That residue you mentioned, it’s a bit hard to remove. It is as if something melted, I thought it was something inside the spark plug boot.
I was also thinking maybe the seals in the valve cover are starting to leak. The plugs seem to be “oily”. Don’t think this is normal at all. I can see a tiny bit of oily residue around the holes where the plugs go. The boots are dry though…
Okay, I went to the car and plugged the OBD scanner… but my scanners are cheap so I don’t think they are of any help. I don’t see any codes.
I revved the engine on neutral to see if I can get it to shake. It does shake at 2500 rpm but not as violently as when you drive on steep hills.
This car apparently has 4 mounts, I only replaced the passenger side and the front lower mount. Maybe the MTX mount is worn too… There is a rear mount which is a bit hard to see. I did have the vehicle on the lift but I can’t see cracks on that rear mount. Again, it is a bit hard to see =/
If the problem is with bearings, flywheels, or anything related to the transmission itself… aren’t you suppose to hear weird noises? There is none.
Yes, that is usually the case. Only a good mechanic with the car in front of them could offer anything other than an educated guess of course, but I’m thinking this is a problem of some sort with the ignition system. Either that or poor compression in one or more cylinders. What I’d do with that problem, I’d start off by measuring the compression in all cylinders. Do both a wet and dry compression test. If that tested ok, I’d replace the easy stuff in the ignition system: spark plugs, high voltage spark plug wires. I think your system is configured w/2 coils, and each coil fits over one spark plug, and has a high voltage wire to the other spark plug. Is that right? If so, replace both of the high voltage wires. Then test the resistance of the two coils, make sure the primary and secondary resistances are correct. It’s possible the coil resistances test ok, but they have problems in use. That’s easiest tested by the kind of equipment a shop has. If you don’t want to go the shop route, I’d just replace the coils. If that still doesn’t fix the problem, check the base ignition timing with a timing light, make sure it advances w/rpm. Next, visually check for problems at both the cam and crank position sensors. There’s probably a gap between the sensor and what it senses that has to be measured also.
If you still got the same problem, well at least your ignition system is working … lol … so next up would be the fuel and air systems, fuel pressure, maf, and fuel trims.
I didn’t have time to go and rent a lift today but I just found the transmission covered in oil, though I am not sure where it is coming from. I thought it was residual gear oil from a leak I had before, until I sprayed degreaser and found today the leak is probably coming from the top in the very end of the transmission in this cover here:
Or maybe I am wrong but everything else seems clean. I had a mechanic “fix” the previous leak. He replaced both axles and the “wheel seal” I am not sure it this is the seal inside the axle or what. The leaks went away so I thought okay that’s fixed. Now I find this…
When I started the car I noticed noise coming from where it seems to be the transmission. It goes away little by little when the engine is getting warmed up. If you push on the clutch pedal the noise goes away instantly. It sounds like something is loose, and it’s either spinning or rattling, or water gurgling through a plastic hose. That’s the best way I can describe it. I also believe the sound changes as you apply some gas in neutral, but it’s difficult to hear with the engine noise.
I uploaded the video on Youtube. Sound quality may not be the best but I think it is better than words. I don’t think there is need to for a compression test. =(
Transmission noise? Part 1
Transmission noise goes away when clutch is pressed.
Time to find a mechanic.
Might be the clutch throw-out bearing like Tester mentioned above. If so, good news, as it is replaced as part of a normal clutch job. That part isn’t lubed by the transmission gear oil, so any the gear oil leaks would not be related. It could be caused something inside the transmission too. Suggest to get the sound assessed by a knowledgeable shop who has expertise in manual transmissions.
The puzzling thing is that a release bearing problem doesn’t usually show up during idling in neutral with foot off the clutch pedal. And the type of symptom a faulty release bearing produces wouldn’t usually be the car shaking. Weird noises, and maybe a slight vibration during engagement/disengagement.
This link might be helpful
