# For a BRAKES expert

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/for-a-brakes-expert/36186>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** geo, prizm, brakes\
**Created:** [September 5, 2009, 10:09pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/for-a-brakes-expert/36186 "2009-09-05T22:09:05Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 4\
**Page:** 1

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Davide](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/258eb7/32.png) [@Davide](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Davide)\
**Post date:** [September 5, 2009, 10:09pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/for-a-brakes-expert/36186/1 "2009-09-05T22:09:05Z")

</div>

I’ve been hearing a “rr-rr” rubbing noise from a rear wheel when I slowly start out on my apt.bldg. driveway, so I took my '97 Geo Prizm to my mechanic, to inspect the brakes. When I walked back to the shop later, his diagnosis: a rusty parking-brake cable.  
  
 (With the car raised about a foot, he first  
  
 rotated the rt-rear wheel–easily–& then the LEFT-rear wheel–NOT easily.) He recommended replacing both right/left cables, which would cost about $300. I was surprised at the high price & it was close to 6pm, so I didn’t ask him to explain exactly HOW a rusty parking-brake cable could cause the problem, but persuaded him to replace just the left cable (next week) and drove home.  
  
 So: 1) Is he right? Perhaps it’s just “the parking brake (which I ALWAYS use) might not be releasing completely and might be dragging on the drum”? (I’m quoting my Haynes Repair Manual on “Parking brake–adjustment”.) Why/how would a rusty cable cause the drag on the drum?  
  
 2) If rust IS the cause–and the cable(s) must be replaced–is $300 (or presumably about $150 for just one cable) a reasonable charge?

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![pleasedodgevan2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/ad7895/32.png) [@pleasedodgevan2](https://community.cartalk.com/u/pleasedodgevan2)\
**Post date:** [September 6, 2009, 3:55am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/for-a-brakes-expert/36186/2 "2009-09-06T03:55:30Z")

</div>

Because the brake is still engaged. The price is very reasonable. Replacing both cables is a good idea but not always necessary. Some people don’t want the other side to get stuck and damage that one too.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![oldschool](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e19adc/32.png) [@oldschool](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldschool)\
**Post date:** [September 6, 2009, 4:07am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/for-a-brakes-expert/36186/3 "2009-09-06T04:07:53Z")

</div>

Don’t be suprised if you get a phone call telling you that additional work is needed,he made his diagnosis without even removing the wheel.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![keith](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/keith/32/5518_2.png) [@keith](https://community.cartalk.com/u/keith)\
**Post date:** [September 8, 2009, 12:35am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/for-a-brakes-expert/36186/4 "2009-09-08T00:35:11Z")

</div>

It could be the cable, but it could be something out of position inside the drum or a bad wheel bearing. I think he should look closer, but $150 is probably good for a brake cable.