# Frozen bearing and CV shaft removal **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [June 6, 2009, 3:03am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/frozen-bearing-and-cv-shaft-removal/31478 "2009-06-06T03:03:05Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 4\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![nbpt100](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/9f8e36/32.png) [@nbpt100](https://community.cartalk.com/u/nbpt100)\ **Post date:** [June 6, 2009, 3:03am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/frozen-bearing-and-cv-shaft-removal/31478/1 "2009-06-06T03:03:05Z")
I have a 96 Intredpid that needs the front hub bearing assembly replaced. I have done this before and thought it would be relatively straightforward…but what dream was I in when I thought that to be the case. The hub assembly is rusted into the steering knuckle. The small pry slots on the outside are inadaquate to remove the the assembly. I want to remove the CV axle and try to hammer the hub assembly out from the inside. I need to remove the CV shaft to do this. I have tried for an hour today to pop out the shaft from the transaxle. It is a new axle which I replace about a month ago, so I have some history doing this. I have tried hamering it out with a block of aluminium while rotaing the shaft after each blow. I can’t get a good angle to direct all of the force in the direction I need, and I can’t get a good bite with a pry bar as the spacing is very tight. Is a slide hamer axle removers worth purchsing? I have the hub soaked in Kroil right now as I plan to hammer it out tommorrow. Anyone with any insight into these delemas. Thanks ---
**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\ **Post date:** [June 6, 2009, 4:53am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/frozen-bearing-and-cv-shaft-removal/31478/2 "2009-06-06T04:53:15Z")
You need to put up the hammer as a first step. Pounding on a block of aluminum against the joint is not giving you a straight shot at it. This is causing the splines to cant a bit and make the joint near impossible to remove. A slide hammer helps of course, but with a good pry bar a couple of feet long and a small wooden block (say 1x2) you should be able to wedge the block in there and pop the joint right out with a sharp rap or two with an open palm. As to the hub (and keep in mind I’m not a Chrysler pro) I would think there is a snap ring there someplace to lock the hub/bearing in place. With some hubs and bearings it may be impossible to pound them out anyway and it may require a heavy duty press. I’ve run into a few hub bearings that my little 12 ton press would not even begin to budge. This meant a trip to a friend’s auto machine shop and his 50 ton unit. When one bearing in particular was groaning and the press quivering, I told him he was getting paid to get killed and I stepped myself right outside the door; just in case. ---
**Author:** ![nbpt100](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/9f8e36/32.png) [@nbpt100](https://community.cartalk.com/u/nbpt100)\ **Post date:** [June 6, 2009, 1:42pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/frozen-bearing-and-cv-shaft-removal/31478/3 "2009-06-06T13:42:43Z")
OK4450, Thanks for your reply, Like I said I have done all of this before on this exact car so this makes all the more frustrating. The bearing is is just held in place by 3 bolts and it is a slip fit into the stearing knuckle. The bolts came out no problem. I was wondering if I put a torche to it??? The knuckle would take alot of heat as it is so heavy. Thanks ---
**Author:** ![vtcodger2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/e68b1a/32.png) [@vtcodger2](https://community.cartalk.com/u/vtcodger2)\ **Post date:** [June 6, 2009, 2:20pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/frozen-bearing-and-cv-shaft-removal/31478/4 "2009-06-06T14:20:04Z")
If the end of the axle is visible in the center of the hub, how about a wheel puller? Put the arms of the puller on the hub and the center on the axle. Then push the axle out. That worked for me, the only time I tried it.