5 minutes. Brutal! I took it to a garage and the mechanic said the only thing to do was change the timing chain - I did that over christmas and it has started and run amazing since then - the theory is that the engine metal expanded as it heated up and the CPS would sense the position of the cam properly while everything was hot, then it would run perfectly all day as long as it didn’t get too cold - I was so busy finishing work before Christmas I couldn’t do the job till after Christmas - anyway its perfect now starts any time of day or night - cold or hot - and yes the shim is not necessary anymore haha
And yes the starter works and sounds fine believe it or not - I thought I would have to replace that too haha but its fine
Thanks a lot to all of you for the time and diagnostics help!
Cheers
A piece of drumhead between the Crank Position Sensor and the head?
I’d love to see a photo of that if possible. I think I just had a few neural synaptic junctions misfire! 
haha yes I know what u mean - I read it online somewhere n thought I’d try it and it worked perfectly instantly - the reason I used the piece of the drumhead is because I have so many of them lying around the garage but I think it could have been anything thin n fire retardant.
I have it video taped and was going to post it here but didnt kno how to do that - I guess I can put it on u tube and post the link here? I would guess that in a warmer climate the timing chain job wouldn’t have been absolutely necessary because it ran great here while it was warm - by the way I am in Southern Ontario Canada and its sub zero here now.
back to u soon Mountainbike man
thanks for the follow-up, glad you are back on the road with a smooth running mean, mean machine. How did replacing the timing chain fix it tho? Did you replace a cam sprocket too then?
Yes both sprockets and the chain and two guides on the Cam. The chain was stretched and it had about 3/4 inch of play/stretch and the timing was off because of it, until the engine heated up. It honestly starts great and sounds waaaaaaaaaay better than it did in this video - and runs great at any temp and weather. Check out the cold start with the shim haha here’s the link…
Mountainbike man - I dont have a pic but u can see it in the video and here’s the video and the U tube link - finally posted it
Cheers Guys!
Without an assortment of shims, wedges, cable ties, and various types of tape none of my cars would run at all … lol … I admire your persistence in getting to the bottom of it, and also your clever work-arounds. Best of luck!
Outstanding! I never would have thought of this. But, than, I’m not a percussionist! 
Haha I never would have thought of this myself if it wasn’t for the creative things I read online to bypass this problem. Apparently the shim re aligns the camshaft position sensor so it can pick up the position of the camshaft better. Somehow I got lucky and it worked for 4 months haha. This becomes necessary after a certain point in the life of these engines. It is apparently common with these engines. It is also very common that people changed fuel filter and the temperature sensor and mess around with the throttle and spark plugs and everything else until they realize that the timing chain has become too worn and much Hip I wasn’t so cheap I would have scrapped the c if I wasn’t so cheap I would have scrapped the car a lot quicker and much more thoroughly than expected. If i wasnt so cheap i wud hav scrapped it like the Nissan mechanic who sold it to me for 500 buks haha. He suggested to me that it might need a timing chain so he knew what was required when I bought it for 500 and he was not interested in spending the money or the time. He was definitely unaware of the shim solution as well. I love the challenge of keeping vehicles in shape. Thk u again for your insights Gents
LOL well I sure do wish that my Musical proficiency gave me an upper hand when dealing with my Automotive issues especially when I arrive late for a sound check because I have had to ask other people to drive me because my car wasn’t working! Or when the terrible pay we get for musicianship does not allow us the budget to fix our cars lol but I digress
Must be a slow day in the music business that you are posting this.
Yes it was lol there is no gig at the Elvis Festival in Collingwood yesterday .
I do read some of these threads when I can and was scouring some of them to get some tips about my car’s present problem but I noticed a previous post that I thought I had missed or not responded to.