# Grease Job

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** jeep\
**Created:** [February 10, 2010, 2:35am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210 "2010-02-10T02:35:47Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 9\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![psagnelli](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/91b2a8/32.png) [@psagnelli](https://community.cartalk.com/u/psagnelli)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2010, 2:35am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210/1 "2010-02-10T02:35:47Z")

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I had my Jeep greased by a “Lubrication Specialist” . When I got under the Jeep I found the little grease “Pig Tails” coming from the grease fitting so he did grease the Jeep. But when I inspected the actual joints no grease. I talked to a knowledgeable Jeep guy he said that if you mix certain greases together it turns to wax and you can’t get grease through fitting into the joint. He said wait for a 100 degree day and the wax may get soft and you will be able to push grease through the fitting than to the joint What do you think.

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**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2010, 2:42am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210/2 "2010-02-10T02:42:39Z")

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Never heard of that one! But I have heard of the zerk fittings getting clogged where grease can’t be introduced. Then this is used [http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd416.html](http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd416.html)

Tester

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**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2010, 2:50am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210/3 "2010-02-10T02:50:52Z")

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Next time you get a grease job, tell the “Lubrication Specialist” you want to SEE the grease drooling all over your driveway for a couple of days. I’m SURE he will be happy to accommodate you.

Today, virtually ALL chassis grease is lithium base. Back in the old days, there were several different types of “soap” used to make grease. If mixed, they turned to soup, not wax. This was really never a problem except in wheel bearings, which today, are sealed…

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**Author:** ![oldtimer-11](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e79b87/32.png) [@oldtimer-11](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldtimer-11)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2010, 4:14am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210/4 "2010-02-10T04:14:24Z")

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That is interesting, but for the average do-it-yourself owner it would make more sense to just replace the zerk fitting.

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**Author:** ![karl-sieger](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/c77e96/32.png) [@karl-sieger](https://community.cartalk.com/u/karl-sieger)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2010, 5:12am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210/5 "2010-02-10T05:12:35Z")

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oldtimer is right, you can replace the fittings, unless they’re seized up. If that’s the case, you can heat the fittings up w/a propane torch, but not remove them. The heat can clear the little channel in the fitting that the grease travels through. I get rubber caps that go on brake wheel cylinder bleeder screws and put them over the end of the grease fittings/. Keeps dirt & road film off the grease fittings.

[http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&rlz=1C1GGLS\_enUS323US323&q=wheel+cylinder+bleeder+screw+caps&oq=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=HT9yS6mdIo2o8AaCw4m\_Cw&sa=X&oi=product\_result\_group&ct=image&resnum=3&ved=0CB4QzAMwAg](http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&rlz=1C1GGLS_enUS323US323&q=wheel+cylinder+bleeder+screw+caps&oq=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=HT9yS6mdIo2o8AaCw4m_Cw&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=image&resnum=3&ved=0CB4QzAMwAg)

You can order them from the above URL, or maybe if you’re friendly with a shop you could ask if any of the mechanics have some lying around in their toolbox. I used to have a ton of 'em.

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**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2010, 5:37am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210/6 "2010-02-10T05:37:47Z")

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I’ve also seen grease zerks rust up to the point where a grease gun won’t force grease through them at all.

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**Author:** ![jayhawkroy](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/jayhawkroy/32/33_2.png) [@jayhawkroy](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jayhawkroy)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2010, 1:25pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210/7 "2010-02-10T13:25:47Z")

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Not so sure telling him that is a good idea – you could end up with a bunch of busted rubber seals if he gets too enthusiastic. Best to tell him you want the joints properly filled. I suspect the real problem was shooting just a couple of squirts into all sthe joint, and some required more than others. Have that problem on my trucks where some joints need more grease than others.

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**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\
**Post date:** [February 10, 2010, 4:38pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210/8 "2010-02-10T16:38:34Z")

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So the problem is he didn’t inject enough grease to pop the seals? Doesn’t sound like a problem to me.

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**Author:** ![psagnelli](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/91b2a8/32.png) [@psagnelli](https://community.cartalk.com/u/psagnelli)\
**Post date:** [February 18, 2010, 7:16pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/grease-job/44210/9 "2010-02-18T19:16:55Z")

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Thanks I’ll try replacing the fittings first … and if need be I’ll heat them up … but right now it’s too cold … I’ll wait to spring … and I’m hip to blowing the seals with too much grease … I think my brain needs a grease job for not thinking of this stuff …  
thanks for the help
