That makes independent minded people want to see it more.
1 Like
What unfinished business 
Highly doubtful, the car will stall before hydo-lock.
Again doubtful, mostly only crowd following âsheepleâ and âNational Enquirerâ readers will need anything more.
@bcat:
Welcome to the site, and thank you for your post.
2 Likes
You can ignore threads not of interest to you. No reason to read it and reply. Unless you have an axe to grind.
4 Likes
Yes, but the danger is that the engine will stall, the cleaner will continue to flow into the intake possibly flooding one cylinder, and the mechanic will reach in and turn the keyâŠ
That can and has happened, resulting in a bent rod. Specifically on a 1994 Ford Taurus 3.8. 
Since weâre reviving a 12 year old thread I thought Iâd contribute an anecdote from the last century.
2 Likes
Thatâs why I do it myself. Not recommending it for people who donât understand the risk.
The OP got himself into something he didnât understand. When it failed, he wanted proof of blame where none can be assured. He did well to get the service shop to pay. I would reject his claim, not because heâs wrong, but because the blame is uncertain.
Sometimes itâs just bad luck. Donât let people sell you something you donât understand. Assert yourself and stand your ground.
Bent a rod in a Dodge truck once due to hydrolock. Crossed a small stream, hit the water a bit hard and ingested water through the intake.
The induction cleaning solvent can puddle in the intake manifold when running with no load, idle to 1500 rpms. When the throttle is snapped open to accelerate, the the solvent can splash around and enter the cylinders.
Note the large surge tank at the bottom of the intake manifold;
Ok why was this one flagged? I didnât use any offensive/inappropriate words, there was no name calling or personal attacks. What gives? Does every thought, opinion, or idea have to conform with the mainstream flow of political correctness, or worry about those who are just looking for something to offend them, or take personally?
Which goes both ways, you could just take your own advise and ignore me. Unless you have the ax to grind.
Donât keep me guessing just go ahead and flag this now.
Iâve heard that too.
Many products say run the motor around 2,000 RPM. The more air flow, the faster any puddle turns to vapor. Like fuel vapor from the EVAP purge valve.
My method is, donât stomp on the throttle too soon. No damage yet. Be careful out there.
I would add to that "Donât let people sell you something you do understand is not needed.
Yesterday I took my Hyundai Tucson to the dealer for a recall.
I also requested a wheel alignment, for $130.
They did the work without issue, and the paperwork included a list of suggested services needing immediate attention, totaling $740.
No surprise, I declined.
The list included a new battery, induction service, AC ârefreshâ, engine and cabin air filters, windshield wiper blades.
The induction service seems soon for an engine with 28K miles.
The filters I checked and they are in great shape.
The AC gets plenty cold.
Wipers donât look new (I replaced the rubber inserts a few months ago) but work fine.
They tested the battery a year ago when I had it in for another recall, and it had 95% of specified CCA, plus I keep it topped up with a solar panel.
They say GDI engines need it sooner.
For my BMW 650i an induction cleaning was recommended at 30k miles, it does have a direct injected 4.8l.
I would also recommend an induction service at 30K for any Hyundai with a GDI engine.
Iâve seen too many intake valves look like this at 80K miles
Iâm driving my first direct injection car. I plan to do meticulous maintenance. But After the warranty ends Iâll do my own work. Is seafoam just as good as what the dealership does for induction service? Or is there a ârightâ way to do it yourself. I know they use special attachments and stuff but if I can do an effective job on my own Iâll do it myself.
My understanding is that professional mechanics have a machine which blasts pulverized walnut shells through the intake manifold, which dislodges and breaks up the carbon deposits which form on the intake valves. This, of course, is generally only a problem on DI engines, one of the many reasons I would never buy a vehicle with this type of engine.
Thatâs pretty ugly. Have manufacturers come up w/a solution to this problem not requiring periodic induction system cleaning? Maybe if it was shaped differently, some sort of a venturi-effect say, gunk wouldnât accumulate, instead be swept through and into the cylinders. Or maybe configure the EGR & PCV systemâs differently.
Dealers generally use high dollar products. BG maybe, or something direct from their OEM. If you can afford their price, why not.
As The Disgruntled Mechanic says, âIf you can get somebody else to do it, youâre probably better off.â
youtu.be/Cy1E3yVOO64
Beware of spray cans with straws. It may come loose and go where you canât retrieve it. Seafoam uses a straw long enough to secure onto the throttle body.
CRC has an integrated straw less likely to come loose.
I still use the old fashioned method with liquid. I patched a Y adapter into the vacuum line between my EVAP purge valve and intake manifold. The extra arm of the Y is normally capped off.
I set a small glass decanter against the hood support and secure it with mini bungee cords. I connect a tiny vacuum line between the Y adapter and decanter. It must be TINY to limit the flow rate. I include another Y adatper to draw air at the same time and further limit the flow rate.
I use a Lisle pedal depressor to run the engine around 2,000 RPMs.
I pour about 5 ounces of liquid into the decanter. The vacuum draw is strong enough to consume it in 3-4 minutes. Any more liquid, or any faster, would be risky.
I turn off the motor and let it hot soak for 10 to 15 minutes.
I start the motor and pour a dash of Xylene into the decanter to flush the lines. Twice and Iâm done.