# Failed inspection please help **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** cr-v, honda\ **Created:** [February 8, 2020, 3:50am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089 "2020-02-08T03:50:04Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 9\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Ajaxspeaks\_161587](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/d07c76/32.png) [@Ajaxspeaks\_161587](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ajaxspeaks_161587)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2020, 3:50am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089/1 "2020-02-08T03:50:04Z")
Today I failed inspection because the catalytic converter, oxygen sensors, and epvporative system came up as ‘NOT READY’ How do I diagnosed what I need to chage? I can do the work my self but don’t know what I need to do. I figure I should change the oxygen sensor. But would I need to change the catalytic converter as well? There are no lights on in the dash I have changed the oil and driven it about 1000 miles since I got in December. ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2020, 3:54am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089/2 "2020-02-08T03:54:44Z")
There may not be any problem with your car at all. Your car’s computer tests the emissions components as a routine part of its job. “Not ready” means the battery has been disconnected, which causes the computer to have to retest all the emissions components again. The computer is saying it hasn’t had time to do that yet. You’ll have to drive the car some more and in some varied conditions, and eventually all the readiness tests will complete and they’ll be no “Not ready’s”. At that point either you’ll pass or at least you’ll know why. ---
**Author:** ![Ajaxspeaks\_161587](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/d07c76/32.png) [@Ajaxspeaks\_161587](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ajaxspeaks_161587)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2020, 3:57am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089/3 "2020-02-08T03:57:35Z")
This is what I thought last time I failed, but this time I’m sure the battery wasn’t disconnected. And I drove it about 20 miles before taking it in ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2020, 4:00am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089/4 "2020-02-08T04:00:35Z")
hmmm … I guess the next thing to check is the battery connections are clean and tight, and the fuse that powers the computer is working correctly. A bad connection can briefly disconnect the computer when you go over a bump, which would cause the readiness monitors to have to start over again. A problem atic igntion switch could cause that too. Do you have a lot of keys etc dangling on the key chain? The only way I’m aware of that could reset the readiness monitors is by disconneting the battery, or with a scan tool . Otherwise the readiness monitors are always complete. Complete doesn’t mean it would pass of course. It could be complete and fail. ---
**Author:** ![Ajaxspeaks\_161587](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/d07c76/32.png) [@Ajaxspeaks\_161587](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ajaxspeaks_161587)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2020, 4:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089/5 "2020-02-08T04:05:13Z")
I will definitely check the battery, only a small key chain. Thank you for the info. ---
**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2020, 4:09am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089/6 "2020-02-08T04:09:21Z")
> [@Ajaxspeaks\_161587](#): > > And I drove it about 20 miles before taking it in That is not much driving for a customer to be able to complete the monitors, how many trips were involved? I have had customers drive for two weeks and fail to complete any of the monitors, I can usually complete most monitors in 5 miles but I have experience with drive cycles. ---
**Author:** ![Ajaxspeaks\_161587](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/d07c76/32.png) [@Ajaxspeaks\_161587](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ajaxspeaks_161587)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2020, 4:29am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089/7 "2020-02-08T04:29:05Z")
It was just one I drove from my dad’s house in NY directly to the MVC in NJ ---
**Author:** ![It\_s-Me](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/it_s-me/32/12660_2.png) [@It\_s-Me](https://community.cartalk.com/u/It_s-Me)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2020, 1:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089/8 "2020-02-08T13:41:52Z")
Typical Honda drive cycle > [@](#): > > Here is a typical Honda drive cycle. Driving your Honda in the manner below should make the required Emission Monitors “Ready”. Before you start the Drive Cycle make sure your Honda’s fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4, otherwise the EVAP test won’t run. Make sure to obey all traffic laws while performing the drive cycle. > > 1. Begin by idling the engine while 2 1/2 minutes. Next idle for another 2 1/2 minutes with the A/C compressor and rear defroster on and while the transmission is in Drive (D); only of automatic transmission. This part of the drive cycle checks the oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge system. > > 2. Turn the A/C compressor off and rear window defroster off and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and EVAP canister purge. > > 3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for 3 minutes. The computer will now be testing the EGR system, air injection pump, O2 sensors and canister purge. > > 4. Decelerate to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch). Once again the computer system will check EGR and purge functions. > > 5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system will look for misfires, fuel trim and EVAP purge. > > 6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for 5 minutes. Catalytic converter efficiency, EGR flow, ignition misfire, fuel trim, EVAP system and oxygen sensors operation will now be checked. > > 7. Decelerate to a stop without braking (or depressing clutch). The OBDII system will complete the drive cycle at this point. > > We recommend completing this drive cycle at least twice in order to ensure all required parameters have been met. ---
**Author:** ![old\_mopar\_guy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/6bbea6/32.png) [@old\_mopar\_guy](https://community.cartalk.com/u/old_mopar_guy)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2020, 2:35pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/failed-inspection-please-help/158089/9 "2020-02-08T14:35:33Z")
20 miles may not be enough. Google Honda CR-V drive cycle and find out how many miles you need to drive and at what speeds.