@texasas – Took car to diagnostic shop, the calipers are seized, had two opinions agree.
For the rotor purchase, I noticed I could purchase the pads and rotors as a kit (via rockauto). Is it advised to purchase them as a kit or purchase each individually? Any benefit to either?
I noticed I could purchase the pads and rotors as a kit (via rockauto).
Either is fine. It’s just easier. The calipers come with the pads and hardware kit already loaded in the caliper. If you buy them separately you have to do that process yourself. I’d buy whichever is cheaper - assuming the quality is equal.
I didn’t realize that… so for simplifying things for myself. I can purchase a rotor+pad kit for both fronts. Then rotors and calipers for the rears since the pads come with the calipers already. Is this correct?
The thing that would simplify your work would be a caliper+pads kit. Rotors+pads only matters if it saves you money, no other reason. Any good pads can work with any good rotor (ignoring exotic stuff like carbon fiber).
Just a comment on OE vs aftermarket parts. I bought aftermarket ceramic pads for a Honda replacing OE pads lasting 60,000 miles with new rotors. The ceramics have 45,000 on them now and still have 1/2 left.
Replaced pads on a Saab at 35,000 miles with ceramics and new rotors, now have 63,000 on the pads with 1/3rd left.
Don’t buy the cheap junk, by quality parts and they will perform for you.
You generally get what you pay for, especially if you don’t see advertising for that particular brand on every billboard, tv commercial and spam e-mail. Advertising costs money…
I too have gone to ceramic pads with excellent results.
11:36AM The thing that would simplify your work would be a caliper+pads kit
Sorry…that was my mistake. The Caliper and Pads where the pads are pre-loaded into the caliper will save you time. The Rotors and pads combo…Only replace the rotors if they are needed. But may times these days they are needed.
I have very mixed results with ceramic pads
let me explain . . .
When installing ceramic pads on a vehicle where the factory pads were semi-metallic, the change was a bad one
I machined the rotors . . . plenty of meat left after machining
I replaced the hardware, lubed the sliders, etc.
I installed high quality ceramic pads
And the ceramic pads were noisey . . . to the point that people would stop and stare
And the ceramic pads wore wicked grooves in the rotor
Needless to say, the next brake job, that car is getting factory semi-metallic pads again
So I have put together my cart of what I think I need for this. Just wanted to get feedback that I’m not forgetting anything so I don’t get hit with more shipping or need something when I’m working on the car.
From rockauto
Preloaded Rear Calipers:
CENTRIC Part # 14240552 Posi-Quiet Loaded Caliper Reman (Left)
CENTRIC Part # 14240551 Posi-Quiet Loaded Caliper Reman (Right)
Rotors
CENTRIC Part # 12140055 C-TEK Standard Disc (Rear) [x2]
CENTRIC Part # 12140036 C-TEK Standard Disc (Front) [x2]
Pads
CENTRIC Part # 10309140 C-TEK Ceramic Brake Pads (Front) [x2]
From RockAuto:
CENTRIC Part # 14240552; Posi-Quiet Loaded Caliper; Rear Left; Coupe; Standard trans.; EX Model; 6 speed trans.
If this exactly describes your vehicle, you should be good to go.
I use aftermarket ceramic pads on my 2005 Accord EX V6, but the OEM pads were also ceramic. I find they work quite well, and the price is $40 for 2 sets. (4 pads).
I put after market Ceramics on my '05 Camry, original was Semi-metallic. I changed the rotors too. It works fine; let me re-iterate, it works as poorly as it did before. I asked the dealer to check the brakes (it was free); they said it is working fine.
Post pics here if you get stumped, we can help.
One foreseeable problem I experienced when swapping in new rear calipers - it may throw the parking brake out of adjustment. My car was a manual and went rolling down the hill one day. Didnt leave it in gear! Ahh youth. So make sure you get that right.
Heres what I would do:
On flat ground…
Chuck the front wheels, release parking brake
Break the lugs loose on the passenger rear wheel.
Jack up the car and remove the wheel
Put a drain pan under everything
Using a line wrench (important) remove the brake hose from the caliper. If its stubborn spray some PB Blaster on it and wait a little, maybe gently tap on it. Repeat as needed. Might need to tap on the line wrench with a hammer to break it free. If really stubborn tighten and loosen a few times to work it free. Take your time and dont go hard on it.
Remove the sliding bolts on top of the caliper so you can open this and slide out the old pads
Unbolt the caliper bracket bolts (again a wrench and a hammer. Lefty loosey!)
Be mindful of the parking brake cable and how to disconnect it.
Now you can remove the rotor. I had to use an air wrench with a phillips head attachment to get these off. PB blaster and tapping are your friend. Push hard into the screw while trying to turn it as not to strip it.
Once you do this all you can reverse all steps.
New rotor goes on - spray it with brake cleaner occasionally to keep your filthy paw prints to a minimum!
Bolt on the caliper bracket
Put in new spring clips and pads
Put on new caliper.
BE SURE TO GREASE SLIDE PINS USING A HIGH TEMP BRAKE GREASE
They probably have rubber boots over them that you can pop off, grease the hardware and pop back on…
Bolt up the caliper
Reconnect brake line snugly, but not crazy tight.
Now open master cylinder cap in engine bay
Put a wrench on caliper bleeder valve
Put clear tubing over that valve, into a bottle with fresh brake fluid (make sure opposite end of tube remains submerged in fresh fluid)
Have your friend apply pressure to brake pedal and then open bleeder valve. Air will come out, his foot will hit the floor, close bleeder valve, have him pump up and re-hold pressure on pedal. Open bleeder and more will come out. Do this sequence until no air bubbles are seen in clear tube, and fluid looks reasonably clear. MAKE SURE to keep topping off the master cylinder with fresh fluid each wheel you do and periodically check it through the process.
When you’ve done that tighten up bleeder nice and snug and have the friend apply pressure while you check the hose or brake line for leaks. If thats good bolt up that wheel and move on to the driver side rear. Repeat. Then do you brakes on the front passenger and finally the front driver.
You’ll have questions so just come back and post up. Give yourself a day to do this at your own pace, and you might need a trip or two to the parts store so have another ride handy.
Sorry thats terribly wordy and I spaced things out but when typing on a mobile phone the forum never keeps my spacing
I recommend using the Centric premium disc instead of the standard one.
I can see no reason to replace those screws. If someone has a GOOD reason I would like to be enlightened. I have always considered them the disc brake equivalent of the push on clips that used to hold the drum on on the assembly line.
what screws oldtimer?
I edited my opening post with the following… “I forgot to mention that this vehicle is mostly used for local driving only. On rare occasions it will take drives for an hour or more, but only rarely. This plays a factor in my parts selection, I don’t need anything for performance. Mostly whatever can get me another 30k on the car at least.”
@Fender1325 :: I was actually gonna make a post about whether I should be bleeding the brakes or not, and if it was needed for only the caliper replacement or all 4. I gather from your post I will have to bleed all 4. Thanks for the description, I will start from the passenger rear when I do the job and follow the path you suggested. Just curious though, what is the reason for that particular order? Is it based on the path of the lines?
You start with the longest line first.