# Getting Transmission Back Into Neutral? **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** transmissions, f150\ **Created:** [July 27, 2015, 2:15am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/getting-transmission-back-into-neutral/90727 "2015-07-27T02:15:10Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 3\ **Page:** 3
**Author:** ![fillyblynn](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/ac8455/32.png) [@fillyblynn](https://community.cartalk.com/u/fillyblynn)\ **Post date:** [July 30, 2015, 11:31pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/getting-transmission-back-into-neutral/90727/41 "2015-07-30T23:31:00Z")
@“Rod Knox” > "Putting pressure directly on the rail itself, the rail in the tail piece that is, would seem the safest route if there is access to it." Where is the rail in the tail piece? Is that the “tab” I was talking about, or something else? ---
**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\ **Post date:** [July 31, 2015, 12:07am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/getting-transmission-back-into-neutral/90727/42 "2015-07-31T00:07:38Z")
@fillyblynn, looking at the most recent photo the R/OD rail appears to be somewhat visible there in the Reverse housing inside the blue circle, Further to the rear is the OD housing apparently under a seperate cover. Is there another cover on the tail piece? If so remove it and there will hopefully be access to a position where the rail can be pried or tapped to free things up. ---
**Author:** ![researcher](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/edb3f5/32.png) [@researcher](https://community.cartalk.com/u/researcher)\ **Post date:** [July 31, 2015, 10:17pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/getting-transmission-back-into-neutral/90727/43 "2015-07-31T22:17:27Z")
To get at the 5th / reverse shift rail you basically have to take the rear of the transmission apart. The following information is from the library edition of [AlldataPro.com](http://AlldataPro.com). Remove the extension housing Remove the VSS tone ring Remove the counter shaft lock nut Remove the counter shaft rearmost bearing and thrust washer Remove the output shaft rear bearing lock nut Remove the reverse idler shaft bolt Remove the reverse idler shaft, gear and bushing Remove the output shaft rearmost bearing Remove the output shaft reverse gear and bushing Remove output shaft gear spacer Remove counter shaft reverse gear, 2 bearings, and reverse synchro/blocking ring Remove reverse gear thrust washer Remove counter shaft split washer Remove 5th / reverse gear shift rail bolt Remove 5th/reverse syncronizer, gear shift fork, and reverse gear shift rail as an assembly Alternately you might try removing the 5th / reverse shift lever (the tab you have circled in blue). Remove the circlip ring; unbolt that shaft lock bolt; remove the shaft; and lift the lever away from the gear shift fork. Now you should be able to access the shift fork and clutch dog sleeve directly. See if a little prying is effective. When you solve this problem let us know what the source of the problem was. [Previous page](https://community.cartalk.com/t/getting-transmission-back-into-neutral/90727.md?page=2)