With tires looking like that, I’d make an immediate plan to get them replaced, no matter if they’re the most expensive Michelins with lots of tread depth
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The sudsy water will work, but you have to give it time. For the one that you have to add air to regularly, especially, get the soapy water onto it/them. And then walk away for 10 mins or so. Come back and look for what is still bubbling. (The trick being that it could be an interior bead, or, if a nail/screw on the part of the tire that’s on the ground).
I usually take an empty spray bottle with a little dish soap and water (or, really any cleaner that makes for suds), spray things down and then wait… If you have an identifiable leak it’s quite obvious.
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This is a baffling statement. Why would you expect a tire to leak if the recommended pressure for the car is 32 PSI and the maximum pressure for the tire is 42 PSI?
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I have seen many times with a corroded wheel bead that the higher the pressure the slower the leak, meaning that the higher air pressure pushes the tire bead harder against the wheel bead slowing the leak down, and of course as the pressure leaks out of the tire the less pressure pushing against the bead the faster the leak…
I have also seen a tire with a nail/screw in it that would ONLY leak when it was directly under the tire against the ground, the no visible sign of the object in the tire, pain in the but to find, will not leak without the weight of the vehicle being on it, no leaks found and go park it and a little later the tire is flat WTH?? In those cases you have to put 60+psi (no weather cracking) in it to force the leak…
But something tells me neither of those is what the OP meant by his/her statement… lol
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One option is Goss Garage 2, run by a long time partner of Pat Goss at the original shop. As you may know, Pat Goss was the expert mechanic on Motorweek before his death. Goss Garage 2 is in Gambrills and that can’t be too far from you. I’m not personally familiar with this shop, but it has a good pedigree. I’m sure it’s not cheap either, good work rarely is. I used to work in Beltsville and Greenbelt, but the shops I was familiar with aren’t there anymore.
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I would not reccomend a shop to Grunes . He thinks Toyotas are expensive to repair - does not like modern day equipment on vehicles - and I don’t think he would be happy no matter what the price was or thework done.
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Do old tires catastrophically fail? Or just go flat and need replaced as they fail?
Is the vehicle driven only on surface streets, not at highway and Interstates speeds? If so, I would try to get as many miles out of them as I could.
If one finally fails due to age, then all should be replaced.
Many years ago I found a used smaller tire and made it a spare.
Less weight and more room in the trunk.
When vehicle manufacturer specifies 35 psi, I.nflate to 45 to save fuel.
45 PSI would exceed the maximum safe limit of most normal car tires that I’ve run into.
Wonder if the Moderators could put a warning label on any post by RG that it is nonsence or just plain wrong?
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Tester
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This drivel again. 45psi IS NOT SAFE. You are a danger to yourself and everyone around you. Not to mention the increase wear in tires. As usual, you haven’t a clue.
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When the center of your tire tread wears out early and you have to replace the tires before it would otherwise have been necessary, how much of that fuel savings are you giving back?
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He posted this drivel years ago and then just last year he said he doesn’t inflate his tires like that anymore. I can’t keep up with his drivel and/or lies
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That is why I keep saying he and others like him are Court Jesters and for entertainment purposes only…
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“45 PSI would exceed the maximum safe limit of most normal car tires that I’ve run into”
Understood
Tire sidewall reads: Max Pressure 51 PSI
At the free regular tire rotations DiscounTire™ flunkies say 10 psi above vehicle placard is fine.
Over the life of the tires I may save a whole $2.11 in gasoline!
YES!!
Old tires catastrophically fail at highway speeds and suburban speeds.. 35 to 45 mph.
And you have posted how often you exceed the speed limit on tissue runs.
Do ya feel lucky, punk?
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“ Tires have a recommended PSI rating, which is the maximum PSI the tire can handle”. Direct quote from Tire Agent article.
I think Tire Agent needs to edit the article. Recommended pressure is set by the vehicle manufacturer! My truck—vehicle mfg: 35 PSI, tire mfg **maximum ** 52 PSI !! 52 PSI is not the **recommended ** pressure.
Is it any wonder people get confused? To add to this for many of us, our first experience with tire inflation are bicycle tires, which I have gone by the pressure on the tire.
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I have had a number of tires fail or blow out for various reasons. Even a bike tire and a trailer tire. I just have never had any problem with control. Maybe just lucky.
I got a load of sand on my new trailer. I hadn’t upgraded the tires, springs and axle yet. The guy loaded me up with 3000# instead of 2000#. Made it only half way home before the tire blew. Big noise. I had to run and rent a Jack to be able to lift it and change tires. I was young and after that paid attention to how much they loaded me up with.
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That is a myth based on the wear characteristics of bias ply tires, radial tires don’t flex in that manner with increased pressure. I have inspected tires on many Lexus RX350’s, tires last longer on vehicles with tire pressure greater than 40 psi.
Lexus recommends increasing the tire pressure by 5 or 8 psi (depending on tire size) for high-speed driving. Drive at high speeds with tires inflated to base pressure is a greater hazard than it is increasing pressures by 10 psi.
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If they do fail, it’s often catastrophically.
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